Hey all.

Last week my Durango would not idle when started. Notably the weather has got a bit colder.
I assumed the auto choke was based on the coolant temperature, and as the coolant was low I topped it up which solved the problem for a couple of days. Topped it up to FULL last night, OK this morning, went to leave work around 6pm today and my baby wouldn't idle again.
I will check the coolant level in the morning to see if the level has dropped and then try and find the leak.
Any other well known issues jump to mind which could be causing this ? Once warm the truck is fine.
I get regular hissing from what I've been told is the Air Con valve after every journey, spitting out fluid, even when the air con hasn't been used in ages, not sure if that has any impact.

Any help as always gratefully received.

 

If there are no codes, it could be as simple as weak spark from worn out plugs. When were the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires changed last?

With the coolant leak; have you removed the pressure cap to check if the level was low and filled it from there or just refilling the reservoir? It’s also a good idea to change that cap every few years anyway, if the cap spring gets weak the coolant will boil at a lower temp.

Also, you might want to have your battery checked, a weak battery can cause idle/stalling issues.

 

Thaks for the swift response.

Do I need a code reader for a 2000 year ?

No idea on the cap, rotor et al, only had her since February. It just seems to have happened suddenly rather than progressive problems. Normally starts with the minutest of turns of the key.

I will check the pressure cap tomorrow. Should the coolant be right up to the cap ?

Cheers !

 

To get the codes; put the key into the ignition, then turn it to ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON and leave it on (don't go to start in this sequence) the codes will be in the odometer window.

Yes the coolant will be up to the cap, may even overflow a bit as you take the cap off. Do Not open hot! And give the hose a squeeze to make sure there isn't too much pressure behind it.
As far as symptoms starting suddenly.... they have to start sometime.

 

the two most common causes of stalling at idle are a bad battery (this is aggravated by the cold weather) and a bad IAC valve, i would start by replacing the battery if it is more than 3 years old

 

Checked the coolant today in the reservoir, had dropped a bit, but not as low as before.

Checked the fault code and got P0207. Injector #7 Control Circuit.

I believe my next course of action is :

Check all connections at said injector
Check battery connections for corrosion
Replace battery
Investigate TPS
Investigate IAC

Anything I've missed ?

Thanks once again !

 

[quote=Mart160plus;2648755]Checked the coolant today in the reservoir, had dropped a bit, but not as low as before.

Checked the fault code and got P0207. Injector #7 Control Circuit.

A good link to troubleshoot the code http://www.obd-codes.com/p0207

Did you check/ replace the pressure cap? If it's not holding pressure the coolant can boil, force through the reservoir and out the overflow then as the engine cools it pulls what it can back into the engine but may not pull enough to keep the system full.

A small leak in the head gasket that contacts the combustion chamber will force exhaust gasses into the coolant system, over pressurize it and can force quite a bit of coolant out of the engine. To check for this remove the pressure cap and see if it smells like exhaust (not while it's running), there may also be some black bits of carbon floating around. With this type of leak you won't get the milky oil.

 

Cleared the code.

Checked pressure cap, does seem to have some rust inside it but coolant is right up to the lip. Didn't smell like exhaust at all, and no black stuff floating around.
Think I should get the coolant completely changed next service, things shouldn't appear rusty in anyway (there is a curved rod under where the pressure cap goes inside the pipe that appeared rusty too).

Went to leave the house at 7.30am this morning, same problem, wouldn't idle (makes taking roundabouts a challange as I don't want to come to a halt). Idles fine when warm. Drove for 45 mins, 2 hour meeting, back in truck, started first time. No fault codes.

Next ports of call :

Check Coolant Temperature Sensor (seeing as this problem only occurs when it's cold)
Check battery voltage
Test ignition coil
Clean IAC
Check fuel pressure
Check Pre-Cat O2 sensor

 

That’s a good list. I would also replace the distributor cap/rotor and plugs since you have no idea when they were changed last and examine each plug as you pull it looking for excessive amounts of oil, deposits or signs of detonation.
When you check the battery: check it after it has sat for the night; the voltage should not be any less than 12.5v. If you have someone to help you, keep the leads on the battery and start the vehicle; the voltage should not drop less than 9.6v while cranking and should be 13.5v or so while idling. And clean, inspect and tighten the cables/terminals.

 

Usually a bad battery or a bad IAC.

If you replace the spark plugs use Champion Copper (yes the cheap ones). This could fix your injector code.