83 d150 lean burn convertion
#1
83 d150 lean burn convertion
i have a 83 dodge d150 was originally a 225 /6 but i have recently upgraded to a 318. and have been trying to convert the lean burn to a 4 pin type Chrysler ecu and have run in to a problem. every time i turn the key to run the starter engages. and wont disengage even after the engine is running. i found out the problem was the wire i hooked to the starter solenoid and to the balist resistor is back feeding the solenoid and keeping it closed so the starter wont stop but un hooking the wire keeps the engine from running.
#2
#3
Here is how I did my 86. Didn't need any additional wiring. My computer is mounted behind battery under fender.
All the wires I used when I did the conversion were all there plugged into the computer. There were 2 wires going to the coil, 2 to the distributor and 1 ground wire.
Here is a link to a PDF of the wire diagram from the factory service manual and wires highlighted that I used.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!151&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!134&authkey=!ABlPt s12eOvYLZI
doing this mod I was able to eliminate 15 wires from my wire harness.
I used a 6 pin GM weatherpack that I got from junk yard for $2 to make all the connections. Weatherpack is so that it will disconnect from main harness for removal if any repairs are necessary. Do not attempt to buy this weatherpack new from NAPA just the blank housings are $15 apiece!!!! By the time the guy had figured all the pins and seal I would have had $45 in just one six pin connector. I found mine on a K5 blazer for $2. I was able to reuse most of the seals and bought new pins as needed. I think I ended up with $10 or less invested in the connector.
Originally when doing the conversion I had tried using a dizzy out of 73 dodge truck. It had to much mechanical advance, 30 degrees total if I remember correctly. Grab one from a 78 Volare with Super Six setup and it made huge difference. I also used the Blaster 2 coil as in the article. There was no ballast resistor either.
I wanted to mount this in the original location of the Lean Burn computer. The engineers designed the computer housing to hook into the air intake for the engine to help with keeping the computer cool,
so I thought it would a good place to help keep the module cool.
Well I disassemble the computer and found that after pulling the electronics out of the housing I was left with an 8 3/4 inch X 4 inch area for a heat sink. So I picked up a piece of 1/4 in aluminum plate to fit in the housing, shouldn't have any heat sink issues. Some would say that I went thru allot of trouble to mount this module. But the housing is designed with 2 openings one where air is drawn in by the other opening that is connected by a hose to the breather intake hose, there by drawing cooler air across the entire inside of the housing. I have been driving it like this since 2007 and have not had any issues.
Here is a picture of the rewired module and ready to reassemble.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!153&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!AI5JA 6xyhouBGNQ
I kept the vacuum advance pod in there just to plug that hole. Make note of how the pod is orientated when you pull the 2 halves of the housing apart, or it will not go back together easily.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!154&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!ADxQI 8yvF3fYYso
Hope this will help.
Dave
All the wires I used when I did the conversion were all there plugged into the computer. There were 2 wires going to the coil, 2 to the distributor and 1 ground wire.
Here is a link to a PDF of the wire diagram from the factory service manual and wires highlighted that I used.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!151&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!134&authkey=!ABlPt s12eOvYLZI
doing this mod I was able to eliminate 15 wires from my wire harness.
I used a 6 pin GM weatherpack that I got from junk yard for $2 to make all the connections. Weatherpack is so that it will disconnect from main harness for removal if any repairs are necessary. Do not attempt to buy this weatherpack new from NAPA just the blank housings are $15 apiece!!!! By the time the guy had figured all the pins and seal I would have had $45 in just one six pin connector. I found mine on a K5 blazer for $2. I was able to reuse most of the seals and bought new pins as needed. I think I ended up with $10 or less invested in the connector.
Originally when doing the conversion I had tried using a dizzy out of 73 dodge truck. It had to much mechanical advance, 30 degrees total if I remember correctly. Grab one from a 78 Volare with Super Six setup and it made huge difference. I also used the Blaster 2 coil as in the article. There was no ballast resistor either.
I wanted to mount this in the original location of the Lean Burn computer. The engineers designed the computer housing to hook into the air intake for the engine to help with keeping the computer cool,
so I thought it would a good place to help keep the module cool.
Well I disassemble the computer and found that after pulling the electronics out of the housing I was left with an 8 3/4 inch X 4 inch area for a heat sink. So I picked up a piece of 1/4 in aluminum plate to fit in the housing, shouldn't have any heat sink issues. Some would say that I went thru allot of trouble to mount this module. But the housing is designed with 2 openings one where air is drawn in by the other opening that is connected by a hose to the breather intake hose, there by drawing cooler air across the entire inside of the housing. I have been driving it like this since 2007 and have not had any issues.
Here is a picture of the rewired module and ready to reassemble.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!153&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!AI5JA 6xyhouBGNQ
I kept the vacuum advance pod in there just to plug that hole. Make note of how the pod is orientated when you pull the 2 halves of the housing apart, or it will not go back together easily.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!154&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!ADxQI 8yvF3fYYso
Hope this will help.
Dave
#4
Here is how I did my 86. Didn't need any additional wiring. My computer is mounted behind battery under fender.
All the wires I used when I did the conversion were all there plugged into the computer. There were 2 wires going to the coil, 2 to the distributor and 1 ground wire.
Here is a link to a PDF of the wire diagram from the factory service manual and wires highlighted that I used.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!151&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!134&authkey=!ABlPt s12eOvYLZI
doing this mod I was able to eliminate 15 wires from my wire harness.
I used a 6 pin GM weatherpack that I got from junk yard for $2 to make all the connections. Weatherpack is so that it will disconnect from main harness for removal if any repairs are necessary. Do not attempt to buy this weatherpack new from NAPA just the blank housings are $15 apiece!!!! By the time the guy had figured all the pins and seal I would have had $45 in just one six pin connector. I found mine on a K5 blazer for $2. I was able to reuse most of the seals and bought new pins as needed. I think I ended up with $10 or less invested in the connector.
Originally when doing the conversion I had tried using a dizzy out of 73 dodge truck. It had to much mechanical advance, 30 degrees total if I remember correctly. Grab one from a 78 Volare with Super Six setup and it made huge difference. I also used the Blaster 2 coil as in the article. There was no ballast resistor either.
I wanted to mount this in the original location of the Lean Burn computer. The engineers designed the computer housing to hook into the air intake for the engine to help with keeping the computer cool,
so I thought it would a good place to help keep the module cool.
Well I disassemble the computer and found that after pulling the electronics out of the housing I was left with an 8 3/4 inch X 4 inch area for a heat sink. So I picked up a piece of 1/4 in aluminum plate to fit in the housing, shouldn't have any heat sink issues. Some would say that I went thru allot of trouble to mount this module. But the housing is designed with 2 openings one where air is drawn in by the other opening that is connected by a hose to the breather intake hose, there by drawing cooler air across the entire inside of the housing. I have been driving it like this since 2007 and have not had any issues.
Here is a picture of the rewired module and ready to reassemble.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!153&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!AI5JA 6xyhouBGNQ
I kept the vacuum advance pod in there just to plug that hole. Make note of how the pod is orientated when you pull the 2 halves of the housing apart, or it will not go back together easily.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!154&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!ADxQI 8yvF3fYYso
Hope this will help.
Dave
All the wires I used when I did the conversion were all there plugged into the computer. There were 2 wires going to the coil, 2 to the distributor and 1 ground wire.
Here is a link to a PDF of the wire diagram from the factory service manual and wires highlighted that I used.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!151&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!134&authkey=!ABlPt s12eOvYLZI
doing this mod I was able to eliminate 15 wires from my wire harness.
I used a 6 pin GM weatherpack that I got from junk yard for $2 to make all the connections. Weatherpack is so that it will disconnect from main harness for removal if any repairs are necessary. Do not attempt to buy this weatherpack new from NAPA just the blank housings are $15 apiece!!!! By the time the guy had figured all the pins and seal I would have had $45 in just one six pin connector. I found mine on a K5 blazer for $2. I was able to reuse most of the seals and bought new pins as needed. I think I ended up with $10 or less invested in the connector.
Originally when doing the conversion I had tried using a dizzy out of 73 dodge truck. It had to much mechanical advance, 30 degrees total if I remember correctly. Grab one from a 78 Volare with Super Six setup and it made huge difference. I also used the Blaster 2 coil as in the article. There was no ballast resistor either.
I wanted to mount this in the original location of the Lean Burn computer. The engineers designed the computer housing to hook into the air intake for the engine to help with keeping the computer cool,
so I thought it would a good place to help keep the module cool.
Well I disassemble the computer and found that after pulling the electronics out of the housing I was left with an 8 3/4 inch X 4 inch area for a heat sink. So I picked up a piece of 1/4 in aluminum plate to fit in the housing, shouldn't have any heat sink issues. Some would say that I went thru allot of trouble to mount this module. But the housing is designed with 2 openings one where air is drawn in by the other opening that is connected by a hose to the breather intake hose, there by drawing cooler air across the entire inside of the housing. I have been driving it like this since 2007 and have not had any issues.
Here is a picture of the rewired module and ready to reassemble.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!153&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!AI5JA 6xyhouBGNQ
I kept the vacuum advance pod in there just to plug that hole. Make note of how the pod is orientated when you pull the 2 halves of the housing apart, or it will not go back together easily.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=d9c9782e5d985329&resid=D9C9782E5D98 5329!154&parid=D9C9782E5D985329!152&authkey=!ADxQI 8yvF3fYYso
Hope this will help.
Dave
#6
It would be J9 14BK pin 10 of the 10 pin connector.
I ground it right to one of the module's mounting screws, as seen in the picture.
Dave
#7
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#8