Well since I did my trans swap I felt like the engine has not been putting out 100%. I also noticed if I get on it hard I get a spark knock or a pinging. So I went down to where I use to work and hooked up there matco scan tool to check the fuel sync. It said it was -17 and the scanner said it should be at 0. So I thought maybe some how the dizzy got tuned when the trans was out I don’t know. So I set the dizzy to 0 with the scan tool. As soon as I pulled out I noticed a big diff, though all was good till I got mile or so up the road and I was getting the spark knock or pinging again. It was really bad this time. Got back to the house and truck was barely running by then. Wont idle, knocking like crazy just did not know was going on. But I did get a code out of it. P1391 Lost of cam or crank sensor. I pulled the crank sensor and it had a crack on it. So I bought a new one and install it. I got my buddy snap on MT2500 scan tool to set the fuel sync. It was way off again. Run good for week or two still don’t think it has the power it should. Then the other day I was driving and between shift it pop out the intake and I just about lost everything truck was acting like the cat clung up again, would not rev up and started to overheat. So I got it home and drop the y pipe, nope not it. So I got the snap on scanner again and it said it was -21 off now so I turned and again to 0. After I did that I was checking codes and other stuff. Went back to the fuel sync mins later and it was at -15. So I am lost now have no idea what’s going on. Why does it keep changing on me.

Some background info on the trans swap. I had a donor truck same year and all only diff was the trans and motor was a 360. I use the wiring hardness off the other truck. I had a new pcm order for mine so my vin was in it and was tuned for the 318.

 

Where did you get your crank sensor? These trucks really don't seem to like aftermarket parts in critical locations. (cam and crank sensor particularly)

Is the dist turning? Clamp not holding? Once set, fuel sync should be fixed......

How does your timing chain look?? Ever replaced it? How many miles on the truck?

 

I got the crank sensor at napa. The clamp is holding fine i try moving it after i set it and would not turn.

I had to replace the motor with a long block about 20,000 ago so timing chain should be like new.

 

a long block? what did you put in it? the 318 and 360's are short blocks


and i just did my timing chain, and all i can say is do it...its not expensive and very easy....i noticed alot more peformance/gas milage....

i ue to get 40-50 miles per quarter tank.....hollowed cat, new harmoic balancer, new timing chain, new front seal......i just got 75 miles to a quarter tank, and thats ALL city..could have gone further, but i put gas in again... (quarter of a tank i say, but this was on $25 of gas on each run)

and the performance difference is awesome,goes like a new truck, and i have just about 208K

 

Long block means the motor had heads, a cam, with the block and rotating assembly ect. A short block is just the block and rotating assembly.

 

Interesting you did mention any fluctuation when monitoring the syn? You want to bring the RPM'S up to 1k to take up any valvetrain fluctuation.

 

learn something new everyday

 

The scan tool idle the motor to 1000rpm for you.

 

Not with the mt2500 thats the unit we use at the shop. What cartridges and keys are you using?

 

I not sure what cartridges and keys there are, my buddy said there the most up to date ones. And yes it dose idle the motor up because as soon you click yes for fuel sync the motor revs to 1000 rpm.