OK, I have a few questions here. I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 ext. cab. with the V10. and Auto trans. It is emaciate, with only 103XXX mi on the whole truck. I have had it since 2007 or so. Win I bought it I was really looking for a diesel rig. but at the time they were still over 10k and I got this one for only 6k. Ben using only for towing my race car to the track in the summers. (hence the low mi.) Well it's a grate truck but the fuel MPG, SUCKS!! So just about 3 weeks ago I found the exact same truck, color and all accept it's the Cummings with a 5 speed. It only has 160k on it, but it's a bit of a beater. The add sed "needs TLC" well that turned out to be a understatement!! I knew from the get go it needed a heater core and brake work (probably bad brake booster) My plan was to strip out the nasty ratty interior, pull the dash, and heater/AC unit to replace the leaking heater core. Well apparently the heater core has been leaking along time, cuz I found allot of RUST every wair in the cab. The door hinges are shot, bed is beat to crap, front end is kinda wrecked and so on. My plan was to switch out the bad parts form the diesel one , and replace them with the better parts off the gas rig. Well as I dig deeper into the diesel unit, I am discovering a tun of work!!!!!
My queston is would it just be easier to swap the motor and trans from the diesel rig to the V10 gas rig??????? And if so is there a link on how to do it and what all needs to be swapped?????

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

 

No link that I know of. Lots of fab and fitting to do though if you do this.

 

Engine, Not sure if the trans will bolt up, and even if it does, if it will have the right shift points for the diesel....... you could do the engine AND trans, if you were so inclined?

But......

Engine.
Trans?
Engine wiring harness.
PCM.
Instrument cluster.
Clutch stuff if you swap the trans as well.
if you DON'T swap the trans, you will need a PCM for the auto.......

If you do the engine/trans, should be pretty straightforward.

 

Since you have the nv4500, it would be a shame and a waste NOT to put it in. It is a much superior transmission.

Should be a fairly simple swap, as HeyYou said. DO EET!

 

Is mounting the clutch pedal assembly pretty straight forward in these or is it pretty involved? On 1960's trucks it was a lot of work when I did a couple several decades ago......but maybe that was just the chevys....

 

Yes, it's a direct bolt in (from what I read at least, I plan ahead, and buy sticks in the first place ).


EDIT: Okay now I am reading that you might have to swap the manual pedal assembly onto the auto bracket, or something to that extent. Either way, tons of people have done it...

 

I am also thinking about this for the Dually, my thought was to do a body swap, But I am also concerned with the Arizona emissions clowns, they would be extremely confused.


Just a thought.....

 

The cost of buying a diesel set-up/donor truck, and the cost of whatever is needed to swap it, won't make up for the gas savings for a long time (re: I think someone figured around 5 years or so..???) Not worth it if you ask me. Sell your V10, and just buy a diesel truck.

 

swap shouldn't be to bad to do the motor and trans. Lot of work to get all the gauges working and such, but if its the same year of truck than there should be many electronics on that diesel because it would be the 12v P7100 pump on it which is all mechanical injection. would need to change motor and trans mounts, throttle cables, and the brain boxes between the trucks. fuel tank and lift pump need swapped. Even a few drops of gasoline in the fuel can cause the engine to run extremely hot, melt pistons, or cause a runaway diesel.

It's a lot of work, but its doable.

be much easier to just buy a good condition diesel truck and sell your v10 truck.

The diesel is definitely worth getting though! not only better fuel economy, but WAY more power potential and far more reliable. these engines are known to go up to 1,000,000 miles without a rebuild if you take care of them. as for performance the bottom ends are good for 800hp without needing to change pistons, rods, crank, or main bolts, etc... top ends just need studs, valve springs, HD push rods, and o-rings in the head if you plan to run over 70PSI of boost from large compound twins. but if you plan on that much power it wont be streetable either.

 

x2 go buy a 2002 cummins with a 6spd