What are symptoms of loose timing chain??
#21
04-11-2009, 04:56 PM
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Frank Guerra (10-12-2020)
#22
04-11-2009, 05:17 PM
I have posted on this truck before and am about to my wits end. It just does not have the power it should. I drove home from work tonight and was driving into a headwind and was emabarrassing to have the pedal practically floored. (1998 W150 4X4 318 TBI 108,000 miles automatic No OD) The best way I could describe it is like it has apples stuck in the exhaust pipes. (It has new duals with cherry bombs and no cat). I have done several tune up procedures on it and cleaned the throttle body as well as ran mopar combustion chamber cleaner thru it. Has new computer, map sensor, O2 sensor, EGR valve, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, K&N air filter, coil, hall effect pick up coil, EGR valve. I have spent a great deal of time checking and looking for intake and vacuum leaks with a small handheld propane canister. I ran a compression check and all cylinders read between 140 and 150 lbs. I have checked out all of the leads for lack of power suggested in the haynes manual. My old 85 Dodge van with a 318 will run circles around this thing. Here is what has me stumped!!! When I attempt to set the timing on it, it runs horrible when it is anywhere near what the catalyst sticker calls for which is 10 degrees BTDC. The only way I can get it to run halfway decent is to set the timing by ear insted of using a light. I am unplugging the coolant sensor before attempting to adjust the timing. I usually see 9 and have not seen over 10 MPG even on the highway. It idles as smooth as silk, but does hesitate when engine is not fully warmed up. I drive this to work daily! I am wondering if the timing chain is real loose or if their is a problem with the distributor itself somewhere? I am open to ideas! Thanks.
#23
04-11-2009, 05:29 PM
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04-11-2009, 05:45 PM
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04-11-2009, 06:13 PM
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#26
04-12-2009, 08:10 AM
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I have an 89 same as yours with the exact same problem. I have done all of the work on every vehicle I have ever owned in my 58 years on this earth. I have gone as far as a complete rebuild of the engine and have not solved this problem. It finally got bad enough that the truck will not hardly move. I have given up. I had it towed to a guy on thursday that came highly recommended and will let you know the results. If this guy can't figure it out I will have no choice but to scrap the truck. God knows I hate to give up on anything but this has become untenable. If he can solve it I will blame myself for lack of knowledge and go on. If he can't I will swear off dodges forever.
I have an 89 same as yours with the exact same problem. I have done all of the work on every vehicle I have ever owned in my 58 years on this earth. I have gone as far as a complete rebuild of the engine and have not solved this problem. It finally got bad enough that the truck will not hardly move. I have given up. I had it towed to a guy on thursday that came highly recommended and will let you know the results. If this guy can't figure it out I will have no choice but to scrap the truck. God knows I hate to give up on anything but this has become untenable. If he can solve it I will blame myself for lack of knowledge and go on. If he can't I will swear off dodges forever.
#27
04-12-2009, 11:04 AM
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First and foremost, have you checked the fuel pressure? What about the filter? Fuel injected motors don't stumble and gag when the pressure is low, they just run out of power from being lean.
Now then. Smallblock Mopars are hard on chains due to poor oiling,hence Mopar went to a double roller chain with a tensioner. It's also possible the outer ring on the balancer has slipped, and your timing marks are off.
Replace the chain, and here's how to check the balancer while you have the water pump and all the rest of the stuff outta the way. Knock the guts out of an old spark plug and JB Quick a bolt about 3" long in the shell. Screw the piston stop you've just made in the number one cyl. Gently roll the motor by hand until the piston hits the stop, mark the balancer. Roll the motor the other way until it hits the stop, mark the balancer. Remove the stop and measure between the marks. Top dead center [0 degrees on the balancer] should be half way between the marks. If it's right you're golden, if it's off replace the balancer.
Now then. Smallblock Mopars are hard on chains due to poor oiling,hence Mopar went to a double roller chain with a tensioner. It's also possible the outer ring on the balancer has slipped, and your timing marks are off.
Replace the chain, and here's how to check the balancer while you have the water pump and all the rest of the stuff outta the way. Knock the guts out of an old spark plug and JB Quick a bolt about 3" long in the shell. Screw the piston stop you've just made in the number one cyl. Gently roll the motor by hand until the piston hits the stop, mark the balancer. Roll the motor the other way until it hits the stop, mark the balancer. Remove the stop and measure between the marks. Top dead center [0 degrees on the balancer] should be half way between the marks. If it's right you're golden, if it's off replace the balancer.
#28
04-12-2009, 11:24 AM
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