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The wiring from the ASD relay back to the pump is exposed to the elements. Good chance a wire ahs rubbed through somewhere and is shorting out. You can either hand-over-hand it to find and fix the short, or you can go through and completely replace the wiring...
Best of luck!
1995 Plymouth Neon
2006 Mazda5 Sport
I know nothing about cars or engines, at least according to Neon2.0T. Must be true then!
I know there are 3 wires going into the pump itself, do all the three wires run all the way to the junction box behind the batterey? What colours are the 3 wires running from the pump and do they run under the car or do they run thru the interior of the car??
the wires run through the inside of the car next to the door sin and then into the back seat...the main wire for the fuel pump is green with orange...what you should start doing is tracing the wire back from the floor by the kick panel to the gromet where it goes out to the pump..this problem happened a while ago to one of my neons and i found that the wire was broken righ by the trunk release...then a few weeks ago it happened to my other car and i traced the wire back, but there was no problem. then i started unplugging sensors and found out that it was blowing the fuse because two wires on the downstream o2 sensor were touching eachother..there are alot of sensors that run from the same fuse so that might have sumthing to do with it...
You have a 1998 model which is almost identical in wiring (with a few minor changes) to a 1995 model, so the post the the spud gave below most likely also applies to you. Check the wires to the pump and check the wires to both O2 sensors for wear because if they short out, it will blow the fuse.
If you haven't found the issue yet, consider the following.
If you can, unplug the wiring from the fuel pump. Put a new fuse in and switch ignition on. Did the fuse blow? If it still blew, it's in the wiring before the pump as previously suggested.
if the fuse did not blow, check the correct pair (one pair or one wire will be for the fuel gauge) of terminals on the pump and check for resistance. If outside of the spec range, the pump is mostly at fault
i have a 98 plymouth neon i just bought. i drove it 10 miles n the fuel pump fuse blew. after that every quarter mile it would blow through another fuse. i have a new fuel pump. im lost on what could be goin on. can anyone give me some advice?
IF you replace the fuse and it doesn't blow immediately, it suggests the pump may not be at fault.
Reason - if the pump was faulty (shortaged/high current draw), I don't if you would even get the car to move.
It sounds as if a wire (powered thru the fuel pump fuse) is grounding/shorting to ground and the excessive current draw blows the fuse.
Did you (or someone else) have this problem before the pump was replaced?
If not, I would check the electrical connector for debris/FOD that could cause a short. And while the lectrical connector is off/removed, you should check the fuel pump resistance to verify it it in range and also it isn't shorted.
If the car had quitting problems before the new fuel pump, someone replaced the wrong part. Another option would be to remove the fuel pump harness connector, hook your voltmeter to the connector pins for the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump fuse, switch the ignition to ON and start wiggling the wiring harness between the tank and the fuse block and all other fuel pump fuse powered harness sections to see if and when the fuse blows witht he fuel pump out of the equation.
Anybody have a simpler toruble shooting fix for Becky?