HELP I have a 1997 neon dohc that I am trying to get running. The head was warped so I had it redone. Now I'm not sure how to set the cams to the proper position for the timing. Any advice would be appreciated. Also anyone know what the proper torque is for the head bolts?

 

Tighten the head bolts in stages. (as per Haynes manual)

10—6—2—3—7
rear
9—5—1—4—8

SOHC
stage 1-- 25 ft/lb
stage 2-- 50 ft/lb
stage 3-- 50 ft/lb
stage 4-- tighten an additional (ÂĽ) turn

DOHC
stage 1-- Bolts 1through 6 -- 25 ft/lb, bolts 7 through 10 -- 20 ft/lb
stage 2-- Bolts 1through 6 -- 50 ft/lb, bolts 7 through 10 -- 20 ft/lb
stage 3-- Bolts 1through 6 -- 50 ft/lb, bolts 7 through 10 -- 20 ft/lb
stage 4—tighten an additional (¼) turn

Align the two camshaft sprockets so that both the timing marks are in the center facing each other and in line with the centerline of the camshafts and the Crankshaft at top dead center.

 

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of what the timing marks look like? I do not see any marks for the cams.

 

Honestly...Your best bet is to get a Haynes manual from the parts store for about $15.00 but, There is a single notch on each one of the cam gears on the outside ring (just below the teeth) these need to face each other and align so that when you take a ruler from the center of the cam bolt to the center of the other cam bolt they point toward each other on the rulers edge. On the lower gear (crank) there is a groove on the outside ring (below the teeth) This needs to line up with the triangle shaped mark on the block. There are sometimes a paint mark on the outside ring...be sure you don't use that. There is a grove cut into the ring. Use carb. cleaner. Once these are aligned...before belt install...Rotate the crank shaft counterclockwise by 3 teeth. Then rotate the crankshaft clockwise to 1/2 tooth (between teeth).
Place the belt onto the crank sprocket (maintain tension) then to the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, right cam sprocket. left cam sprocket then to tensioner assembly. To take the slack out of the belt, rotate the crank clockwise the 1/2 tooth and the marks should line up at the crank and the sprockets. After compressing the tensioner pin with a vise and placing a small nail or small allen wrench into the hole on the top, install the tensioner. place a torque wrench on the center bolt of the tensioner pulley and apply 250 inch-lbs. With torque applied, move the tensioner up against the pulley bracket and tighten the tensioner. Pull the nail or allen wrench out of the tensioner. The timing belt tension is right when the nail/whench can be withdrawn and reinserted easily.
With the crank bolt, turn the crank clockwise 2 full revolutions until the marks on the crank line up again. recheck the cam marks and if good....then bolt it back together. If not....do it all again.

 

Also anyone know what the proper torque is for the head bolts?
ya it 100ft/lb and the 1/4 of a turn
start in the middle two and the go right two bolt then to left two back in forth
thats how we do it at the dealer ship and the head has a mark on it and so does the cam gear

 

You just reminded me why I don't trust a "dealership" to work on my vehicles!!!
Here's the updated Dodge specs.and it ain't no 100 ft/lbs.
[align=left]



SUBJECT: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) Head Gasket Installation Procedures

NO: 09-05-98

GROUP: Engine

DATE: Nov. 6,1998

MODELS:
1995 - 1999 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze
1996 - 1999 (JX) Sebring Convertible
1996 - 1999 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1995 - 1999 (PL) Neon
1997 - 1999 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (international Market)
NOTE: THIS INFORMATION APPLIES TO MODELS WITH A 2.0L SOHC/DOHC OR 2.4L ENGINE.

DISCUSSION:
A new Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gasket has been developed and is being implemented into production vehicles. Additionally, it has been approved for service applications.
This new gasket will provide superior sealing characteristics, but will require extra care in its installation where a composite gasket was previously in place. The following steps will assist service technicians in the proper installation of this MLS gasket.
CAUTION: ALUMINUM ENGINE COMPONENTS ARE VERY SUSCEPTIBLE TO METAL TRANSFER AND SURFACE DAMAGE WHEN OLD GASKET MATERIAL IS REMOVED FROM THEM. EXERCISE EXTREME CARE WHEN CLEANING THESE COMPONENTS. THE MLS GASKET CANNOT PROPERLY SEAL IF GOUGING OF THE SURFACES, METAL TRANSFER HAS TAKEN PLACE, OR COMPOSITE GASKET MATERIAL IS LEFT ON THE HEAD OR BLOCK SURFACES.

DIAGNOSIS:

PARTS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

1 5014127AA Package, Head Gasket.1995 - 1999 2.0L SOHC (includes Head Gasket & Instruction Sheet)
1 5014131 AA Package, Head Gasket.1995 - 1999 2.0L SOHC (includes Head Gasket & Instruction Sheet)
1 5014173AA Package, Head Gasket 2.4L (includes Head Gasket & Instruction Sheet)
1 5014132AA Package, Upper Gasket 1995 2.OL SOHC (includes following seals/gaskets- cam sensor, cam front, head, valve cover, spark plug tube, EGR - cover/tube/flange, intake manifold, throttle body & instruction sheet)
1 5014133AA Package, Upper Gasket 1996 - 1999 2.0L- SOHC (includes following seals/gaskets- cam sensor, cam front, head, valve cover, spark plug tube, EGR - cover/tube/flange, intake manifold, throttle body & instruction sheet)
1 5014134AA Package, Upper Gasket 1995 - 1998 2.0L- DQHC (includes following seals/gaskets- cam sensor, cam front, head, valve cover, spark plug tube, EGR - cover/flange, intake manifold, exhaust manifold & instruction sheet)
1 5014136AA Package, Upper Gasket 2.4L (includes following seals/gaskets- cam front, head, valve cover, spark plug tube, intake manifold, exhaust manifold & instruction sheet)
1 04318035 Sealant, Aerosol Gasket
AR NPN Solvent
1 NPN Plastic/Wooden Scraper
AR(1) 07528 2", 3M Roloc Bristle Disk White (for aluminum engine surfaces)
AR(1) 07525 2", 3M Roloc Bristle Disk Yellow (aluminum/cast iron/steel surfaces)
1 05539 2", 3M Roloc Bristle Disk Arbor
1 NPN Drill Motor


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin explains the proper procedures for preparing head/block surfaces for MLS gasket installation.

1 . Following service manual procedures, remove the head.
2. Remove as much of the loose composite gasket material with a plastic or wooden scraper.
NOTE: PRIOR TO ADDITIONAL CLEANING, INSPECT THE COOLING PASSAGES OF THE HEAD. REPLACEMENT OF THE HEAD MAY BE REQUIRED IF PITTING/EROSION HAS TAKEN PLACE THAT WILL COMPROMISE THE SEALING SURFACES AROUND THE PASSAGES.
3. Cover coolant and oil passages and apply solvent or a commercially available gasket cleaner to the head/block surfaces. Allow the solvent to soften the remaining composite gasket residue.
4. Using a plastic or wooden scraper, scrape any large amounts of gasket residue from the surfaces. If necessary, apply additional solvent/gasket remover to ease removal.
5. If additional cleaning is needed, use a drill motor and 3M roloc bristle disc p/n 07528 (white) carefully remove remaining gasket material from head/block
NOTE: IF DIFFICULT TO REMOVE RESIDUE IS LEFT, THE YELLOW ROLOC BRISTLE DISK 3M P/N 07525 CAN BE USED. USE EXTREME CARE WHEN POWER CLEANING ALUMINUM SURFACES. EXCESS CLEANING PRESSURE OR HIGH RPM CAN CAUSE ALUMINUM TRANSFER.
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any composite gasket residue. Carefully remove remaining material.
7. The head and block must be checked for flatness. Follow service manual procedures/specifications where applicable. Machine or replace components as necessary.
8. Spray both sides of the MLS gasket with a coat of MOPAR spray gasket sealant p/n 04318035.
9. Re-assemble the engine as outlined in the appropriate service manual. Pay particular attention to head bolt torque and torquing procedures. (Refer to figure 1)
CAUTION: THE 2.0L DOHC CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE AND TORQUING PROCEDURE HAS CHANGED FOR THE MLS GASKET. THE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS AND PROCEDURES FOR THE 2.OL DOHC MUST BE CHANGED AS FOLLOWS: ALL HEAD BOLTS SHOULD BE OILED PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY, THE FOUR SHORT BOLTS ARE INSTALLED IN THE CORNER HOLES. TORQUE SEQUENCE IS SHOWN IN FIGURE 1.
1. TORQUE ALL CENTER BOLTS TO 34 NM (25 FT LBS.), TORQUE THE 4 CORNER BOLTS TO 27 NM (20 FT LBS.).
2. TORQUE ALL CENTER BOLTS TO 68 NM (50 FT LBS.), TORQUE THE 4 CORNER BOLTS TO 47 NM (35 FT LBS.).
3. RE-TORQUE ALL CENTER BOLTS TO 68 NM (50 FT LBS.), TORQUE THE 4 CORNER BOLTS TO 47 NM (35 FT LBS.).
4. TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS IN THE SPECIFIED SEQUENCE AN ADDITIONAL 900 (1/4 TURN).

10. Be sure to install a new cam sensor seal on all engine applications.
NOTE: A NEW CAM SENSOR SEAL MUST BE INSTALLED DURING THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE. OIL SEEPAGE FROM THIS SEAL CAN BE MISINTERPRETED AS A HEAD GASKET LEAK.

POLICY: Information Only[/align]

 

i dont know where u got that but its wrong
it has been updated since then
b/c 2.4 turbo motor u can not torque it that way u will boost up and and over time to replace
the one u have was made in 1998 thats old thats y the neons where blowin head gaskits right and left

 

I would say he got that from a TSB which is also supported by www.allpar.com, www.autozone.com, the Haynes manual, and Alldata. Where did your information come from? Also, Neons only have one head gaskEt, not a right and left.

 

Thanks I got it running

 

I would like to see where the 100ft/lb + 1/4 came from. At those kind of torques I would expect pulled threads and stretched bolts. Plus. The problem with the original Neon’s was a design flaw in the width of the block casting at the rear left side of the engine. TSB posted earlier addresses this problem. Plus, we’re discussing a 2.0L DOHC not a 2.4 turbo.

BTW the head bolts as noted below are “Torque-to-Yield” which means that final ¼ turn actually stretches the bolt to produce the proper final torque. Over torque on Torque-to-Yield bolts may result in a higher initial torque but, also over stretches and weakens the bolts. In fact after several engine heat and cool cycles the final torque may actually be less.

Quote from the attached link.

Clean and inspect all the head bolt threads in the block. This engine uses torque-to-yield head bolts. Most experts recommend replacing the head bolts with new ones because the old ones stretch when they are tightened down, which increases the risk of breakage if they are reused. Lightly oil the threads on all the head bolts before they are installed. The four short head bolts go in the corners.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the following order:

Tighten all center bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten all center bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft.-lbs.).
Retighten all bolts a second time to the same specifications in step 4 to double-check torque.
Finish by tightening all bolts an additional 1/4 turn.[/ol]
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us60426.htm