ground locations
#1
ground locations
Hello, this is my first post. I'm new to the forum.
I've recently aquired a (not running) 1998 neon sohc/auto. There is no spark or injector pulse. although both have voltage supplied they have no pulsing ground so they do not fire.
The pcm, crank sensor and cam sensor have all been replaced. the fuses and relays all test good.
I suspect there may be missing ground straps which are causing the issues. I need to know where to look for the engine and chassis ground.
I used to to do a lot of wrenching but I'm kinda rusty and unfamiliar with this car so thanks in advance for any help.
I've recently aquired a (not running) 1998 neon sohc/auto. There is no spark or injector pulse. although both have voltage supplied they have no pulsing ground so they do not fire.
The pcm, crank sensor and cam sensor have all been replaced. the fuses and relays all test good.
I suspect there may be missing ground straps which are causing the issues. I need to know where to look for the engine and chassis ground.
I used to to do a lot of wrenching but I'm kinda rusty and unfamiliar with this car so thanks in advance for any help.
#2
This should help...
Originally Posted by 98NeonSedan
You cant miss this one, it connects the chassis to the battery (-) terminal:
This one can go to just about any place on the engine, but the coil pack bolt is pretty common. Engine block to chassis ground
This one is pretty well hidden and is the chassis to transaxle ground.
And this one can only be seen clearly from underneath unless the fans are out. It connects the battery (-) terminal to the engine block
Lastly here is the spot on the engine wiring harness that is very likely to rub bare and ground out, causing all sorts of weird behavior.
This one can go to just about any place on the engine, but the coil pack bolt is pretty common. Engine block to chassis ground
This one is pretty well hidden and is the chassis to transaxle ground.
And this one can only be seen clearly from underneath unless the fans are out. It connects the battery (-) terminal to the engine block
Lastly here is the spot on the engine wiring harness that is very likely to rub bare and ground out, causing all sorts of weird behavior.
#3
#5
Thanks for those pics and info! I was having an issue with a supposedly weak starter motor on my '96 sport coupe. Went through all kinds of troubleshooting. Decided to look up ground locations to see if I was missing anything. The chassis to engine strap on the rear passenger side seen here was mislocated:
It was attached to one of the exhaust manifold to cat pipe bolts. It's been like that since I can remember (was probably reattached there many years ago during a repair or something). Hooked it up to a coil pack bolt and the starter seems to be turning the engine over much quicker. I'll be keeping an eye on it to make sure.
Electrical gremlins can be quite a pain in the ***!
It was attached to one of the exhaust manifold to cat pipe bolts. It's been like that since I can remember (was probably reattached there many years ago during a repair or something). Hooked it up to a coil pack bolt and the starter seems to be turning the engine over much quicker. I'll be keeping an eye on it to make sure.
Electrical gremlins can be quite a pain in the ***!
#7
Thanks for those pics and info! I was having an issue with a supposedly weak starter motor on my '96 sport coupe. Went through all kinds of troubleshooting. Decided to look up ground locations to see if I was missing anything. The chassis to engine strap on the rear passenger side seen here was mislocated:
It was attached to one of the exhaust manifold to cat pipe bolts. It's been like that since I can remember (was probably reattached there many years ago during a repair or something). Hooked it up to a coil pack bolt and the starter seems to be turning the engine over much quicker. I'll be keeping an eye on it to make sure.
Electrical gremlins can be quite a pain in the ***!
It was attached to one of the exhaust manifold to cat pipe bolts. It's been like that since I can remember (was probably reattached there many years ago during a repair or something). Hooked it up to a coil pack bolt and the starter seems to be turning the engine over much quicker. I'll be keeping an eye on it to make sure.
Electrical gremlins can be quite a pain in the ***!
Mine was connected to the air filter assembly metal holder, that holds it to the back of the engine. Will relocated it to the coil pack and see if my electrical issues improve.
Trending Topics
#9
Make sure you sand any paint, dirt, and clean the oil off of the area where the wire will be touching the metal for the best connection possible.
To prevent rust from destroying the connection in the future, grab a can of clear coat spray paint and paint over the completed connection to seal it off from the environment.
(The connection must be tight and unable to wiggle around for this to work properly. That means bolted tightly to the chassis. No sheet metal screws cause those work their way loose over time. Must be on a torqued threaded bolt.)