I have an odd problem that just happened a couple days ago. My clutch pedal lost pressure and i found myself unable to shift into gears with the engine on. I have all gears when the engine is off. When I turn the truck on in neutral it is fine but i am unable to shift into a gear. If it try to start off in a gear, the truck jumps forward with the pedal all the way to the floor. By reading, it sounded like my clutch master cylinder and my slave cylinder. Since I found no leaks, I went ahead and changed my slave cylinder. That didnt fix the problem, so i changed my clutch master cylinder today. That didnt fix the problem either. I have fluid in the system and even bled the lines. I have invested 3 days and $140 already. I just want to fix the issue so I can put it in gear and drive away. Oh i also looked and i didnt find any metal near any where near the clutch. it just seems more like a clutch pedal issue than anything else.

 

Have someone else step on the clutch pedal, while you watch and see what happens at the trans. If it looks like the hydraulics are working correctly.... time to drop the trans, and check out the clutch fork, and throwout bearing. (and possibly the pressure plate....)

 

i dont see how that would affect pedal pressure though since they are not connected. the gears work...that was replaced last year. as of 2 days ago, i was able to start it in 2nd gear and drive...since replacing the slave and master cylinder, i havent been able to do that

 

i have all my gears...it is a pedal issue...it feels like pushing down on the parking break after it is engaged already...if that gives you a better idea of what im getting at

 

The hydraulics just press on the clutch fork. If the fork is out of place, it won't move the throwout bearing, so, no clutch disengagement. If the throwout bearing blew itself apart..... same symptoms. On consideration though, I don't think its the pressure plate.

Need to verify that your hydraulics are actually doing what they are supposed to be. Should be a fair bit of travel on the slave....

Also, bleeding them out is a major pain in the keester. As you are trying to force air DOWN, when it really doesn't wanna go that way......

 

well i tested if fluid is being forced down to the slave and it does go through the line (as i found out after making a mess)...its a brand new slave...i felt inside to see what the piston on the slave would be touching and felt what i am guessing to be the fork? so the pressure is there and there is pressure in the slave...pressure in the line...brand new clutch master...pressure there too...just no pressure in the pedal...doesnt make much sense

 

May still have an air bubble in there.

Try this trick.......

Take the slave off the trans. Get it ABOVE the master. Put something around it so you can't blow the rod/piston out of the slave. Crack the bleeder valve on the slave, and hold your finger over it while someone else pumps the pedal. I am going to guess you will get some more air out...

 

just bled it again...i can hear bubbles in there...still no pressure...bleeder valve? I was just taking the hose off

 

i have no bleeder valve on my clutch slave cylinder

Update: Fixed it...yay...clutch works again!!!

 

for anyone else that is running into the same problem as me, here is a step by step of what i did to bleed it with out a bleeder valve (seems that there isn't one present)...I will also start you off from not making the mistake i did of installing the slave before the master cylinder for bleeding purposes:

Remove both the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is pretty easy to remove and requires a flat head screw driver. Pop the holding pin off the clutch pedal (kinda tricky). Remove the pin and washer and set aside for later use. remove the cylinder piston from the pedal. Unplug the electrical connector. Now, go under the hood and and remove the master cylinder from the firewall (this may require a little twisting but a 45 degree turn should suffice). you will now see a tube going to the reservoir and a tube leading underneath the truck. If the reservoir is empty, then pry the tube off your CMC. if it is full, I found it easier to remove the reservoir and empty its contents into a cup then prying it off my CMC (just saves from creating a mess). Remove the tube from the back of the CMC that leads underneath the truck. You will notice you still have your electrical connector still on the CMC. Since I had some trouble getting this off, I just used a flat head to pretty much destroy what was left of my CMC. If you find a better way of doing this, then good luck. Also, there will still be fluid in the CMC, so be prepared for some spillage. Now, reattach the new CMC. Don't forget to put all the parts onto the piston before inserting it (foam washer and electrical connector. Insert all the tubes and reattach the reservoir. Do not fill up your reservoir yet or you will end up with a mess. Now, to the slave. Go ahead and grab a 1/2" socket wrench, a 3/16 - 1/4 pin pusher, a small hammer, and a cup. The CSC will be located on the driver side of the clutch/transmission. Remove the bolts holding the slave. You might have some fluid come out so wear glasses! Now pop out the holder pin where the hose is attached. Before removing the tube, grab your cup to catch any remaining fluid in the line. Remove the line and let it drain into the cup. A suggestion would be to clean any fluid up around the line and transmission just in case you want to check for leaks when bleeding. Now, a step I failed to do first. Have a buddy handy! While under the car, ask him to fill the reservoir full of DOT 3. Leaving the cap off. Here is where it gets to be a pain. Ask him to hold the clutch down, make sure the cup is catching fluid. Put your finger of the hold on the line and ask him to let the clutch up. Now remove your finger and ask him to press it down again catching the fluid in the cup. Repeat by putting your finger over the line hole and ask him to let up again (this is just keeping air from being sucked back in). Have him check the reservoir to make sure it isn't empty (this is very important as you don't want to have to repeat this whole process over). Add some fluid if needed. Repeat the step until you don't have air and liquid blowing out of the line. You should have a nice flow. When you get to the flow part, it is important to have your friend keep the clutch down while you install the new CSC (keeps pressure in the system). Now attached the tube to the new CSC (you can hammer the holder pin easily). Cut off your plastic holding the piston (leave cap on piston and make sure you are holding it in). Now this may take some strength but place CSC into position and push it as far as you can to the tranny. If it is easy to push then you still have no pressure. Attach the screws (I found that I had to hold one had on the CSC, pushing it towards tranny while I used my other hand to get one of the bolts started). Once, you are able to get both bolts started, tighten the bolts to the tranny. Then, while your friend still has the clutch in, put the top back on the reservoir and tighten it tightly. Ask your friend to let off. You should pump your clutch a few times to make sure you have pressure. If you have pressure then go have a beer. I estimate that this project should take about an hour at most. My truck has a slight lift, so I didnt use jack stands or ramps. I HIGHLY recommend lifting the truck up! I had no room to work which was a pain in the rear.

Good Luck!