99 durango 5.9 4X4 SLT ABS sensor questions
#1
99 durango 5.9 4X4 SLT ABS sensor questions
Well I'm back I figured I'd start a new thread instead of keep adding on to the other. If searched the forums and have tried everything I found.
I'm still trying to get rid of my ABS / Brake light , light problem.
From what I found posted the front wheel speed sensors should ohm out at around 1K ohms. Does anyone know what the range is for them.
My right front wheel sensor is 1028 ohms.The left is 1032 ohms are these still in range or are they too high? does it have to be 1k or less?
I pulled the rear diff cover and drained out all the old oil.
I looked it over inside while I had the cover off and everything looked like it was in good shape. I didn't see any loose metal pieces or metal shavings in the oil that drained out.
I wiped it all down inside with a nice clean lint free cloth and then made a new gasket with some gray ATV sealent and bolted it back together. Since I have a limited slip I added the 4oz of Equa-torque and filled it up to the proper level.
I had changed out the rear speed sensor located on the top of the rear diff. in the hopes that would get rid of my ABS / brake light lights.
Like I mentioned in the other thread I had read it should ohm out at 2K ohms. When I measured mine it showed open. I replaced it with a new one and it also shows open. When I went back to the store to return it I measured all of the 3 they had on the shelf and they all showed open. I even went to another store and checked a new sensor made by a different manufacturer and it showed open. Are we sure that they are supposed to read 2K ohms.
I took the Durango to a shop to have some other work done and asked them to see if they could read the ABS System.
They were able to borrow a reader and the following codes were stored in the ABS system 65,37,35,21. I'm trying to look them up to find out what they are. I 'm wondering if when I unplugged the front right and left sensors as well as the rear and the output speed sensor on the trans. if it tripped something and just needs to be reset. Any thoughts on that from the experts?
Just incase you pros might know the codes before I can find them do you know what they are?
Thanks for your time
BH
I'm still trying to get rid of my ABS / Brake light , light problem.
From what I found posted the front wheel speed sensors should ohm out at around 1K ohms. Does anyone know what the range is for them.
My right front wheel sensor is 1028 ohms.The left is 1032 ohms are these still in range or are they too high? does it have to be 1k or less?
I pulled the rear diff cover and drained out all the old oil.
I looked it over inside while I had the cover off and everything looked like it was in good shape. I didn't see any loose metal pieces or metal shavings in the oil that drained out.
I wiped it all down inside with a nice clean lint free cloth and then made a new gasket with some gray ATV sealent and bolted it back together. Since I have a limited slip I added the 4oz of Equa-torque and filled it up to the proper level.
I had changed out the rear speed sensor located on the top of the rear diff. in the hopes that would get rid of my ABS / brake light lights.
Like I mentioned in the other thread I had read it should ohm out at 2K ohms. When I measured mine it showed open. I replaced it with a new one and it also shows open. When I went back to the store to return it I measured all of the 3 they had on the shelf and they all showed open. I even went to another store and checked a new sensor made by a different manufacturer and it showed open. Are we sure that they are supposed to read 2K ohms.
I took the Durango to a shop to have some other work done and asked them to see if they could read the ABS System.
They were able to borrow a reader and the following codes were stored in the ABS system 65,37,35,21. I'm trying to look them up to find out what they are. I 'm wondering if when I unplugged the front right and left sensors as well as the rear and the output speed sensor on the trans. if it tripped something and just needs to be reset. Any thoughts on that from the experts?
Just incase you pros might know the codes before I can find them do you know what they are?
Thanks for your time
BH
#2
I had the same issue, but my assist pump ran constantly when the lights came on. This was even when the ignition was off. I was told by a shop the computer needed to be replaced. This is a pain because it has the optional 4 wheel ABS, it is very hard to find. The mechanic said that they had nitrogen in them to keep the computer cool and mine had leaked out. This would make sense since it happened when it was 95 degrees. Don't know if this helps you, hope it does.
#3
check here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
scroll to the bottom
so it looks to me like you have a couple of problems, iv never heard of the sensors being open but that first code (65) to me seems like the module might be bad, but check for an ABS relay before jumping on replacing the module (the relay is cheap, the module is not)
if i remember i will check my rwspeed sensor ohm reading tomorrow for you, but i dont believe any of them should be open.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
scroll to the bottom
(65,66) INTERNAL MAIN RELAY .
(37) INTERMITTENT SIGNAL FROM REAR
SENSOR.
(35) REAR SENSOR OPEN .
(21) RIGHT FRONT SENSOR OPEN
(37) INTERMITTENT SIGNAL FROM REAR
SENSOR.
(35) REAR SENSOR OPEN .
(21) RIGHT FRONT SENSOR OPEN
so it looks to me like you have a couple of problems, iv never heard of the sensors being open but that first code (65) to me seems like the module might be bad, but check for an ABS relay before jumping on replacing the module (the relay is cheap, the module is not)
if i remember i will check my rwspeed sensor ohm reading tomorrow for you, but i dont believe any of them should be open.
#4
#5
It is in the PDC (under the hood, drivers side mid fender, in the fuse box).
I would remove the 40 amp green fuse and relay hopefully reset the module, install a different relay with the same number and install a different fuse from a different location. (had to do this to my truck the other day after plugging into a shorted trailer).
Look at the underside of the box cover for a mirror diagram.
I would remove the 40 amp green fuse and relay hopefully reset the module, install a different relay with the same number and install a different fuse from a different location. (had to do this to my truck the other day after plugging into a shorted trailer).
Look at the underside of the box cover for a mirror diagram.
#6
#7
Just checked the fuse box.
I found the 40 amp fuse in the #9 spot labeled ABS .it looks good.
I didn't see any of the relays marked ABS. Would it be marked something different?
Wife told me last night when she got home that the lights went out on start up yesturday morning and stayed off until she got to the end of the driveway and she stepped on the breaks.
I'm begining to hate this thing.
I found the 40 amp fuse in the #9 spot labeled ABS .it looks good.
I didn't see any of the relays marked ABS. Would it be marked something different?
Wife told me last night when she got home that the lights went out on start up yesturday morning and stayed off until she got to the end of the driveway and she stepped on the breaks.
I'm begining to hate this thing.
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#9
Code 65 - Internal main relay open
2002 Durango SLT, 5.9L Magnum
Haven’t seen any questions or comments on this post for some years, but I just had the problem myself and figured someone else has to experience it sooner or later so heres what I found.... Abs and brake lights would intermittently turn on. There was never a check engine light. Brakes felt like you had to push down too far to engage. Pulled a code 65 “Internal main relay open”. The relay is inside the ABS module. This failure is usually related to a defect on PC board located inside module. Module is obsolete by Dodge and was about $800 anyway. I found a shop (Circuit Board Medics) that does repairs on this board with a 1 day turn around for $130 plus 2 way shipping costs. I pulled to module, sent it to them, they returned in 1 day and my problem was resolved after reinstall. You don't have to worry about programming either because its already programmed to your vehicle. I would recommend them for the problem based on my satisfied experience.Good Luck and hope it solves your problem.
https://circuitboardmedics.com
Haven’t seen any questions or comments on this post for some years, but I just had the problem myself and figured someone else has to experience it sooner or later so heres what I found.... Abs and brake lights would intermittently turn on. There was never a check engine light. Brakes felt like you had to push down too far to engage. Pulled a code 65 “Internal main relay open”. The relay is inside the ABS module. This failure is usually related to a defect on PC board located inside module. Module is obsolete by Dodge and was about $800 anyway. I found a shop (Circuit Board Medics) that does repairs on this board with a 1 day turn around for $130 plus 2 way shipping costs. I pulled to module, sent it to them, they returned in 1 day and my problem was resolved after reinstall. You don't have to worry about programming either because its already programmed to your vehicle. I would recommend them for the problem based on my satisfied experience.Good Luck and hope it solves your problem.
https://circuitboardmedics.com
#10
So I've had the same issue except my abs and brake light don't come on until I get to about 60 mph. I've replaced all wheel speed sensors and the abs module itself and I did the same with differential. Inside mine though I have a couple teeth broken off the spider gear but don't feel that's my main issue.
anyways, was wondering if you'd found a solution bc the dang lights are making me nuts!
anyways, was wondering if you'd found a solution bc the dang lights are making me nuts!