Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 1st Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1st Gen Ram Tech '93 & older Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve 1993 Rams and older. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Any way to get d150 drop spindles?

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #241  
Old 12-14-2008, 09:17 PM
Riden LOw Riden LOw is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 19
Default

Hey guys this is 84 Ram, I haven't been on in a long time. I couldn't remember my e-mail password or password to this site so I'm starting over. I got my truck together with all the drop components from Eric at Mid America Customs, got it alignened and I have to say it drives really well. Probably better than when it was new.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #242  
Old 12-21-2008, 07:36 PM
lugnuts's Avatar
lugnuts lugnuts is offline
All Star
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Vehicle: '84 Dodge P.U. 440/727 '86 Ramcharger that'll drag CrowlikeaRooster's truck backerds.
Location: Odessa Tx.
Posts: 939
Default

Post some pics.
__________________
Murphy's Golden Rule: A $2500 TV will protect a .50 cent fuse by blowing first.
Reply With Quote
  #243  
Old 12-23-2008, 09:07 PM
Riden LOw Riden LOw is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 19
Default

I will just as soon as I get it moved up to my new place, I moved about two hours away and have yet to get it transfered up here.
Reply With Quote
  #244  
Old 12-24-2008, 01:41 PM
Rampant 150's Avatar
Rampant 150 Rampant 150 is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 122
Default

Wow its been a while. Ive hardly even looked at my truck since I started this thread. got into turbo dodges. A lot cheaper.
__________________

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934676

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2204963
If its too loud, you're too old!
Reply With Quote
  #245  
Old 12-24-2008, 08:55 PM
Riden LOw Riden LOw is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 19
Default

I'm the same way, I've been through a divorce been laid off and moved so my truck has been put on the back burner. I am going to start doing some much needed repairs that involve little to no money.
Reply With Quote
  #246  
Old 10-28-2009, 12:42 PM
mopar2ya86 mopar2ya86 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
Default Which Tie Rod Reamer?

What is the degree per foot reamer you need to ream out the Dakota drop spindels to fit the stock D150 Tie Rod End from the Top.

Over 25 pages on this thread and I didn't see it anywhere not even a link that calls out the correct reamer.

I have an 86 D150 and a set of western suspension 1st gen Dakato spindles.
Reply With Quote
  #247  
Old 10-28-2009, 03:45 PM
aaron7 aaron7 is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 325
Default

I've got an 88 D100 and would be interested in some drop spindles if they ever get made. Read a few pages but I'm not reading 25 of them to see what's up! haha
Reply With Quote
  #248  
Old 10-29-2009, 10:23 PM
lugnuts's Avatar
lugnuts lugnuts is offline
All Star
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Vehicle: '84 Dodge P.U. 440/727 '86 Ramcharger that'll drag CrowlikeaRooster's truck backerds.
Location: Odessa Tx.
Posts: 939
Default

Been a long time since I've been here myself. Been wondering if these would work.
www.magnumforce.com

Kinda pricey, but opens up lotsa options for brake upgrades. I went to the boneyard a couple years ago hunting a car spindle that would offer some drop. I measured a couple B bodies, a C body, F body and an M body.

All the spindles had the same spacing for the lower ball joint bolts as a pickup spindle. Unfortunately, the C/L of the spindle was the same too, so no drop.

If the Magnum Force would bolt up it might cure [or maybe create lol] a hell of a lot of problems.
Edit: I have no idea about the upper ball joint/wheel brg compatability, but given Ma Mopar's frugality it woudn't suprise me if there's a compatible upper joint/brgs on the books someplace. Could run B/E body 4.5" BC rotors/brakes ? I've done no research beyond the boneyard spindle measurements. Just another brain fart mostly.
__________________
Murphy's Golden Rule: A $2500 TV will protect a .50 cent fuse by blowing first.

Last edited by lugnuts; 10-29-2009 at 10:36 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #249  
Old 10-31-2009, 12:57 PM
moparborn moparborn is offline
Captain
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pittsburgh,PA.
Posts: 741
Default

I am thinking of going a little lower too,if I go with the Dakota lowering spindles,simply will all my original parts fit and what will need changed?
Sorry for asking this old question,I just want to know what I will need to get/do.
__________________

Last edited by moparborn; 10-31-2009 at 01:07 PM.. Reason: more info
Reply With Quote
  #250  
Old 11-12-2009, 03:58 AM
HeliDeiter HeliDeiter is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Vehicle: 88' Dodge D100
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 35
Default

Anyone have a part number/web site where I can get drop shackes for an '88 D100?
Reply With Quote
  #251  
Old 02-25-2010, 07:13 AM
Eric5564 Eric5564 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Vehicle: 90 d150
Location: PA
Posts: 2
Default

can you use a block in the rear
Reply With Quote
  #252  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:05 AM
racer9 racer9 is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Vehicle: '81 Ram, '96 Ram
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 382
Default

Sure, but those corners are going to hurt
Seriously, yes you can. But if the spring is on top of the axle, a block will raise the truck. If the spring is below the axle, it will drop it.
The downside is it will magnify the torque on the spring from axle wrap. An inch probably won't be noticed.
__________________
'96 Ram Cummins, turned up a bit, 306hp/743tq. 4X4, auto, Dunrite TC & VB, Intelligent Engineering billet input, Schwitzer S300g, 4" exhaust, homemade #100 plate, governor springs shimmed, homemade flatbed, Isspro gauges, bhaf.
'81 D150, 4BTA Cummins now rolling under own power.
Reply With Quote
  #253  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:43 PM
itsrname2 itsrname2 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 89 W150 318 Short bed
Location: Glen Burnie, Maryland
Posts: 35
Default

http://www.midamericacustoms.com/mac...ering_kit.aspx
Reply With Quote
  #254  
Old 03-09-2010, 07:26 AM
Eric5564 Eric5564 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Vehicle: 90 d150
Location: PA
Posts: 2
Default

so it will work but in other words its going to ride rough, is it also true you can
put a s10 drop spring in the front to drop it these are things i have heard but are
not sure about
Reply With Quote
  #255  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:07 PM
89RAM360GASPIG 89RAM360GASPIG is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Unhappy LCA/balljoint ?????

I read alot ealier in the thread about swapping stock d150 LCAs with the pocketed 1 ton control arms. I picked up the 1 ton arms but found that the balljoint is bigger and won't fit . what's the remedy for this. I read that besides drilling out the holes on the frame mount it was a direct replacement. what gives??
Reply With Quote
  #256  
Old 10-11-2010, 12:03 PM
shovelhead78 shovelhead78 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2
Default

I have read this thread from start to finsih> i want to thank you for the great info.i just picked up a 91 d150 and was looking at lower the truck but like all of you have said there is nothing out there.But this thread as help a bunch..But i see this thread as died off. i would like to see some pics of your guys trucks.So please start posting again.
Reply With Quote
  #257  
Old 10-13-2010, 02:47 PM
89RAM360GASPIG 89RAM360GASPIG is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Talking New update to lowering 1st gen Ram

I've completed the entire job of lowering my 1989 D150. I found the 1-ton control arms at a junkyard the pair was $80. I cut the stock springs JUST A HALF COIL. this droped the front a good 4-5 inches!!! In the Back I flipped the rear axle so the leafspring went under the rear axel instead of over it. This was more work than lowering the front. the bracket that the Leaf spring U-bolts go thru and the bottom of the shock bolts to must be flipped and to the top of the rear axle. I found that I also had to cut the bracket b/c the stud was hitting the frame . I also had to make new brackets and make a new location for the shock to bolt to. I moved the bottom of the shocks quite a bit inward on the rear axle. I was still riding about 1" between the rearend and the frame so I decided to intsall coil over shocks, this was a must in my case if I wanted a decent ride. without these mods I had no use of the rear suspenion hit a bump caused the frame and reaer end to bang together violently. Now with these coilover shocks the overall ride is still a littlt bouncy but t she handles alot like a car now. takes off ramps effortlessly @ 50 mph. My rear leafs must be shot. I was thinkink of going to new 3/4 ton leafs and a high quality shock thinking the 3/4 leafs would raise her a little but allow me to put groceries in the bed with needing the coilovers carry the load. what do y'all think. and I hope my experience will help any of you out there thing of doing this in the future. Oh yeah, How do I post pics here
Reply With Quote
  #258  
Old 10-16-2010, 12:22 AM
shovelhead78 shovelhead78 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89RAM360GASPIG View Post
I've completed the entire job of lowering my 1989 D150. I found the 1-ton control arms at a junkyard the pair was $80. I cut the stock springs JUST A HALF COIL. this droped the front a good 4-5 inches!!! In the Back I flipped the rear axle so the leafspring went under the rear axel instead of over it. This was more work than lowering the front. the bracket that the Leaf spring U-bolts go thru and the bottom of the shock bolts to must be flipped and to the top of the rear axle. I found that I also had to cut the bracket b/c the stud was hitting the frame . I also had to make new brackets and make a new location for the shock to bolt to. I moved the bottom of the shocks quite a bit inward on the rear axle. I was still riding about 1" between the rearend and the frame so I decided to intsall coil over shocks, this was a must in my case if I wanted a decent ride. without these mods I had no use of the rear suspenion hit a bump caused the frame and reaer end to bang together violently. Now with these coilover shocks the overall ride is still a littlt bouncy but t she handles alot like a car now. takes off ramps effortlessly @ 50 mph. My rear leafs must be shot. I was thinkink of going to new 3/4 ton leafs and a high quality shock thinking the 3/4 leafs would raise her a little but allow me to put groceries in the bed with needing the coilovers carry the load. what do y'all think. and I hope my experience will help any of you out there thing of doing this in the future. Oh yeah, How do I post pics here
What year lower control arms from the 1 ton did you use? Also got pics of the truck
Reply With Quote
  #259  
Old 10-18-2010, 08:16 AM
89RAM360GASPIG 89RAM360GASPIG is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Default any 1-ton from the 77-91

Any 1977-1991 1-ton truck or van. Just make sure the balljoints are the smaller ones as two diff. were used. that's the only thing to look for as I got the wrong ones 1st and then had to exchange them. I'll try to figure out pics soon
Reply With Quote
  #260  
Old 05-26-2011, 11:13 PM
GLHS592 GLHS592 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 10
Default

I forgot I was a member here. Here is a how-to I wrote up for the van lower control arms and the rear axle flip.

Nobody makes much in the way of aftermarket parts for 1972-1993 Dodge trucks. Parts for lowering your Dodge pickup are not offered by the major aftermarket companies like Belltech or Eibach. There is one small manufacturer that makes some very expensive lower control arms, but I've had no luck getting in contact with them. What can you do if you want to lower your pickup? You can go the cheap route by cutting your coil springs. This may cause your spring rates to change or cause camber problems. You could go the expensive route by modifying a pair of lowering spindles made for a 1st generation Dakota. I've heard this works, but there are a few issues with this and it takes a lot of trouble to get them to work.

There is another option that is very simple, engineered by the factory, and is cost effective. Go to the junkyard and find a 1972-1993 Dodge B-series van and unbolt the lower control arms. Just swapping the van's lower control arms onto your 1972-1993 Dodge half ton truck lowers it roughly 3" due to the fact that the van lower control arms have a spring pocket that allows the coil springs to sit lower than they do in the truck's stock lower control arms. No shock or spring change is needed. It doesn't matter if it is a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, or 1 ton van. The van lower control arms are the same. I purchased a pair from a mid 80's B350 for $40 plus tax at my local Pull-A-Part.

I had trouble separating the steering knuckle from the lower control arm at the ball joint. In fact, I gave up and left the junkyard. I asked around and found out that the steering knuckle is a two-piece design. There are two 15/16 bolts/nuts that you will have to unbolt in order to separate the top piece from the bottom piece. You will have to take the brake caliper and rotor off to gain access to the bolts. Remove those steering knuckle bolts, take out the shock absorber, unbolt the control arm pivot bolt, remove the strut rod from the lower control arms, and separate the steering tie rod from the lower steering knuckle piece and you're done. The only parts you will need are the lower control arms and the control arm pivot bolts/nuts. Once you get the lower control arms home, take a large hammer and remove the lower steering knuckle piece from the ball joint and then knock the ball joint out. You cannot reuse the ball joints from the one ton van because they are larger in diameter than the ones on your truck. I do not know if the 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton ball joints are the same or not. New ball joints are $30 at NAPA, so you might as well replace them anyway.

There are a couple modifications you will need to make to the lower control arms and your truck. First, completely remove the steering stops. They are not needed and the arms will look cleaner without them. Next, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in each arm for the strut rods. I pulled a stringline from the center of the ball joint to the center of the pivot bushing and found the holes in the truck arms are equal distance from the centerline of the arm. Measure the distance from the ball joint to the strut rod holes on the truck arms. Now, you can transfer this information onto the van arms, mark your holes, and drill. There is one modification you will need to make to the lower control arm pivot holes on your truck's frame. The truck's factory lower control arm bolts are 5/8" in diameter. The van's are 3/4" in diameter. You will need to drill these holes larger for the van's bolts to fit the truck. I was thinking that maybe I would be able to slide the sleeve from the truck arms into the sleeve on the van arms so I wouldn't have to drill the pivot holes. The truck sleeve is too large in diameter to fit inside the van's sleeve,so that will not work. From this point, you may be able to just bolt the van arms on your truck. I had a little problem with mine. I tried to install my driver's side arm and the holes wouldn't begin to line up. I found that the metal around the pivot bushing on the arm was up against the pivot bracket on the truck. Before you paint your lower control arms, you may want to grind a little off the arms around the pivot bushing.

When I put the wheels back on and dropped the truck onto the ground, I measured 1/2" between the bottom of the fender and top of the tire. Before the drop, I measured 3.5". I'm very pleased with that. To my surprise, the camber wasn't off too bad, however, the wheels were pointed in different directions. I also had to cut the bump stop brackets off because they were hitting the lower control arms. Another thing, any time you perform work like this to your vehicle, a front end alignment is necessary.

Click the image to open in full size.
The steering knuckle is a two piece design on the truck and van. You will need a 15/16" socket for these.
Click the image to open in full size.
Van arms with van lower steering knuckle
Click the image to open in full size.
Van arms with bump stops and ball joint removed
Click the image to open in full size.
Side by side comparison of the truck arm and van arm. Blue arrows point to the strut rod bolt holes that you need to drill.
Click the image to open in full size.
Truck pivot bolt (5/8") on top and van pivot bolt (3/4") on bottom
Click the image to open in full size.
Drilling the truck's pivot bolt bracket from 5/8" to 3/4"
Click the image to open in full size.
Grind in the unpainted area shown by the arrows. The holes in the lower control arms would not line up with the ones on the truck's pivot bracket due to this area touching the pivot bracket.
Click the image to open in full size.
Finished product
Click the image to open in full size.
Before
Click the image to open in full size.
After

Rear axle flip:
I found a pair of leaf spring perches on an old rearend I had. I unbolted the axle and dropped it to the floor. I removed the shocks and dropped the driveshaft to make it easier to move the axle around. You may not have to do either. Then, I clamped the leaf springs together with a C-clamp before I removed the leaf centering pin to flip it over. You will have to remove each leaf spring from their hangers and put them under the axle. Sit the spring perches on top of each leaf spring and sit the axle on top of the spring perches. The new spring perches should be on the exact opposite side of the axle from the original spring perches to keep pinion angle. Clamp everything down using your original lower shock mount plates (modified in the picture below) and new U-bolts. Weld the rear axle to the spring perches.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Completed pictures.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
Kevin Isenberg
1985 Dodge Ram D-100
1985 Dodge Shelby Charger
1987 Shelby Charger GLHS
1997 Dodge Ram 3500
1998 Dodge Ram SS/T

Last edited by GLHS592; 05-26-2011 at 11:17 PM..
Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2011, 11:13 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
1500, 34, 86, cardomaincom, cummins, d150, dakota, dodge, drop, durango, kits, lowering, ram, spindle, spindles, swap, ton

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:48 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails