So rather than making a new thread for every single little issue I have, I am making this thread that shall encompass all of my problems with my 76 D200 project truck.
Today I got bored and decided to go wire-hunting...
This is what I ended up pulling out of the dash while trying to figure out what went where for the radio.
Pretty explanitory: anchient Sharp radio that doesn't work...at all.
Random BS wiring not pulled out yet, and random white wire with male connector
All that blue wiring shown in the first picture pulled out..SURPRISE! It's white. Damnit.
Picture of holes drilled in plastic trim-thing next to the passengerside jump seat, there IS the same on the driver's side...I am guessing there WAS speakers there.
And it looks funky because I had my flashlight on it. lol
I also made a video explaining stuff better, I'm prolly gonna make a photobucket account and host it from there.
I think what I'll do is when we replace the dash bezel, I'm going to see if I can replace the radio and install some speakers, totally bypassing the factory single speaker.
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Since head unit is pretty old, the wire harness coming off of it is pretty messed up, and the single tiny factory speaker is barely hanging on, I'm going to assume stuff is not working. lol The factory speaker also has a little screen on it that's torn, so I am wondering if the speaker is blown too.
Nothing was hooked up at all. Like zero, nothing. It all was either torn out and put back or fell apart.
i would still test it. what the worst thing that can happen? ground the body of the stereo and power the red wire. maybe it might surprise you. you can just apply 1.5volts to the speaker wires. if it make any noise at all it should still work. i have used some pretty bad speakers before. i even had one that had sat outside for years. cones was completely gone and looked nasty but it still worked.
I just looked through my first couple of pictures again and traced a wire that was single, possibly coming off the red wire on the headunit...that wire has a flat connector on the end. The first picture I posted has two wires that I have no clue where they go, one orange, on red. The red one has a connector on it that might accept a flat blade connector. WHAT IF! that is the factory power wire? if that's the case, I could run some wire from the radio, cut out all the crap that is rednecked, and fix the wiring going to the factory speaker. What do you think?
could be. if you have a multi meter you could test them. if you don't have a multi meter you could use a test light to make sure they are positive and negative. may need to have the key in the run or accessories position to see power at the wires.
something else you may want to look into electrical wise if you have not already.
The 60s - early 70s ammeters themselves were reliable pieces, it was the wiring that was usually to blame. If you look any service manual of the era, you’ll see that Chrysler was well aware of the problem - in fact, police, taxi, and fleet vehicles, whose electrical loads were typically quite high (and which vehicles typically had a “fatter” alternator) had the two charging-circuit conductors removed from the bulkhead connector, and its woefully-inadequate 1/4-inch Sta-Kon connectors, and run directly through the firewall (with a simple rubber grommet). If you’ve experienced firewall connector problems, you should consider this mod as an option.
The second plan is to convert to the ‘80s-‘90s style wiring. Simply connect the alternator output stud, via some serious gauge wire (matched to your alternator’s output specs) to the battery stud on the starter relay. But be absolutely sure you splice in an appropriate length of fusible-link wire into this new conductor! Here’s what gauges to shoot for:
Alternator output rating Wire gauge Fusible Link
Under 50 Ampere....................12 ..... 16
50-65 A................................10 ..... 14
85 A.................................... 8 ..... 12
100 - 120 A.......................... 6 ..... 10
With this done, the bulk of the charging system current will no longer flow through the firewall connector - or the ammeter. Obviously, the ammeter will no longer be accurate. The plan here is a simple accessory voltmeter, which should have its positive (+) side wired (with practically any gauge wire) to any ignition-switched 12-volt point, and the negative (-) side to ground.
it is a good idea to stick a fuse in there. i think fusible link wire is just old tech that was hard to replace. an alternator putting out 65 or 100 amps would require a decent fuse and i don't think they quite knew enough about fuses to make a fuse that would last under those amps that was reasonably priced.
I went out and took a look at it, found some other stuff to fix. Took pictures, I'll post them here in a minute.
I was looking at it and I think I can totally do this. I just don't know what alternator is on it. I guess a 100amp? Then again, overkill is not really a problem, I just need a good fuse. 6 ga and a 10a fuse is what I'm looking at, right?
from the pics of your truck that i have seen i think you have the 65 amp alternator. you could probably still use 6 ga wire if you want but it might be a good idea to use the 14 ga fusible link wire.
this is what a 65 amp alternator looks like
you could probably use 10ga wire but i don't know about a inline fuse. not sure if you could get one in the 70 amp area. now i am not sure if what that inline fuse is for since i am pretty sure it is not factory. i would maybe guess that it could be constant power for something like a stereo since i think it would originally only have ignition power. isn't that a brown wire near were the stereo should be?
Blast, I didn't think about it having to be that high amp a fuse. Could I just wire it straight? I mean, it's already going to a relay and all.
Yeah, it's not factory, it has a 15a fuse in it. And I have no idea if that's where the stereo would be, there is so many colors of wiring used on this damn truck it's not even funny. I guess I could fix the connection then pull the fuse to see what goes away.
well you could but if the alternator decides to send out to much power you wont have a fuse to protect it. now saying that i got to admit i don't have any protecting my battery or wiring. i noticed the someone did a poor job replacing the fusible link from the alternator so i just completely removed it. now knowing how your truck is wired and how my truck is wired i think it would be a good idea to use some type of fuse. you can buy fusible link wire. its not that expensive. you have 1 main power wire into the ignition that splits to everything were mine has 3 power wire and all those are run through fusible links under the hood. those fusible links would save most of my wiring if my alternator decided to send out too much voltage