2004 Dakota low oil indicator
#1
2004 Dakota low oil indicator
Fist thanks for all of the help and advice I have been given.
OK I replaced the oil pan as it was rusting out. I replaced the stater alternator, and air compressor. I also cleaned the positive and negative battery cables and replaced the connectors. In doing all of that at different times in the last 30 days I replaced the oil and oil filter.
The oil indicator gets low and the check gauges light comes on when I am at a drive through or something like that. So thinking I did something wrong I went and had the oil changed professionally as there is a place near me that does it for $30.00 and that included taxes plus the fill your fluids and make sure the right air is in the tires. When they did this they did not say was low on oil or anything like that and that is something they will tell you if your car or truck is.
Last night the indicator went low and the check gauges light came on again. When I was in a drive through. When I started driving things went back to "normal"
How do I check the oil pump and oil pressure control module? As I was thinking of just replacing both.
OK I replaced the oil pan as it was rusting out. I replaced the stater alternator, and air compressor. I also cleaned the positive and negative battery cables and replaced the connectors. In doing all of that at different times in the last 30 days I replaced the oil and oil filter.
The oil indicator gets low and the check gauges light comes on when I am at a drive through or something like that. So thinking I did something wrong I went and had the oil changed professionally as there is a place near me that does it for $30.00 and that included taxes plus the fill your fluids and make sure the right air is in the tires. When they did this they did not say was low on oil or anything like that and that is something they will tell you if your car or truck is.
Last night the indicator went low and the check gauges light came on again. When I was in a drive through. When I started driving things went back to "normal"
How do I check the oil pump and oil pressure control module? As I was thinking of just replacing both.
#5
If oil pressure drops down to, or near zero and engine doesn't sound different, then it's most likely the sender. $30 for genuine Mopar on that link I posted.
Dont worry about the pump just yet. The senders do go bad at this age. Make sure u run full syn oil in these 4.7s tho. Clear any codes after sender install.
Dont worry about the pump just yet. The senders do go bad at this age. Make sure u run full syn oil in these 4.7s tho. Clear any codes after sender install.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 01-28-2021 at 04:05 AM.
#6
Update
Normally I do not run sny oil.
Just drove a round trip of 414 miles and while driving no issues with the oil gauge. Last night drove a round trip of 180 miles and one the beginning trip approx 10 miles from my destination the oil gage dropped to Low and when I got there turned the truck off for about 20 minutes let the truck sit while doing what I went there to do. Started the truck things were normal until about 50 miles from my return destination. Drove approx another 20 miles stopped at a gas station let the truck sit then started and drove home. Well I know what I am doing this weekend
Normally I do not run sny oil.
Just drove a round trip of 414 miles and while driving no issues with the oil gauge. Last night drove a round trip of 180 miles and one the beginning trip approx 10 miles from my destination the oil gage dropped to Low and when I got there turned the truck off for about 20 minutes let the truck sit while doing what I went there to do. Started the truck things were normal until about 50 miles from my return destination. Drove approx another 20 miles stopped at a gas station let the truck sit then started and drove home. Well I know what I am doing this weekend
#7
Yeah, replace the sender first thing.
I HIGHLY suggest running full syn in these 4.7 motors. It coagulates a lot less than conventional or blends, meaning less sludge. The 4.7 has got tighter passages and more temps swings with the cast iron block and aluminum head. Also the oil fill tube sits high up off the motor and stays cool as oil mist wafts up from engine, creating that yellow goo when you open the oil cap. With covid out there and me working from home, I am doing a lot of short trips, which means more water condensation in the engine. I wouldn't even consider conventional. You can get big jug of full syn (I use Quaker State Ultimate durability 0W-20) at Wally World for under $20.
Also...wouldn't hurt to run a motor medic 5 min flush on your next oil change. I do this every two oil changes and always keep a few jugs of used oil to "flush out the flush" (it's a solvent) before filling with fresh oil. Keep old oil filter in when flushing till you're actually about to add new oil.
I HIGHLY suggest running full syn in these 4.7 motors. It coagulates a lot less than conventional or blends, meaning less sludge. The 4.7 has got tighter passages and more temps swings with the cast iron block and aluminum head. Also the oil fill tube sits high up off the motor and stays cool as oil mist wafts up from engine, creating that yellow goo when you open the oil cap. With covid out there and me working from home, I am doing a lot of short trips, which means more water condensation in the engine. I wouldn't even consider conventional. You can get big jug of full syn (I use Quaker State Ultimate durability 0W-20) at Wally World for under $20.
Also...wouldn't hurt to run a motor medic 5 min flush on your next oil change. I do this every two oil changes and always keep a few jugs of used oil to "flush out the flush" (it's a solvent) before filling with fresh oil. Keep old oil filter in when flushing till you're actually about to add new oil.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 02-02-2021 at 11:34 AM.
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