Replacing rear axle oil seals, 88 Ram
#1
Replacing rear axle oil seals, 88 Ram
1988 Dodge Ram D100, rear (2 wheel, obviously) drive. Just changed differential fluid about a month ago....now my drivers side rear wheel is leaking gear oil...thought it was a blown brake cylinder .... much would have preferred that. Would like any advice on this job, including:
1. Should I go ahead and do BOTH rear wheels....is the failure of the other seal imminent???....starting to get over cracking this differential open.
2. If I clean up the rear brake shoes (they are soaked in gear oil), can they be reused, or do I need to buy new ones??...and, yes, I pretty much already know the answer to this one....
3. Should I go ahead and do the bearing while I am in there?? How much harder is that......
Looks like I have a basic limited slip differential....
Thx [SEAL!] in advance....Mike
1. Should I go ahead and do BOTH rear wheels....is the failure of the other seal imminent???....starting to get over cracking this differential open.
2. If I clean up the rear brake shoes (they are soaked in gear oil), can they be reused, or do I need to buy new ones??...and, yes, I pretty much already know the answer to this one....
3. Should I go ahead and do the bearing while I am in there?? How much harder is that......
Looks like I have a basic limited slip differential....
Thx [SEAL!] in advance....Mike
#2
The brake shoes should be replaced. Are you positive the differential is not over filled as this can make the seals leak? Seals go when seals go. I would replace the bearing while I was in there. 22 years is a long time. I Would do both sides if you can afford it as I would hate to replace the brakes just to have it happen again. The bearing is exposed after you pull the axle so it is just a matter of pulling it out with a slide hammer or bearing puller and driving in a new one.
You probably have one of the more common Chrysler rears where the axles are held in by a C-clip so the differential must be drained (again).
You do not have to drain the differential to repair the seal or replace the bearing if it is a Dana 60 or 70 because they have free floating axles. When you jack up that side the fluid will flow away from that end.
You probably have one of the more common Chrysler rears where the axles are held in by a C-clip so the differential must be drained (again).
You do not have to drain the differential to repair the seal or replace the bearing if it is a Dana 60 or 70 because they have free floating axles. When you jack up that side the fluid will flow away from that end.
#3
The brake shoes should be replaced. Are you positive the differential is not over filled as this can make the seals leak? Seals go when seals go. I would replace the bearing while I was in there. 22 years is a long time. I Would do both sides if you can afford it as I would hate to replace the brakes just to have it happen again. The bearing is exposed after you pull the axle so it is just a matter of pulling it out with a slide hammer or bearing puller and driving in a new one.
You probably have one of the more common Chrysler rears where the axles are held in by a C-clip so the differential must be drained (again).
You do not have to drain the differential to repair the seal or replace the bearing if it is a Dana 60 or 70 because they have free floating axles. When you jack up that side the fluid will flow away from that end.
You probably have one of the more common Chrysler rears where the axles are held in by a C-clip so the differential must be drained (again).
You do not have to drain the differential to repair the seal or replace the bearing if it is a Dana 60 or 70 because they have free floating axles. When you jack up that side the fluid will flow away from that end.
I would think it near impossible to overfill my differential as it just has that rubber plug in the hole on the back side...or am I missing something here??
#5
No problem removing the axles...the bearings on the drivers side literally fell out - lots of rust and debris coming out of both sides.
Any suggestions on how to
a) clean up the actual axles and
b) clean out the axle tubes....they are filthy....
I am going to go ahead and replace the bearings, seals, brake shoes and cylinders on both sides and (hopefully) be done with the rear end for GOOD!!! I am holding out hope that the "clunk" I get when putting it into drive may improve after the bearing replacement....we'll see....
Any suggestions on how to
a) clean up the actual axles and
b) clean out the axle tubes....they are filthy....
I am going to go ahead and replace the bearings, seals, brake shoes and cylinders on both sides and (hopefully) be done with the rear end for GOOD!!! I am holding out hope that the "clunk" I get when putting it into drive may improve after the bearing replacement....we'll see....
#6
The driver's side axle (yes, the axle itself) has wear on the portion that made contact with the bearings....and some rust behind the bearing (on the differential side) as well as rust on the other side of the bearings. The wear is to the point where I can actually feel (almost takes some imagination, but it IS there) some uneven wear on the axle. Should I
1. Get a rear end out of another truck or
2. Get an axle out of another truck...
3. Go forward and use the axles I have.
I am thinking this uneven wear could also be the source of the vibrations I am getting when at cruising speed.....
I lean toward 2. since it shouldn't require too much additional work.
Your thoughts??
Thx, Mike
1. Get a rear end out of another truck or
2. Get an axle out of another truck...
3. Go forward and use the axles I have.
I am thinking this uneven wear could also be the source of the vibrations I am getting when at cruising speed.....
I lean toward 2. since it shouldn't require too much additional work.
Your thoughts??
Thx, Mike
#7
Only an actual measurement will tell if it is bad enough to require replacement. #1 may get you a whole new set of problems. I would lean toward option #2. The diameter of the axle is pretty small so that slight wear would not cause much vibration. I think you have located the vibration, with a bearing as bad as you said this one was.