I've got a '75 360 that I rebuilt for my '83 1/2 ton that's got some issues. This is the second engine I've built, and had no issues with the first. This engine is a fresh rebuild, properly broken in, and runs well. It's bored 30 over, 9:1 flat top Pistons with valve reliefs, a Purple Shaft cam matching 340 specs that I retarded 2 degrees with an adjustable timing set, an Edelbrock LD340 intake with a Summit 600 carb, and an HEI distributor with 8mm plug wires. The heads are stock 2 bbl heads.
The first problem is that it barely starts when hot (it doesn't crank, but knocks a few times then is suddenly running). Starts fine cold. The electric choke is working properly. The timing I'm constantly playing with, set it to maximum vacuum (don't recall the numbers off the top of my head right now). I don't know what the curve in the distributor is. The starter is a new stock unit. The plugs all look good.
The second issue is a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the front passenger side. I didn't notice this in the beginning because the worn out alternator made enough noise to cover it up. It's a slowish tick at idle that increases with rpm. I'm going to loosen off and re-tighten the exhaust manifold bolts on the next round.
I imagine I messed up something in the build, or I'm missing something obvious (I tend to do that). Thoughts?

 

Ok, I made some headway today. I borrowed a buddies stethoscope and had a good listen. The clicking was coming from the passenger side head. So off came the valve cover and I immediately saw two problems. There was a broken push rod on cylinder two, and all the rockers were out of the proper order. Replaced the rod with one of the original ones, redid the rockers and ran it with the cover off. Everything seems to work, but still clicks, and I only had oil squirting out of the rockers on the rear two cylinders. The factory oil pressure gauge isn't hooked up (the warning light is though), as it wouldn't clear the distributor. I have a tester to hook up and see where it is, but I've risked frostbite enough for one day. Next time I'll take both covers off to see what the oils doing on the drivers side as well.

 

Checked the oil pressure, it's not what I expected. It's rougly -10c out today, pressure was at 66 pds, and stayed there while it slowly warmed up. If I gunned it, it'd go up to nearly 80, but never lower then 66. I did put a Melling high volume oil pump in, but I didn't do anything to the pressure spring, so I doubt that's the issue. What can cause the high pressure?

 

Got the clicking gone, replaced all pushrods. Then saw that the rocker shaft was backwards. Sounds real nice now. Still have the oil pressure issue to figure out, and the hot start issue. What kind of pressure is normal for a fresh engine? Do I need a high torque starter for a 9:1 engine?

 

If the oil pressure sending unit is that of a dummy light style, it will show much higher readings than the style intended for a gauge. It is a very simple and inaccurate on/off switch whereas the gauge style is a variable reading sensor that is only slightly more accurate than the dummy light version. None of the sending units or gauges that dodge put in those trucks were known to be very reliable. I suggest verifying the correct sending unit, then if it is the correct one, double check your pressure with a loaner gauge from a parts store. Good luck!

 

I used an actual tool pressure gauge I've had for a few years, the stock pressure sending unit wouldn't fit with the new distributor I put in, so no stock gauge for me. I picked up an aftermarket gauge to put in it yesterday, along with a new K&N oil filter, so I'll see if they help any.