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New Truck Guy Looking for Advice on 318 Rebuild

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  #71  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:59 PM
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Yea I've seen the concerns about the leaking wells, and my plan is to throw a little (very little) bit of JB on them when I rebuild it. I really appreciate the offer for the Holley spreadbore, but I already got this one. Im not 100% sure if its the right linkage or not. It was originally made for GM, but the guy at the junkyard said it came off an old 360 in a camper. I havent compared it to my 2bbl yet, but Im not sure if the linkage is supposed to look the same between the two or not.
 
  #72  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:19 PM
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Glad to hear You are gonna try the QJet!

Let me know if I can help You in any way!!
Yeah, not knowing what a 2bbl linkage looks like, I am not much help...
 
  #73  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:20 PM
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My dad should still have quite a few parts for Q-jets, so I will ask him what he has....

He may have some main jets, metering rods, secondary hangers and secondary rods....

We can spec out what You have once You have yours torn apart.

JB Weld should work fine for the wells. Some carburetors have a cracked internal well that can't be fixed within the main body.... they drip and leak gas all the time, even after a fix.
 

Last edited by BOOSTED D150; 04-09-2013 at 10:31 PM.
  #74  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:26 PM
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I guess I could give you guys an update:

Pulled my motor last weekend, and it is now torn down all the way to the block. For a 35 yr old motor it wasn't too bad, but it was definitely time for this build. Had a couple crank bearing that were getting ready to spin, and some of the lobes on my cam were nearly completely round. Block and cylinders were in good shape. Only had 1 cylinder that looked like it wasn't burning right, and since I had previously checked compression it must have been a spark issue. Pictures of everything will follow soon, just cant add them right now.

1 question: The brass piece that the oil pump gear sits in, does it need to be taken out and/or replaced before I take the block to a machine shop? I'm going to get the shop to do all my freeze plugs, but I haven't done anything with that brass fitting because I wasn't sure what to do with it.
 
  #75  
Old 04-10-2013, 10:24 AM
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It does not have to be taken out before it goes to the machine shop. But sometimes they are hard to get out and back in right. They are pressed in. To save you some trouble, you might want to see how much the shop will charge you to change it. How does your cam bearings look? If you are this far apart with the motor and putting a new cam in you might want to put new ones in while it is at the shop. They have to be pressed out and in.
The carb you got should work and should have the right linkage on it already if it was being used on a mopar motor to start with. Just as long as you got/they gave you everything with it.
What cam did you decide on using?
 
  #76  
Old 04-10-2013, 04:10 PM
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All the bearings were ok, but I'm replacing them anyways since I'm this far into it. Carb looks good, except I'm missing the idle mix screws, and a spring/pin that is on the secondary throttle rod. I'm having a hard time finding the particular pin/spring that I need for the secondary, and if anyone knows where to look for one I would like to know.

Also where the idle screws go in on the base plate it looks weird. I'm not sure if its wore, or if it is cast this way. Ill attach a picture to show it. Hopefully this isn't a terrible problem. It looks like the idler screws would still function with it this way, thats why I thought it may be cast this way.

As for the linkage I was told it came off a 360, but really have no way to confirm it and the linkage looks nothing like what was on my Carter 2bbl.

I'm still planning to go with the Comp cam, budget allowing. Depends on what my machining cost and such are.
 
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  #77  
Old 04-10-2013, 07:05 PM
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The idle mixture screws are set at the factory and they then installed plugs over them so they wouldn't be tampered with but when they needed to be rebuilt or the idle mixture screws needed adjustment you had to remove the carb and chisel out the plugs. That is why the baseplate looks like that.
 

Last edited by sls001; 04-10-2013 at 07:06 PM. Reason: edited
  #78  
Old 04-10-2013, 07:29 PM
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After some more digging on the net, I've found that I do not have the correct throttle linkage. I'm assuming this means taking the blades and throttle shaft out and swapping it. I think I can just take the one of my 2bbl as long as the shafts are the same size.

Anyone got any tips for this job?
 
  #79  
Old 04-13-2013, 12:07 PM
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So, I have a Chevy 350 performer intake that I would like to swap for a 318 intake, anyone know where the best place to do that would be? I have an ad on CL now, but didnt know if you guys knew of any parts swapping sites out there.
 
  #80  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:56 AM
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I dont know of any myself. Let me guess, the carb and intake you got for $60 was off a chevy not a mopar? If that is the case you have just learned one of the main lessons of buying used parts. On a side note at less it was only $60 and not $500 like a friend of mine did when he started out. On a good note, there are a lot of people that build chevys so you should have not problem getting rid of the intake. I would clean it up and make it look as new as I could. I would sale it for no less than half what a new one is. You would at less make some money on it that way and if you can get the carb to work right, then that will save you money cause you want have to buy one.
 


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