Instrument guages, cruise control, and horn
#1
03-10-2012, 12:04 AM
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Instrument guages, cruise control, and horn
It seems that my 2000 Caravan (3.3L V6 FlexFuel version) has developed electrical gremlins, including the dreaded "instrument guages work intermittently" problem. My check engine light is on (and stays on) and the code is complaining about "no CCD data from the PCM". As I drive around, the gauges go in & out. When they go out, I get the ABS light along with dead gauges. Also, when they go out, the controls for the back windshield wipers and back defroster don't work either.
As far as I can tell via the wiring diagrams in they Haynes manuals, these don't share any kind of common bus or connections other than the "instrument cluster ground" terminal. I'll be darned if I can find that to make sure it is solidly connected.
I have disassembled the instrument cluster and resoldered every connection I could get my fingers on, so I don't think that is the issue.
And today, I discovered that the horn and cruise control are not working any more (they did yesterday). I had them go out on me one other time, but that was due to the clockspring cable going out and I had that replaced under a recall. When the clock spring went out, I also got an airbag warning light and I'm not getting that this go around.
I've barked up several different trees trying to chase these gremlins down and I'm at my last nerve because I never know exactly how much fuel is in my tank other than "Well, I put a few bucks in the other day and I've driven about 20 miles, so its time to put more in".
Help?
As far as I can tell via the wiring diagrams in they Haynes manuals, these don't share any kind of common bus or connections other than the "instrument cluster ground" terminal. I'll be darned if I can find that to make sure it is solidly connected.
I have disassembled the instrument cluster and resoldered every connection I could get my fingers on, so I don't think that is the issue.
And today, I discovered that the horn and cruise control are not working any more (they did yesterday). I had them go out on me one other time, but that was due to the clockspring cable going out and I had that replaced under a recall. When the clock spring went out, I also got an airbag warning light and I'm not getting that this go around.
I've barked up several different trees trying to chase these gremlins down and I'm at my last nerve because I never know exactly how much fuel is in my tank other than "Well, I put a few bucks in the other day and I've driven about 20 miles, so its time to put more in".
Help?
#2
03-10-2012, 01:29 AM
The connector on the heater control panel has been known to overheat, deform the plastic holding the contacts and open the data bus circuit. This will kill your instrument panel. Probably the cause of your CCD data bus code and your dead rear wiper/defroster controls.
You likely have another bad clockspring assembly causing your dead horns and cruise. Just because the airbag light isn't on doesn't mean the clockspring is good. It's a free fix under a lifetime safety recall.
You likely have another bad clockspring assembly causing your dead horns and cruise. Just because the airbag light isn't on doesn't mean the clockspring is good. It's a free fix under a lifetime safety recall.
Last edited by Cougar41; 03-10-2012 at 03:53 AM.
#3
03-28-2012, 04:02 PM
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Solved, sort of.
The horn/cruise control was easy. I had apparently accidentally disconnected a connector on the steering column.
The instrument cluster is another issue. I have "solved" the problem by knocking around the power distribution center under the hood. While not a permanent fix, it shows me where the problem lies so if it ever goes out to the point where knocking the PDC around again wont fix it, I know where to start tearing into.
The horn/cruise control was easy. I had apparently accidentally disconnected a connector on the steering column.
The instrument cluster is another issue. I have "solved" the problem by knocking around the power distribution center under the hood. While not a permanent fix, it shows me where the problem lies so if it ever goes out to the point where knocking the PDC around again wont fix it, I know where to start tearing into.