2010 Big Horn Hemi: sizing winter rim/tires
#1
2010 Big Horn Hemi: sizing winter rim/tires
Folks -
I bought a new 2010 Ram 1500 Hemi Quad Cab 4x4, Big Horn last Friday.
Love it so far.
It replaced my '06 2500 Cummins Ram single axle, quad cab, 4x4.
My new truck came with the gigantic 275/60/20 Wranglers HPs on chrome rims. Cool looking, but not so cool driving for winter here in Central NY.
I am planning to buy another set of (ideally factory) alloy rims with TPMS sensors, with dedicated tires to take me from November 1 of each year through April 1 of the following year.
I just measured my tires, and they seem to stand about 32" tall in the driveway. I'd like whatever I buy to read about the same on the speedometer..........
Can anyone tell me what to look for in terms of rim/size, and how far back I can go in model years and still assure proper fitment: factory 18"?, factory 17"?
Thanks-Mawgie
I bought a new 2010 Ram 1500 Hemi Quad Cab 4x4, Big Horn last Friday.
Love it so far.
It replaced my '06 2500 Cummins Ram single axle, quad cab, 4x4.
My new truck came with the gigantic 275/60/20 Wranglers HPs on chrome rims. Cool looking, but not so cool driving for winter here in Central NY.
I am planning to buy another set of (ideally factory) alloy rims with TPMS sensors, with dedicated tires to take me from November 1 of each year through April 1 of the following year.
I just measured my tires, and they seem to stand about 32" tall in the driveway. I'd like whatever I buy to read about the same on the speedometer..........
Can anyone tell me what to look for in terms of rim/size, and how far back I can go in model years and still assure proper fitment: factory 18"?, factory 17"?
Thanks-Mawgie
#2
The next morning after getting the new 2010 Ram, I swapped out the factory HP's for a set of Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60 R20. Read a ton of good wright ups and 5/5 stars on Belle Tire's web-site. With $115x4 credit for the stockers it ran me just over $300 installed. I'm in Michigan where I drive 3.5+hrs north all winter in some very nasty stuff. I'm look'n forwad to these. I've been to Tug Hill and Old Forge a few times and or UP and NW lower see's that type of snow. I've had 2 other Rams and the factory HP's just plain suck in everything but dry pavement. The new one's are 33.3in tall and I forget how wide... but made the truck look like a truck.
#5
Join Date: Aug 2009
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my stock tires made it through one of the worst winters in iowa with no problems. I was able to get where I needed to go without getting stuck once, and that included driving though two foot snow drifts and on solid ice covered roads. Its like randomdef said if you cant drive a 4x4 with all season tires then walk.
#6
#7
Thanks for the input, folks. I'm quite sure I can get where I am going with the stock Wrangler HPs on the 20" factory chrome rims.
I should have been more specific. My objectives are to to dramatically IMPROVE winter driving traction, and also take the chromes off to spare them from the brutality of winter road conditions and the chemicals applied to the roads here in Upstate NY.
For example, on my '06 2500 Cummins Ram, I replaced the stock Michelien LTXs with Cooper Discover ATRs when the Michelins wore out. The Coopers have a more open pattern, and the truck went much, miuch better in wet snow and the type of mud and slop I occasionally encounter when field hunting for geese, which calls for driving on wet, rutted field laneways.
I found some factory 18s on CL, brand new takeoffs, but the guy is asking $500 per, and I don't know (yet) if that is with the TPMS sensors. Sounds a little steep.
I should have been more specific. My objectives are to to dramatically IMPROVE winter driving traction, and also take the chromes off to spare them from the brutality of winter road conditions and the chemicals applied to the roads here in Upstate NY.
For example, on my '06 2500 Cummins Ram, I replaced the stock Michelien LTXs with Cooper Discover ATRs when the Michelins wore out. The Coopers have a more open pattern, and the truck went much, miuch better in wet snow and the type of mud and slop I occasionally encounter when field hunting for geese, which calls for driving on wet, rutted field laneways.
I found some factory 18s on CL, brand new takeoffs, but the guy is asking $500 per, and I don't know (yet) if that is with the TPMS sensors. Sounds a little steep.
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#9
Here's what I did to my 2010 Big Horn for winter driving here in Alaska - Got some cheap steel factory 17" rims and TPMS sensors and put on a set of Bridgestone Blizzaks. Stick with a factory size tire (I went with 265/70R-17) and have the dealer reset the pinion factor with their scan tool. My dealer told me it's an easy adjustment if you stick with a factory tire size, otherwise it's kinda a PITA.
Yes, you can get around with all-seasons, but you will notice a HUGE improvement with a real winter tire. I'm not talking about getting stuck, I'm talking about when it really matters, like the stopping power of a good studless tire on ice. I really like my Blizzaks and I've also driven a vehicle with Michelin X-Ice's which seemed to perform just as well. I've driven with studded tires too which are a definite improvement over all-seasons, but I like the new studless tires more. Hope this helps.
EDIT: Just to add a little information - the Blizzaks and X-Ice studless winter tires I mentioned have a gummy rubber tread which helps them grip the ice better. Tire Rack has some good reading on them. Here's a link comparing a Blizzak studless winter tire to both all-seasons and a summer tire. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=116
Yes, you can get around with all-seasons, but you will notice a HUGE improvement with a real winter tire. I'm not talking about getting stuck, I'm talking about when it really matters, like the stopping power of a good studless tire on ice. I really like my Blizzaks and I've also driven a vehicle with Michelin X-Ice's which seemed to perform just as well. I've driven with studded tires too which are a definite improvement over all-seasons, but I like the new studless tires more. Hope this helps.
EDIT: Just to add a little information - the Blizzaks and X-Ice studless winter tires I mentioned have a gummy rubber tread which helps them grip the ice better. Tire Rack has some good reading on them. Here's a link comparing a Blizzak studless winter tire to both all-seasons and a summer tire. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=116
Last edited by Caffeine; 08-03-2010 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Added some info
#10
Here's what I did to my 2010 Big Horn for winter driving here in Alaska - Got some cheap steel factory 17" rims and TPMS sensors and put on a set of Bridgestone Blizzaks. Stick with a factory size tire (I went with 265/70R-17) and have the dealer reset the pinion factor with their scan tool. My dealer told me it's an easy adjustment if you stick with a factory tire size, otherwise it's kinda a PITA.
Yes, you can get around with all-seasons, but you will notice a HUGE improvement with a real winter tire. I'm not talking about getting stuck, I'm talking about when it really matters, like the stopping power of a good studless tire on ice. I really like my Blizzaks and I've also driven a vehicle with Michelin X-Ice's which seemed to perform just as well. I've driven with studded tires too which are a definite improvement over all-seasons, but I like the new studless tires more. Hope this helps.
Yes, you can get around with all-seasons, but you will notice a HUGE improvement with a real winter tire. I'm not talking about getting stuck, I'm talking about when it really matters, like the stopping power of a good studless tire on ice. I really like my Blizzaks and I've also driven a vehicle with Michelin X-Ice's which seemed to perform just as well. I've driven with studded tires too which are a definite improvement over all-seasons, but I like the new studless tires more. Hope this helps.