P2173 is a vacuum leak detected or high air flow. If the T-body motor fails, this can be ONE of the DTCs, but will be accompanied by a few others. In this instance, the P2173 is a symptom and not the cause.


If P2173 is a solo, then yes I would go after a leak.

 

OK! I am going to share my journey on this etc issue. I have a 2008 chrysler sebring 2.4 liter. I purchased this vehicle in 2010, and it has been fairly reliable. A couple years after purchase I had the etc light come on and go into limp mode (30 MPH max). hooked up the scan tool to find low voltage. Replaced the battery and haven't had the issue until about a month ago. I began to look at some things, and noticed I needed a new air cleaner and I cleaned the mass air flow sensor. After Starting and stopping the engine and few times, it came out of it. I forgot to mention that there were no stored codes. So, on Friday, my wife calls me and tells me that "it's doing it again". I told her to turn on the flashers and floor it. Call me when you get home. (Just 5 miles out of town). I decided to change the throttle body this time to see if this would fix the problem. It didn't, go figure. I got in it this morning, 13 degrees, and started it up and rev'd the engine for awhile. Drove it down the road, floored at 30 MPH. Got it back in the Garage and turned it off. went back in the house for about 10 minutes, and went back out and fired it up. it rev'd up to 2000 rpm right away. I knew right then that it came out of it. I have read quite a few posts about cold weather and batteries. I am wondering if these electronics are so sensitive when it comes to voltage. I'm not an electrical engineer, but when this issue comes and goes, I have a hard time understanding how it can be mechanical or electrical components. Now that it's working, I am going to monitor the situation. Everything seems normal, so I'm not afraid to drive it.

 

Speaking from experience -I own several Grand Cherokees and a Ram in addition to my Avenger-, FCA vehicles are incredibly fussy with regard to electronics. A slightly tired battery can cause havoc. Poor connections/corrosion can cause things to not work or work poorly.That aspect should be on each troubleshooting list.

 

Hey guys, just wanted to throw my experience in and what I did to fix it...
Fitst off, i did the key dance (on-acc-on-acc-on) and looked into the codes that popped up.(P2173, P2118, P0884, & P2110) So I stayed guessing pretty much, and ended buying a brand new throttle body (about $220) I figured out that I needed to replace the gas pedal because it has a throttle sensor on it. I got it off an 08 caliber (is interchangeable) from a pick and pull place for $6 (around $100 brand new)
and yes I tried the old TB worth the new pedal, still threw codes.
so at the end of the day, I had a new TB installed, and replaced the gas pedal, then I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes to erase the codes and..... so far so good... will try to update father down the road.

 

Where did you get the replacement part? My wife's car is at 99k miles. Haven't seen these issues yet, but anything can happen.

It won't fix a bad throttle valve, but it may be worth your while to make a ground wire for the throttle valve. I put one on the wife's car. Main difference I notice is that the car doesn't hesitate off idle like it used to.

 

So since I started driving my wife's car since she took the new vehicle. I have been having the same problems as everyone else on here. Some days nothing happens and some days the throttle body light will come on and if the engine goes over 3k rpm than I loss all power and have to pull over. And when I do pull over I put the car in park and the engine just shakes to I turn it off. So I have already replaced the throttle body last week. And yesterday I replaced the gas pedal. Should be good right? Nope the darn light came on again but I didn't lose power or have to pull over. WTF is going on.

Do I replace the spark plugs now or maybe the fuel injectors?

When I replaced the throttle body I forgot to plug it in. So when I started it the check engine light came on . So I went in and had the codes read and they were both for the throttle body which I kinda thought they would be. But no other codes. I have a 132,500 miles on it. What else should I do?

 

I thought it fixed on my wife's car also. But I couldn't figure a damn thing out. I ended up taking to the dealer and it's been there 6 weeks, and they're still trying to figure it out....

by the way, since you replaced the throttle body, it needs to go to the dealer to get calibrated.

Ill be be sure to post back if the dealer can figure out what's going on with mine

 

If your car is there for 6 weeks I'd go get it. They are just having someone plug it in and look at it between projects. No real "work" being done. If they can't solve it in a week (too long IMHO) take it elsewhere. Since I also have Jeeps, one thing we Jeep people have noticed is the relative battery strength is a big issue. Have that tested.

 

I changed my TB about 2.5 years ago. Still good.

 

It's been about 2.5 years. I got it on Ebay. $200 for new OEM.
p/n 0489 1735 AC for 2011 Avenger


Based on my experience and others comments.... if you suspect an electronics issue, have your battery checked, and maybe just replace it.
$100-150? is a bunch, but it's less than that first trip to the dealer.