Question bout synthetic oil - Page 3

imnothot02 · #21 03-30-2008, 12:28 PM

however thats penzoil, which if you check around is crap for engines

unles you like wax buiildup... and other problems that im not gna spell out..do a bit of research and you will find that if your going to "help" your motorout, you woul dwant to youse Amsoil or royal purple, not a $30 oil change, while were at it ill let you know that fram isnt a good filter at all, but its your choice, id go with a mobile one before i went with a papar filter w/ no backflow protection...

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JasonA · #22 03-30-2008, 01:38 PM

Travis, do some research on BITOG.com. You'll find out that rumors of paraffinic wax buildup associated with Pennsylvania crude oils is one from decades ago, and one that doesn't really carry much proof anyway.

The only way to argue about an oil's usefulness or results is to post UOAs (Used Oil Analyses). You can see what's in, and what's not in, your oil, and it'll help you determine oil change intervals, etc. Because of these types of analyses, you'll actually find that Pennzoil is one of the most often recommended oils on BITOG, an internet forum like this chalk full of oil experts and oil geeks alike. Pennzoil Platinum, while not a true "synthetic" (it's a Group III oil), is a favorite on BITOG. And for conventional oil, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle is often recommended, along with Havoline.

I'd encourage you do so some research, as you suggested to another member. You'll find that rumors from the past don't hold true now. You'll also find that boutique oils like Amsoil don't provide any increased level of protection, but they'll lighten your wallet pretty quickly. Lots of data there (BobIsTheOilGuy.com)...go check it out.

imnothot02 · #23 03-30-2008, 01:53 PM

well all be damned ur rite based on that site, i was going on what mechanics and racers that i know say, however what have you heard about fram?

TheePlaymaker · #24 03-30-2008, 06:19 PM

i think the mobil 1 full synthetic is $20 for a 5 quart jug then another $6 for that 6th quart at wal mart plus $9 for a mobil one filter. Mobil one also has their regular full synthetic and the full synthetic high mileage that i get.

imnothot02 · #25 03-30-2008, 06:27 PM

so about 15 or so higher than conventional, i never knew that the pensoil was good! thats worth it sortof... be about 1000 bucks over the life of the motor, 200,000 mioles..

scandal669 · #26 03-30-2008, 09:42 PM

wow, now this has gotten ridiculous....it has been proven that most labels say they are synthetic, but they are not truly synthetic, they are a mix of synthetic and conventional and that is why they are cheaper than a true synthetic. they put out ads all day saying the space shuttle uses it to lure you in to thinking it is better but in a daily usage car it does nothing but waste you pocket money. i dont care what anyone says, pennzoil, quaker state, valvoline , and any other big name brand is good for an engine in conventional form. todays engines will run with with a generic oil for 99 cent a quart in them. nobody will ever tell me that spending $6 a quart is going to get them better anything because it wont, i have been there and done that with other cars, and as long as you change the oil regularly, you can run on even a generic oil forever. i know, because i have done it on work cars.

i delivered for dominos pizza and had a beater car just for workfor years and used generic and even recycled oil and my car ran perfectly. i drove over 200 miles a day and things were fine. i have been using 10w-30 for over 20 years in several different cars and have also had cars that had over 200,000 miles and they run fine,what more can you ask from an engine?

bottom line is, an oil will not make your car run better or last longer unless you never change it. it is a total myth.

i am a 2nd owner to my dakota and the guy i bought it from used 10w-30 conventional, orwhatever was on sale at the time, he said ususally pennzoil or valvoline and i dont get any smoke or problems so i am sticking with my crappy oil while you all debate and argue about what is better, to spend $2 or $6 on a quart of oil. seems to me that a filter is more important than the oil itself anyway.

imnothot02 · #27 03-31-2008, 12:08 AM

wana talk about fuel?

ricbrk · #28 03-31-2008, 12:54 AM

I'd rather talk about BEER [sm=goodidea.gif] [sm=icon_cheers.gif] [sm=icon_guiness.gif][sm=outcold.gif]

scandal669 · #29 03-31-2008, 12:20 PM

fuel? hey now that is a good subject. what grade and what brand? at the prices these days i guess whatever is cheapest...

high octane supposedly burns hotter, so its cleaner, but it also burns faster so your mileage goes down. manufacturers say 87 octane is recommended on a normal engine. i guess that would be the only advantage in these motors.

after all this, i think id rather talk about beer too

JasonA · #30 03-31-2008, 12:39 PM

Just use the recommended fuel. Premium does not burn hotter or cleaner. On the contrary, using a fuel with a higher octane than required can increase deposits in your engine. Reference this TSB from Dodge: 14-08-97. Copy/paste from the TSB:

Gasoline with a high Driveability Index (DI) can cause the above described symptoms. DI is a measure of the gasolines total volatility, or tendency to vaporize completely. A high DI number is less volatile than a low DI number. Most premium gasoline sold in the U.S. has a higher (worse) DI index than regular or mid-grade gasoline. Use of premium gasoline is NOT recommended for vehicles designed to run on 87 (R+M)/2 regular or 89 (R+M)/2 midgrade gasoline. High DI gasolines also cause higher emissions for the same reasons they cause driveability problems.

For vehicles that require an octane rating of 91 (R+M)/2, premium is recommended, or possibly required. Using premium fuel with a higher than recommended octane rating is not recommended. Owners who experience fuel related cold start and warm up driveability problems should try a gasoline with the recommended octane rating or different brands of gasoline until they find one that provides good performance.

The octane quality of gasoline is only a measure of its resistance to spark knock. The use of higher than recommended octane gasoline under normal operating conditions does NOT improve startability, idle quality, fuel economy, driveability, acceleration, engine durability, or emissions. In fact, most higher octane gasolines available in the U.S. have higher DI values than regular gasoline. Customers are most likely to experience poor driveability with premium gasoline than with regular.