i dont know where u got that but its wrong
it has been updated since then
b/c 2.4 turbo motor u can not torque it that way u will boost up and and over time to replace
the one u have was made in 1998 thats old thats y the neons where blowin head gaskits right and left
I would like to see where the 100ft/lb + 1/4 came from. At those kind of torques I would expect pulled threads and stretched bolts. Plus. The problem with the original Neon’s was a design flaw in the width of the block casting at the rear left side of the engine. TSB posted earlier addresses this problem. Plus, we’re discussing a 2.0L DOHC not a 2.4 turbo.
BTW the head bolts as noted below are “Torque-to-Yield” which means that final ¼ turn actually stretches the bolt to produce the proper final torque. Over torque on Torque-to-Yield bolts may result in a higher initial torque but, also over stretches and weakens the bolts. In fact after several engine heat and cool cycles the final torque may actually be less.
Quote from the attached link.
Clean and inspect all the head bolt threads in the block. This engine uses torque-to-yield head bolts. Most experts recommend replacing the head bolts with new ones because the old ones stretch when they are tightened down, which increases the risk of breakage if they are reused. Lightly oil the threads on all the head bolts before they are installed. The four short head bolts go in the corners.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the following order:
Tighten all center bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten all center bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft.-lbs.).
Retighten all bolts a second time to the same specifications in step 4 to double-check torque.
Finish by tightening all bolts an additional 1/4 turn.[/ol]