IF you replace the fuse and it doesn't blow immediately, it suggests the pump may not be at fault.
Reason - if the pump was faulty (shortaged/high current draw), I don't if you would even get the car to move.
It sounds as if a wire (powered thru the fuel pump fuse) is grounding/shorting to ground and the excessive current draw blows the fuse.
Did you (or someone else) have this problem before the pump was replaced?
If not, I would check the electrical connector for debris/FOD that could cause a short. And while the lectrical connector is off/removed, you should check the fuel pump resistance to verify it it in range and also it isn't shorted.
If the car had quitting problems before the new fuel pump, someone replaced the wrong part. Another option would be to remove the fuel pump harness connector, hook your voltmeter to the connector pins for the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump fuse, switch the ignition to ON and start wiggling the wiring harness between the tank and the fuse block and all other fuel pump fuse powered harness sections to see if and when the fuse blows witht he fuel pump out of the equation.
Anybody have a simpler toruble shooting fix for Becky?