check to make sure that the wires connected to the computer arent too corroded and that the are properly set in the clip

 

Ya, I started to go through the wires and even found a service manual online, but I'm having trouble figuring out which of the 3 clips is for engine, lights...whatever. It would seem that one of the clips brings power in rom the PDC? All 3 clips have tape around the section of the clip where the wires come in, so maybe I need to start peeling back tape. I also tried touching an ohm-meter to corresponding pins and holes (technical terms here) but I'm guessing that if juice isn't getting to the PCM, I'm not going to get anywhere doing that.

 

Rambling thoughts:
I've pulled all the fuses and fuses passed the fuse tester.

What is the best way to test the fuse sockets or cavity? Does the ignition need to be in the on position?

In another thread, I saw to test the relays by using the horn socket. If the relay is good, the horn works, Pull that relay, insert another, Try that relay and so on. All relays worked (as far as making the horn work).

What is the best way to test the 140 Amp alternator fuse in the PDC? I can check the battery with an ampmeter and it shows me 12.4 volts. But where the + wire goes from the battery to this 140 amp fuse and the black wire goes to the alternator, there's no juice going thru this fuse. Sorry, I just don't get this wiring stuff. I realize all circuits cannot be hot all the time, just not sure how to check switches, relays, etc.

I do have a service manual with loads of diagrams that I can't read.

This is what I get by trying to save money as a do it yourselfer.

Thanks for any input.

Rick

 

im not exactly sure how to test electrical. i havent had the ambition to play with it at all cuz its all a PITA. but as for saving money as a do it yourselfer, dont think negative, if you think negative, nothing will get done. you will figure it out eventually, you just need some help on understanding electrical. if i had someone come teach me what is what and how to test it, i might sit down and listen, but as for learning it on my own, f that. you can never go wrong as a do it yourselfer, its just a learning process like everything else. you didnt know how to do it, so now your learning how to do it and what to look for. but as for your problem, i would just wait for someone who knows what they are doing to chime in

 

If you could get your hands on a test light that would be perfect to check fuses with. some fuses will have power with the key off, but some will need the key on. Its fine if you just have the key on. If you take your test light and find a good ground you cant just touch the top of the fuse on the two little metal tabs. if it light ups on both sides then your fuse is good. if not then it is blow and it needs to be replaced. if your put a new one in and it blows again right away then you have a short to ground somewhere on the circuit you are testing and it is drawing to much current through that fuse.

As far as the 140 amp fuse for you alternator. you can remove the fuse and take your DMM and put it on the Ohm's setting and touch the two leads to either side of the fuse. if it read "OL" (open load) then it is blow and needs to be replaced. and if it reads higher then 1.000 ohms then the restance in the fuse is too high and should be replaced.

And to test your alternator you can do voltage drop tests on each wire, for the positive wire you will put your meter on DC volts and take your red lead and touch it to the pos. batt. post and take your black lead and touch it to the pos. post on the alternator. the engine needs to be running at 2000 rpms and the headlights on. this will full field your alternator, meaning its at its max output. If you get a reading higher than .5 volts than that wire is bad. To test the ground side you need to take the black lead and touch it to the neg. batt. post and take your red lead and put it on the alternator case because it is grounded through the engine block. if this reading is higher than .2 volts than you have a bad ground and your alternator will probably need to be replaced. I hope this helps. If you have any questions please just write back. and i will try to help you out some more. good luck.

 

All fuses tested good BUT ONE. It is a 15 amp fuse that is for the O2 Sensors, Fuse 24. I swapped out fuse 23 (in front of it) and the fuse itself is good. But not when in position 24. More reading but at least a direction.

 

It might be a heated O2 sensor, im not sure if it is or not, but that would mean there is 4 wires going into the sensor and that could be the fuse for that circuit.

 

OK, I'm checking my service manual for the O2 sensors...

 

OK, in the fuse box near the battery, the PDC, there are 2 empty spots, #'s 28 & 32, for O2 sensor relays with no relays in them. Those spots have been empty since I've had the truck. So I must be looking for something else.

The service manual states that "Depending on the emissions package, the heating element within the sensors will be supplied voltage from either the ASD relay or the 2 separate oxygen sensor relays. Refer to wiring diagrams to determine which relays are used."

So I'm to assume I have to track down where the Auto shutdown relay goes. The relay itself is just above the empty O2 sensor relays in the PDC.

 

Yea the empty spots are just for different model vehicle, or they probably even use the same fuse block on the durango so if some arnt there then its not really a big deal. Ill go loo at my truck today and see if i can find the auto shutdown relay on my truck and see if i can help you narrow it down anymore.