Hello everybody, I am a newbie and this is my first post here. I have done unsuccessful searches specific to my question so I am checking with you guys. I did a total rebuild on my 2.7 (99 Intrepid) 3 years ago. I just spun a rod bearing and need to replace the rod (along with crankshaft, bearings, oil & water pump,ect.) Anyway, I just pulled and replaced my heads and would love to avoid that, so my question is has anyone just eased the piston down far enough to remove the snap pin and wrist pin (from below)to replace the rod? Without the pan off and crank removed I can't really tell the exact "working room" available, but studying the drawings in the service manual seems to encourage me. I guess I will find out this weekend one way or another, but was curious if any other members tried this particular approach. It sure would save time and cost of head gaskets and perhaps head bolts. Sincere thanks for any info on this, I appreciate your time.

 

Well the answer is no. Had to pull both heads, but that allowed me to do a more thorough oil passage flush. Engine running well, car is on the road again. Rebuild went good with no issues other than a leaking coolant outlet connector. Bad thing was it was leaking down into the "hidden valley" between the block and heads so the coolant was coming out a little hole behind the flexplate, just like a bad rear freeze plug. Unfortunately I determined that after separating engine/tranny and removing the flexplate, (which I had just done the day before when I installed the new crank). The leaking coolant outlet connector actually looked eroded inside compared to the new part so that might be an item to closely check if you have it off. Anyway cruising again!

 

is there any tricks to preventing spun rod bearings. I have 5 intrepids sitting here waiting for rebuilds I want to prevent any future failure. maybe drill put passages bigger?

 

That seems to be the big question, Sapporo. I totally rebuilt the motor 3 years ago when I bought the car (water pump failure/slipped time) and checked the block for casting flash, removed all that I saw. Not really too much. Reading so much about over-heated oil, I installed an aftermarket oil cooler and between it and the additional hoses the crankcase holds 7 quarts of oil. That totally solved the cooked oil/sludge problem. Recently,my son over-revved the engine cold and developed a severe rod knock. Teardown revealed #3 & #4 rod bearings really worn to the point I had to replace their rods and the crank. Bearing material was embedded in all bearings and both rod and main journals displayed deep scratches. Bearing material was also found throughout the heads and block so those needed extreme cleaning. That aside, there was zero sludge after 60,000 post-rebuild miles and no brown staining. But what about the last rod bearing failure? Is 60,000 "as good as it gets"? 3000 oil change interval too long? One thing I am doing different this time. I have been using full synthetic 5-30 and it just seems like water so from now on I will run 4 quarts full synthetic 5-30 and 3 quarts Valvoline 50w Racing oil. We'll see.

Good info here if you haven't see this: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...ysler_27l.aspx

 

I'm so glad I have a 3.2... lol sorry guys. I just don't read much about them on here, which is a good thing. I am still giving out my respect for your valiant work to keep your more fuel efficient 2.7s working!

 

I just got my 2.7 apart and found #3 bearing spun. NO sludge what so ever in the motor. I've seen a lot of posts about #3 or 4 bearing failure. Now the question is WHY??? I had the oil tested, No antifreeze. Oil passes viscosity test. there was a lot of metal in the oil (as expected on an engine with spun bearing. What is the cause and correction to fix this bearing issue?