Any tricks to remove the axle hub nut? Whats the best way to cut it off?
#1
Any tricks to remove the axle hub nut? Whats the best way to cut it off?
Used a 3 ft. breaker bar and jumped on it (I'm 290 lbs), and tried to use a 300 ft/lb hammer wrench and neither budged it. I DID get the other one off fairly easily (the drivers side).
I soaked it in PB Blaster for 2 days and stuff too- NOTHING. I also tried to tighten it and then untighten it (and back and foreth with the hammer wrench since sometimes "tightening" it can break it loose- nothing)
So In lou of trying to find someone that has a 400 or 450 ft/lb hammer wrench, since I'm not going to go buy one just for this when I already have a 300 which has served me well in everything I've ever done, Does anyone have any suggestions before I try cutting it off?
Is it common place to need more than 300 ft/lb to get those off? They are only torque specced to 170?
If I have to cut it off, whats the best way to do it, and does anyone know where you can buy a new one / what its officially called from the dealer? (I checked autozone, Oreilly, and some local places- noone has the same one, but Oreilly has a different one they said will work (doesnt use the cotter pin)
Thanks!
I soaked it in PB Blaster for 2 days and stuff too- NOTHING. I also tried to tighten it and then untighten it (and back and foreth with the hammer wrench since sometimes "tightening" it can break it loose- nothing)
So In lou of trying to find someone that has a 400 or 450 ft/lb hammer wrench, since I'm not going to go buy one just for this when I already have a 300 which has served me well in everything I've ever done, Does anyone have any suggestions before I try cutting it off?
Is it common place to need more than 300 ft/lb to get those off? They are only torque specced to 170?
If I have to cut it off, whats the best way to do it, and does anyone know where you can buy a new one / what its officially called from the dealer? (I checked autozone, Oreilly, and some local places- noone has the same one, but Oreilly has a different one they said will work (doesnt use the cotter pin)
Thanks!
#6
just FYI 290 # on 3 ft bar is 870 ft-lbs so 450 ft-lbs impact may not be what you need. My mech. could not break mine with a 3/4" drive snap-on impact so he used an 8 ft pipe on a 1" drive breaker bar to break it free. In your case 8 ft would net you almost 2400 ft-lbs, but be carefull of tool breakage!
#7
my pass side came off easy with a 3/4" socket and a short breaker bar, but the drivers side was hell, i acually broke the 3/4" socket wrench. get an oxy/aced torch with a good size tip and heat it to cherry red, like stated above, i did this and it came off with a 1/2" socket and a 2' breaker bar
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#8
#9
Nut is not reuseable is it? I know the 2wd is not. Its got that nylock end to it. If so, don't drive home with the old one. Try Mopar rust penetrant, it literally dissolves rust in seconds.
I used a 6 foot pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar and it let loose quickly. The HD version of the Ram is torqued to 280 ft/lbs, the light duty is 185 ft/lbs.
I used a 6 foot pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar and it let loose quickly. The HD version of the Ram is torqued to 280 ft/lbs, the light duty is 185 ft/lbs.