Just bought a D-100, slant-6, loaded with most all the good equipment, automatic, air, tilt/cruise, and many of these items use vacuum to operate. It had sat for ten years or so and everything is dusty and there is little knowlege of its history. It shows 91K miles, and I'm sure its not 191K.

I looked under the hood and saw a bad battery with bad cables with bolt-on wire clamps full of corrosion. The leads were originals with cracked insulation so I just got new ones and put in a new battery--it now cranks and starts pretty well. It fires up and idles fast, sounds pretty good considering unknown (bad) fuel. Here's the question: there are about six tiny vacuum hoses coming out of 'boxes' at the rear of the engine compartment on the left (passenger) side, apparently having to do with the vent system. They all make a 90 degree corner at the valve cover and go forward to another 90 degree turn, pointing toward the carb. At this point they are broken and its clear they are supposed to plug into something right there, but they are just sitting there open, broken, not plugged into anything.

So now back to the starting situation: it idles on fast idle pretty well for 5-10 minutes, but as it warms up it begins wanting to die. It fires up again but dies easily. Would the vacuum tubes be the source of this bad idle situation?

Who can direct me to the solution for the vacuum tubes? Is there a diagram, or better, a photograph I can look at? I admit diagrams look like Greek to me. Would these tubes all go into a junction device to give them all vacuum? Do you get these parts at just any auto parts store? Advice, please.

 

I'll update my own post: I got the air cleaner off and tried to figure out some of the vacuum issues. I found a vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood. I can't figure it out but have decided the tiny vacuum tubes go to some emission equipment toward the rear of the engine compartment on the pass. side. I plugged them all near the carb thinking it would make a big improvement. There is actually little improvement.
Here's what it does: When cold it starts easily and idles fast for five min or so, (maybe 1100rpm) then it gains some temperature and the idle slows a little to around 8-900 rpm, then after 10 minutes and tempertature builds a bit more it idles slower and dies suddenly. It re-starts easily but won't idle at all by itself. At this point it won't respond to throttle at all. It will re-start but you cannot force it to rev above 8-900 rpm. Give it a little throttle and it dies.
I learned this is not a D-100, but a D-150 Royale SE, apparently a fairly loaded little truck with intermittent wipers, cruise, tilt, A/C, all the features most want on a modern truck. Its rust free, at least I haven't seen a single rust hole anywhere. Even the padded (plastic?) dash is mint, perfect. I am determined to get it driving, but I resist having it towed to a real mechanic. I was hoping someone here had a suggestion that would clear up the bad throttle response which seems tied to engine temperature.
Tomorrow I am buying a new dist cap and wires, the wires look like originals, and the cap has some suspicious marks inside like its got problems, they're cheap, right? I'll be draining the gas out also, and put in some new. Maybe a new fuel filter too. Can't hurt.

 

With the engine warm and off and the air breather off look down the carb,with choke open, pull the throttle cable to wide open.
You should get gas shooting into the carb.
IF not your accelerator pump is not working and engine will die.

Dave

 

Here we are weeks later, I will update my own post. I found my 'squirter' wasn't squirting (accelerator pump?) So I had a new carb kit installed by a knowlegeable friend, and now the squirter is squirting, but the choke isn't working at all, and the rod to the 'stove' on the intake manifold seems to not be the right length for some reason. When looking down the throat of the carb there is nothing I can do to make the choke stay closed (with a cold engine). I can start up with no problem, but it stumbles for awhile (with the choke butterfly wide open) until it warms up, and then it runs pretty well, but it won't idle. I drove it around for the first time a few days ago, it runs nice til you come to a stop, then you must feather the throttle a little so it won't die. Obviously I need some advice from a carb guru who can help me sort out my driveability problems. At least it responds to the throttle for the first time, now that the squirter is squirting.
I don't think there are any vacuum leaks but I will try spraying carb cleaner in the suspicious spots today.
The good news is that the engine seems quite sound, runs well otherwise. Trans seems good too.

 

http://www.slantsix.org/ This site is wealth of info on slant 6. This article will help with the choke adjustment http://www.slantsix.org/articles/cho...oke-adjust.htm
These article can help with carb adjustments which may help with idle issue.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55801

Dave

 

Thanks xjar--that is exactly what I needed!