Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Dakota > 2nd Gen Dakota
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

01 Dakota 4x4 front lower ball joint removal

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-20-2009, 05:07 PM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default 01 Dakota 4x4 front lower ball joint removal

My front lower ball joints apparently need to be replaced. Looking at the pics I see of what is listed as replacement parts (mostly moog greaseable), they don't look like what I have. I have no rivets or bolts holding the ball joints ot the control arm. Just some sort of cap at the top end of the control arm. How was that ball joint install and how does it get removed?

Is this the right replacement part?
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...&N=10110&Nty=1

//edit:
This is the Moog
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moog-...Q5fAccessories

Thanks
-John (noob)
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!

Last edited by JohnnyTooBad; 01-20-2009 at 05:12 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-20-2009, 05:17 PM
f0x672 f0x672 is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 3.9l V6 Auto 4x4
Location: poconos, pa
Posts: 2,530
Send a message via AIM to f0x672
Default

lower ball joint is pressed in, has to be pressed out on, atleast i know thats the case on 4x4s. another guy on here was asking about his bolted in lower ball joints and i believe thats for the 2wd daks. moog has a good rep.
__________________


Quote:
Originally Posted by f0x672 View Post
..$100 a BJ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtdakota2001 View Post
yeah, that's pretty steep. next time just go to vegas.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-20-2009, 05:41 PM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks Fox. So do I grind off that "cap" that's on top, or does that get removed some other way, then press out the ball joint?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-20-2009, 05:49 PM
f0x672 f0x672 is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 3.9l V6 Auto 4x4
Location: poconos, pa
Posts: 2,530
Send a message via AIM to f0x672
Default

press the lower bj through the bottom. a lot of pb blaster and elbow grease to remove em. you probably could cut that top cap to make your life easier, make sure you use a BJ press with the right adapter to remove it.
__________________


Quote:
Originally Posted by f0x672 View Post
..$100 a BJ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtdakota2001 View Post
yeah, that's pretty steep. next time just go to vegas.

Last edited by f0x672; 01-20-2009 at 05:55 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-20-2009, 05:58 PM
rpowell's Avatar
rpowell rpowell is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 2003 QC SLT 4.7, 4X4, Auto Trans, tow package, CAI, Yokohama A/T-S, F.M., K&N, SuperChips
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 368
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by f0x672 View Post
press the lower bj through the bottom. a lot of pb blaster and elbow grease to remove em. you probably could cut that top cap to make your life easier, make sure you use a BJ press with the right adapter to remove it.

I believe you are correct, the lower 4x4 joints are pressed in then held in with a big clip from underneath. My mechanic will be changing mine in the morning, I'll let you know.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-21-2009, 09:44 AM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpowell View Post
I believe you are correct, the lower 4x4 joints are pressed in then held in with a big clip from underneath. My mechanic will be changing mine in the morning, I'll let you know.
Cool. Let me know how it goes/went. If I can't hammer/cut the old one out I hope to be able to borrow a press from an auto parts store, or make a makeshift one with the use of some C clamps.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:40 PM
ibcnul8r ibcnul8r is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Vehicle: 01 Dakota SLT 4 X 4, Ext. Cab, 4.7 L, K&N CAI, Cat back Duel Exh., Gunner 6 Chrome wheels, step bars
Location: Auburn, Wa.
Posts: 96
Default

I thought there was a safety Recall bulletin on the ball-joints and you could have them replaced for free from the manufacture. At least there was on my 2001 Dakota.

And I'm only referring to if you've never had them replaced already through recall bulletin.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:50 PM
f0x672 f0x672 is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 3.9l V6 Auto 4x4
Location: poconos, pa
Posts: 2,530
Send a message via AIM to f0x672
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ibcnul8r View Post
I thought there was a safety Recall bulletin on the ball-joints and you could have them replaced for free from the manufacture. At least there was on my 2001 Dakota.

And I'm only referring to if you've never had them replaced already through recall bulletin.
recall was for the uppers only.
__________________


Quote:
Originally Posted by f0x672 View Post
..$100 a BJ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtdakota2001 View Post
yeah, that's pretty steep. next time just go to vegas.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-21-2009, 06:24 PM
rpowell's Avatar
rpowell rpowell is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 2003 QC SLT 4.7, 4X4, Auto Trans, tow package, CAI, Yokohama A/T-S, F.M., K&N, SuperChips
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 368
Default

Yep recall was for upper.

Lower's have to be pressed out and new ones pressed in. What a pain in the ***! You have to remove the lower control arm unless somebody has a trick I don't know about. I will be taking mine to a shop tomorrow to have them swapped out then reinstalling the control arms ourselves.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:25 PM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default

My plan is to cut off the top caps with a die grinder or diamond cutting bit in a dremmel, then maybe drill some holes in the top of the ball joint so that it has room to collapse a bit. I may heat the control arm with an LP torch and put some non flammable lube in there, then beat the crap out of it with a 5lb hammer. And toughts on whether this would work or not?
__________________
****************
'01 Dakota QC SLT, 4.7L, 4x4, LSD, Auto, Slam Latch Ranch Shell.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:49 PM
rtdakota2001's Avatar
rtdakota2001 rtdakota2001 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota R/T
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,434
Send a message via AIM to rtdakota2001
Default

when in doubt, always resort to fire and the biggest hammer you have
__________________

4.56 Gear Club - next major move: puttin' my baby on the bottle
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-22-2009, 12:43 AM
rpowell's Avatar
rpowell rpowell is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 2003 QC SLT 4.7, 4X4, Auto Trans, tow package, CAI, Yokohama A/T-S, F.M., K&N, SuperChips
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 368
Default

I just don't feel like screwing with it and the shop in town will press out and then press both new ones in for $40-$50, so I'll just run the control arms in town.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-22-2009, 10:30 AM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default

That's a thought. Have someone else press them out. Are they doing all the work, and you provide the ball joints? You'd kiind of have to. I should look around for a shop that will do the work if I provide the parts. I wonder if Advance Auto will loan a ball joint press?

Oh, and the rule is.... Force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway. And, yeah, I have a couple of BFHs (Big F'in Hammers). hehehehe

//edit: I called the local Advance. They have the greasable Moogs in stock and have a ball joint press kit that they will loan for free. The ball joints are the same price I'm seeing on line. About $75/ea. I'm seeing these kits on eBay with all 4 ball joints for about $60, but they look like low-end OE stuff that's not greasable. So it'll cost $150 to replace them, as opposed to the stealership charging $900.
__________________
****************
'01 Dakota QC SLT, 4.7L, 4x4, LSD, Auto, Slam Latch Ranch Shell.

Last edited by JohnnyTooBad; 01-22-2009 at 10:40 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-22-2009, 05:12 PM
f0x672 f0x672 is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 3.9l V6 Auto 4x4
Location: poconos, pa
Posts: 2,530
Send a message via AIM to f0x672
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad View Post
My plan is to cut off the top caps with a die grinder or diamond cutting bit in a dremmel, then maybe drill some holes in the top of the ball joint so that it has room to collapse a bit. I may heat the control arm with an LP torch and put some non flammable lube in there, then beat the crap out of it with a 5lb hammer. And toughts on whether this would work or not?
that fails.. get an oxygen/acetylene torch and a bigger hammer and your good . haha just kidding. have the press at hand, if that fails then result to physical abuse.
__________________


Quote:
Originally Posted by f0x672 View Post
..$100 a BJ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtdakota2001 View Post
yeah, that's pretty steep. next time just go to vegas.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-24-2009, 04:24 PM
rpowell's Avatar
rpowell rpowell is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 2003 QC SLT 4.7, 4X4, Auto Trans, tow package, CAI, Yokohama A/T-S, F.M., K&N, SuperChips
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 368
Default

ok got mine all done. I also changed all the control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. I used to hear creaks N squeaks in the front when its cold outside, but now it is quiet and feels better too. seriously, unless you just want to play with the press just pay somebody $50 to do it.

anyway hope you get it
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:57 PM
JohnnyTooBad JohnnyTooBad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Default

It'll be at least a week until I can get to it. As for the squeaking and creaking, when I was looking to buy, every Dak I drove had that. It was the front sway bar bushings. Mine just started doing it again. Took it 3 years. 10 minute fix with some trailer bearing grease.
__________________
****************
'01 Dakota QC SLT, 4.7L, 4x4, LSD, Auto, Slam Latch Ranch Shell.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:29 PM
novarob novarob is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad View Post
My plan is to cut off the top caps with a die grinder or diamond cutting bit in a dremmel, then maybe drill some holes in the top of the ball joint so that it has room to collapse a bit. I may heat the control arm with an LP torch and put some non flammable lube in there, then beat the crap out of it with a 5lb hammer. And toughts on whether this would work or not?
I am working on mine as well. I looked & it seemed like there is a cap on mine as well. I checked with my neighbor & he told me that it looks like the factory just bent the top edges over instead of using a snap ring. So I got out my trusty press & reefed on it for a bit & it came out. Now to put the new one in & I am done!

Respectfully
Rob
Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2012, 07:29 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
2001, avenger, ball, clip, clips, dakota, dodge, instalation, install, joint, joints, lower, ram, removal, remove

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:37 AM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails