Swedish 1986 D250
#1
Swedish 1986 D250
Got new wheels today on my D250. Mickey Thompson Classi III 16 by 8 rims with -12 mm offset. Rubber is also MT, Baja STZ, in 265/75-16. Sits perfectly in the wells and doesn't rub when turning (but it's VERY close up front).
How do I get more attachment space, what I have now is not much?
How do I get more attachment space, what I have now is not much?
#4
#5
Removed the exhaust today. It was about as bad a task as I expected it to be (I'm getting to old for this...).
I had been soaking the header bolts with WD40 for two days so all bolts broke lose with ease - except one that just broke (also with ease though). Naturally it's one of the most rearward bolts but luckily it's the right side one so access is pretty good.
I also removed the air injection pump and its manifold. The manifold was a pita to remove, I had to cut it in two pieces to get it off of the engine (kinda tight fit behind the engine). I actually had to sit inside the engine room to get to it - it's nice to have a truck with lots of space.
Next step is to plug the EGR holes and remove the snapped bolt.
I had been soaking the header bolts with WD40 for two days so all bolts broke lose with ease - except one that just broke (also with ease though). Naturally it's one of the most rearward bolts but luckily it's the right side one so access is pretty good.
I also removed the air injection pump and its manifold. The manifold was a pita to remove, I had to cut it in two pieces to get it off of the engine (kinda tight fit behind the engine). I actually had to sit inside the engine room to get to it - it's nice to have a truck with lots of space.
Next step is to plug the EGR holes and remove the snapped bolt.
#6
next time you may want to get something a bit stronger than wd40. wd40 is not really a penetrating oil. it beats nothing but it would still be better to use something that is a penetrating oil. i personally use liquid wrench penetrating oil because it is reasonably cheap and i have had good luck with it. also after you have sprayed the bolt with penetrating oil it is also a good idea to tap on the bolt heads lightly with a hammer. i think it actually says that on the liquid wrench penetrating oil can. suppose to help the oil seep in or something like that. i didn't break a single bolt when i took the manifolds off my 81.
#7
I actually used a product called 5-56 which is kinda like WD40 but not aviation approved. But you're right, a better product might have helped. Funny thing is that all bolts/nuts where very loose, almost to the point of me being surprised at the headers not leaking, but it still broke as soon as a started to turn it. Perhaps it has been overtorqued in the past.
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#8
I couldn't get the bolt out so I had to drill and tap for a new oversized bolt. Now I've left a surprise to the next owner with the new bolt being M10 rather than whatever it was originally.
Now it's exhaust fabbing time. Dual 2,5# glasspacks that converts to a single 4" with a glasspack. Not too loud I hope but just right.
Now it's exhaust fabbing time. Dual 2,5# glasspacks that converts to a single 4" with a glasspack. Not too loud I hope but just right.
#10
I fitted the headers and this is the first and last time I buy cheapo units (Flowtech) as the fit was really bad. They required dents on both sides (to clear the frame) and up by one exhaust port to get the nut on (the pipe was welded at an angle - idiots). And the best surprise for last, the starter don't fit anymore. I could probably, and I stress the probably, get it up if I could install it at the same time as putting the header in but there would be *******ly zero clearance between the header and the starter which would probably fry the starter over time. So I've ordered a mini starter...
Exhaust looks good though, can't wait to hear it
I've also cleaned the underside of the truck and I'm planning on spraying it everywhere tomorrow with anti corrosion wax. Whatever was there in the beginning has dried up over time and it's time for a refill.