2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

How to remove the valve body

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Old 11-06-2012, 03:30 PM
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Default How to remove the valve body

My car is a 2005 Dodge Neon, 4 speeds automatic transmission (41TE).
I'm going to remove the valve body, and have a look inside.
I need tips on how to remove it.
Let me know how heavy that thing is. I don't want it to fall on me.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:07 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-06-2012, 06:34 PM
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Why are you pulling the valve body? Its not heavy at all, seriously one hand on the valve body and pull the bolts. Have rags handy. I think those drain pans dont use gaskets, they use RTV. It may come with a gasket on it, but remove it and use black RTV.
 
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:00 AM
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It has something to do with downshifted to 2nd gear:
- When I slowed the car down enough, it downshift to 2nd gear.
- If I step on the gas petal right away, car will gain some speed, and slam into 3rd gear (a very harsh shift) at around 25-30 mph.
- If I don't step on the gas petal right away. It shifts normal.

It shifts fine If I started from 1st gear.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by I_Ride_Neon
Why are you pulling the valve body? Its not heavy at all, seriously one hand on the valve body and pull the bolts. Have rags handy. I think those drain pans dont use gaskets, they use RTV. It may come with a gasket on it, but remove it and use black RTV.
To remove the valve body, you just have to remove the bolts?
Someone tried to remove it but it stuck in there. He had to turned the manual valve lever clockwise or something.

The trans pan on my car has a gasket but it still leak some.
Is the black RTV like glue?
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:20 AM
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I took the solenoid pack out, and disassembled it.
Nothing seem to be wrong with it, plus I don't think it's the solenoid pack that caused the problem.

My only option now is to remove the valve body.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:48 AM
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So you have a bench tester and tested the solenoids and sensors? First I would check trans codes with a scanner. Black RTV gasket maker is not like glue. Its like a silicone gasket maker. Sounds like its an electrical issue, not an internal one. Check ball needs to go back where you find them so be sure you dont drop them.
 
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:33 AM
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I don't get any error code, so this could be a mechanical issue.

I don't have a bench tester.
Usually when the solenoid/sensors go bad, it throws error codes.
The problem with the solenoid pack/sensors is usually with your car not shift into a gear, go to limp mode, delayed forward engagement, ...

The problem I'm having has something to do with my car downshifted to 2nd gear, and then shift back to 3rd. Could be problem with hydraulic pressure, or shift overlap. I can't figure out.

I could replace the solenoid pack, and sensors but I don't think they are causing problems for now.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by I_Ride_Neon
So you have a bench tester and tested the solenoids and sensors? First I would check trans codes with a scanner. Black RTV gasket maker is not like glue. Its like a silicone gasket maker. Sounds like its an electrical issue, not an internal one. Check ball needs to go back where you find them so be sure you dont drop them.
Thank you.
I will drop it slowly so the ***** won't fall out.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:19 PM
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I still think its electrical. I think its the solenoid pack. They wont always throw codes, actually the last 4 I did on dodges had no codes at all. Need to have a good scanner to check tranny codes, some scanners wont show them. I would start by testing the solenoids.
 
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by I_Ride_Neon
I still think its electrical. I think its the solenoid pack. They wont always throw codes, actually the last 4 I did on dodges had no codes at all. Need to have a good scanner to check tranny codes, some scanners wont show them. I would start by testing the solenoids.
If you say so, I will find a way to test the solenoid.
If I can't test it, I will just replace it.
If the problem is fixed, then I won't have to remove the valve body. That will save me some time.
Thanks again.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:09 PM.

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