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New 1986 W150 5.2L owner w/ questions

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  #11  
Old 08-13-2014, 10:06 PM
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as for the kickdown arm on the trans. on the stock 2 barrel it had a little pin it went onto with a small washer and a clip that held it on. as you pushed the throttle it would move that backwards towards the rear of the truck, and at full throttle it woould move it back far enough to downshift the trans. into 2nd gear, and then you will haul ***. not being hooked up, it will not downshift to 2nd gear when you floor your accelerator.
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-2014, 06:46 AM
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Thank you rebeltaz83, i did plug the hose when i set the timing only because i read it on another post last night. So with the hose plugged the timing is right but with it plugged back into the carb the timing will appear way off right? And since the kickdown hooks to the throttle im assuming that i have to find some kind of aftermarket hookup since the carb, throttle cable, brackets, and cable are all aftermarket. And im going to get on the headlights this afternoon after work, thanks again.
 
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kcchiefs2318
Thank you rebeltaz83, i did plug the hose when i set the timing only because i read it on another post last night. So with the hose plugged the timing is right but with it plugged back into the carb the timing will appear way off right? And since the kickdown hooks to the throttle im assuming that i have to find some kind of aftermarket hookup since the carb, throttle cable, brackets, and cable are all aftermarket. And im going to get on the headlights this afternoon after work, thanks again.
yes, the timing will be off when checked with the vacuum advance hooked up. common mistake if not knowing,lol. yeah, i would contact holley and ask if they sell a kit to hook-up the kickdown assembly to the aftermarket carb. if my dakota project wasn't a half hour drive away, i'd snap a pic. of what it looks like on a 2 barrel carb. so you have an idea what you have to do. i'd get the numbers off your 4 barrel and your year, make, model, engine size when you call them, they have to make a kit to hook that up or whats the point of putting it on there if you can't kickdown into 2nd gear to go. you will have to manually shift it down to 2nd gear, and then shift it back to drive, lol.
 
  #14  
Old 08-15-2014, 08:22 AM
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Sorry KCChiefs....cannot get an angle good enough to take a pic of the linkages. The access ports are too small for my phone or tablet to get the angle needed to take the pic. If you good it, there are diagrams out there and there are also ones on youtube (dakotas mostly) that may help.

Good luck!
 
  #15  
Old 08-16-2014, 06:54 PM
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Ty guys for your help so far. I have another problem now. The headlights on the truck were not working when i got it but the turn signals, brake, and running lights work. I just changed the control switch and i tried new headlights and still nothing. I dont have power at the lights. I have power on 3 pins going into the control switch but im not sure what those pins coincide with. Any suggestions? Wiring harness for the lights messed up somewhere maybe?
 
  #16  
Old 08-17-2014, 08:22 AM
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check the dimmer switch on the floor.
Mine went bad after only 25 years.
 
  #17  
Old 08-17-2014, 07:40 PM
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Will the headlights not work without that switch? It was gone when i purchased the truck.
 
  #18  
Old 08-17-2014, 11:44 PM
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Some won't depends on how your lights are wired it mght not with it not being able to tell if it's brights or dims

cole
 
  #19  
Old 08-18-2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kcchiefs2318
Will the headlights not work without that switch? It was gone when i purchased the truck.
The switch sends power to the dimmer switch.
Dimmer switch selects high ot low beam.
No dimmer switch, no lights unless someone has bypassed it.
 
  #20  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:48 PM
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well ty i think that is probably the problem then. ill keep you updated.
 



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