So rather than making a new thread for every single little issue I have, I am making this thread that shall encompass all of my problems with my 76 D200 project truck.
Today I got bored and decided to go wire-hunting...
This is what I ended up pulling out of the dash while trying to figure out what went where for the radio.
Pretty explanitory: anchient Sharp radio that doesn't work...at all.
Random BS wiring not pulled out yet, and random white wire with male connector
All that blue wiring shown in the first picture pulled out..SURPRISE! It's white. Damnit.
Picture of holes drilled in plastic trim-thing next to the passengerside jump seat, there IS the same on the driver's side...I am guessing there WAS speakers there.
And it looks funky because I had my flashlight on it. lol
I also made a video explaining stuff better, I'm prolly gonna make a photobucket account and host it from there.
I think what I'll do is when we replace the dash bezel, I'm going to see if I can replace the radio and install some speakers, totally bypassing the factory single speaker.
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Since head unit is pretty old, the wire harness coming off of it is pretty messed up, and the single tiny factory speaker is barely hanging on, I'm going to assume stuff is not working. lol The factory speaker also has a little screen on it that's torn, so I am wondering if the speaker is blown too.
Nothing was hooked up at all. Like zero, nothing. It all was either torn out and put back or fell apart.
i would still test it. what the worst thing that can happen? ground the body of the stereo and power the red wire. maybe it might surprise you. you can just apply 1.5volts to the speaker wires. if it make any noise at all it should still work. i have used some pretty bad speakers before. i even had one that had sat outside for years. cones was completely gone and looked nasty but it still worked.
I just looked through my first couple of pictures again and traced a wire that was single, possibly coming off the red wire on the headunit...that wire has a flat connector on the end. The first picture I posted has two wires that I have no clue where they go, one orange, on red. The red one has a connector on it that might accept a flat blade connector. WHAT IF! that is the factory power wire? if that's the case, I could run some wire from the radio, cut out all the crap that is rednecked, and fix the wiring going to the factory speaker. What do you think?
could be. if you have a multi meter you could test them. if you don't have a multi meter you could use a test light to make sure they are positive and negative. may need to have the key in the run or accessories position to see power at the wires.
something else you may want to look into electrical wise if you have not already.
The 60s - early 70s ammeters themselves were reliable pieces, it was the wiring that was usually to blame. If you look any service manual of the era, you’ll see that Chrysler was well aware of the problem - in fact, police, taxi, and fleet vehicles, whose electrical loads were typically quite high (and which vehicles typically had a “fatter” alternator) had the two charging-circuit conductors removed from the bulkhead connector, and its woefully-inadequate 1/4-inch Sta-Kon connectors, and run directly through the firewall (with a simple rubber grommet). If you’ve experienced firewall connector problems, you should consider this mod as an option.
The second plan is to convert to the ‘80s-‘90s style wiring. Simply connect the alternator output stud, via some serious gauge wire (matched to your alternator’s output specs) to the battery stud on the starter relay. But be absolutely sure you splice in an appropriate length of fusible-link wire into this new conductor! Here’s what gauges to shoot for:
Alternator output rating Wire gauge Fusible Link
Under 50 Ampere....................12 ..... 16
50-65 A................................10 ..... 14
85 A.................................... 8 ..... 12
100 - 120 A.......................... 6 ..... 10
With this done, the bulk of the charging system current will no longer flow through the firewall connector - or the ammeter. Obviously, the ammeter will no longer be accurate. The plan here is a simple accessory voltmeter, which should have its positive (+) side wired (with practically any gauge wire) to any ignition-switched 12-volt point, and the negative (-) side to ground.