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Fuel Pump Module - What are signs it's failing?

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Old 02-27-2011, 09:09 PM
luvdogz luvdogz is offline
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Default Fuel Pump Module - What are signs it's failing?

I've had the code 0442 for a couple of months. I came to this forum for info about it and got lots of help for finding the problem. I did all that was suggested I do and the code still won't clear. I finally took it to a garage the other day and the mechanic told me I need a new fuel pump module. He said he pressurized the system and that there was a leak coming from the area of the pump. Seems to me I would know if this part were on its way out with some type of problem regarding fuel but I could be wrong. Are there signs when a fuel pump module is failing? If yes, what are they? Also, is there something else in the area where he heard the leak that could be the problem instead of the pump? These pumps are not cheap and I don't want to replace it if it's not broken. They see a female come through the door and...............watch out!! They don't know I get alot of expert help on this forum though!! Hopefully I'll get lots of it with this problem so I can know exactly what I'm talking about if/when I go back there. I thought they'd find a leak in a hose or something........ Please help me out here????? I do appreciate it!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:39 PM
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I do believe the module has tubes going through it so it is possible that the module could leak. The module is on the top of the pump.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:42 PM
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Fuel pump module? Oh that thing next to the reciprocating dingle arm! Your fuel pump or what ever they are calling it, could be as simple as a 5.00 fix. Idk what they are actually talking about maybe the charcoal canister(i've never heard it called that) Your gas cap could be the cause of it. There is also another cause for this code too. Under the driver side of the truck there is a little black box. There is like 2 or 3 hoses going to it and one might be cracked and just leaking. Go under and inspect it yourself not a big deal just see if the hoses are tight and aren't cracked at all. Its not a big deal I have that code and its been on in my truck for 10,000 miles. One day ill fix it lol
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:43 PM
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i have an evap leak too. but mine is a large one. its most likley just old hoses on the evap canister. which looks like this, it could be as simple as you need a new gas cap.
:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2540/...72c8a20d39.jpg

as far as i know its just an emissions thing. are you loosing power, or is the motor cutting out, not starting? that would be sign of a bad fuel pump. you could also test the fuel pump pressure buy buying a fuel pressure test kit at autzone and hook it up to the fuel rail.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:50 PM
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Best advice I could give is tell them to show you where the leak is. That way you know they are not taking advantage of you for your money and you can be confident that the repair is actually truthful.

Would there not be gas leaking out? There is a few good pounds of pressure in those lines. If no leaks I would start to think about what the other posters have mentioned.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:27 AM
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maybe the shop was talking about the fuel sending unit? i've had a problem with the gas reading empty when the tank isn't. the code i got said the fuel sending unit was failing. but if i just rev it over 2k the gauge corrects itself. hopefully your problem is something small like that, cause i dont know what the mechanic is talking about either.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:49 AM
luvdogz luvdogz is offline
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Thanks, everybody! Knew I could count on you guys here!!!

A couple months ago I checked the charcoal canister and the hoses going into it along with all the hoses I could find from the gas tank up to the engine and couldn't find any leaks. Remember, I'm female and am not really familiar with alot of this stuff. I'm learning alot but the fuel lines confused me a bit up the front. I did my best and couldn't find any leaks. I also bought a new OEM fuel cap and that didn't help either. With the help of people on here I did all they suggested. Again, checking the hoses got a bit confusing.

One more question..........If I am not having any "fuel pump" issues, is it possible to replace the module only? Are there hoses leading to this pump that could be loose? Like you guys, I don't feel this is really the problem but I really want to find what it is and have it fixed correctly.

Thanks for all your input!! If you think of anything else, let me know? I appreciate all of you taking the time to help me out and I don't take it for granted.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:00 AM
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if you arent having any issues, or your arent dumping fuel i would leave it alone. have him do a fuel pressure test and show you just to make sure the pump is fine.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:21 PM
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Your not leaking fuel because you would notice it with almost 50psi in the fuel lines. How is your fuel filler neck? is it rusty or leaky when you put gas in it? Like I said earlier its not a major problem just a small problem.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:47 PM
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Like Thunder just posted above here, have the guy connect a fuel pressure test gauge and show you that the fuel pressure is too low. I have never heard of anyone pressurizing the fuel system in a Dakota, but you or your mechanic can check the internal fuel pressure. Have the guy connect his fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail test port on the driver's side of the engine, right below the throttle body. At idle, the fuel pressure should be between 47 to 52 psi. If not, there is a problem with the fuel pump, but you would know it because the truck would not run right. Have the guy turn off the truck but leave the fuel pressure gauge connected to the test port. If the pressure falls below 30 psi in 5 minutes or less, the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

Another sign of a bad fuel pressure regulator is if it takes longer than normal to start the truick after it sits overnight or even for a few hours. If it cranks over for more than about 3 seconds before the engine starts, you could have a failing pressure regulator. There is a check valve in the regulator that goes bad around 125,000 miles, and when that happens all the fuel bleeds back out of the fuel line as the truck sits, and that's why it takes a longer time to start. The fuel pump and pressure regulator have to re-prime the lines first before it starts. Another sign of the fuel pressure regulator problem is if it won't start right away unless you turn the ignition key to the on/run position and leave it there for 10 or 15 seconds. When you do that it also re-primes the fuel line.

There are fuel lines at the top of the fuel pump assembly but if they were actually leaking fuel you would smell it from outside the truck. If the mechanic guy says you have a leaking fuel line, make him show it to you before you pay him to fix it. Also, the fuel pump "module" is the same thing as the fuel pump. When it is called a module, generally it refers to the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel gauge sending unit as a whole assembly. Those 3 parts are all together in the fuel pump housing. The fuel pump is mounted in the gas tank, it is removed from the top side of the tank by either removing the fuel tank or removing the bed of the truck to gain access to the fuel pump.

The only part of the fuel pump module that you can replace separately from the fuel pump is the fuel gauge sending unit. But if you are replacing or having the sending unit replaced, it's smart just to replace the pump too, unless the sending unit failed at a very low mileage. The fuel pressure regulator is an internal part of the fuel pump itself. You have to replace the pump assembly to replace the regulator. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, the new one also includes a new fuel gauge sending unit.

Sounds to me like you still have a leak some where in the evaporative emissions system. The leaks can be hard to find. But it's not a good idea to leave it unrepaired and let the truck run with the check engine light continuously on. You need that light to be working normally so that it will come back on to alert you if any other engine/transmission/emissions problems come up in the future. If it's already still on due to the old P0442 code, it can't tell you about any other problems that might come up later. Maybe ask the mechanic if they can do a smog test on your emissions system. That's where they inject smoke or smog with a machine, it goes into the evap emissions system and where it leaks, the smoke leaks out, showing you where the problem is. It's kind of like putting a flat tire in water to let the air bubbles show you where it is punctured.

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Old 02-28-2011, 01:36 PM
luvdogz luvdogz is offline
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I really have had no issues with the truck as far as leaking fuel, hard starts, etc. Other than the P0442 code everything seems fine. I did have a P0138 code for the 02 sensor, bank 1, downstream and my brother replaced it. Could this bad 02 sensor have caused the P0442 code or are they not related?

Do you think I would be able to check the fuel pressure myself? As I think you all probably know by now, my husband passed away last year so I try to do alot of preventive maintenance to the truck. He has a fuel pressure gauge but I don't want to blow myself up........stop laughing. I can do lots of the small jobs like change the oil, clean the throttle body, etc. but I don't know much about the fuel/emissions systems. I'm learning alot but still don't know as much as I'd like to. I'm going to do some research on this. I'll let you know what happens at the garage but I won't be going back again until this coming Saturday.

I'm going to look at all the things you guys mentioned one more time to try and find the leak. Sure wish I could find the problem.

I really cannot thank you guys enough for the help/info you've given me here!!! I also want to thank you all for explaining it simply so I could understand better. This makes a big difference to a beginner like me who also happens to be a female!!! This is not a bad thing, there are lots of ladies out there who are great at this stuff but I do better with the detailed explanations and, in some cases, pictures of what I need to be looking for and where to find it.

So, THANK YOU, all, very much for taking the time to help me out!!!!!! I truly appreciate this!!!!!! I'll get back to you when I know anything more.

Last edited by luvdogz; 02-28-2011 at 01:39 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:17 PM
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testing the fuel pressure is easier than changing the oil. on the passenger side fuel rail you will see something that has a plastic cap on the end of a tip. looks like the valve step on the tire. unscrew it and screw in the fuel pressure test kit. some gas will come out b.c the rail is still pressurized.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the info, thunder98110! Unfortunately, I don't know where or what the passenger side fuel rail is??????.........sorry.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:36 PM
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here ya go.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.c...S/80468d30.gif
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.c...S/80a6f165.gif
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:40 PM
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here is an actual pic of a fuel rail and schrader valve where you plug the fuel pressure test kit into. off of the fuel rail will be the injectors.

http://images.hemmings.com/wp-conten...17_resized.jpg
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:42 PM
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thunder98110, you're the best!!! The pictures you've sent are perfect and I know exactly where the fuel rail and the test port are. I absolutely love to learn this stuff and I'm excited to test the pressure for myself! I've just got to locate the gauge. My husband had more tools than God and each one is perfectly placed where it should be. Now I need to figure out where he felt this gauge belonged. I've seen it 100's of times and never knew what it's purpose was. Now I've just got to remember where I saw it.

Thanks so much, for taking the time to explain this to me and especially for the pics!!! It's great to have people who are willing to help you out when you want to learn!!!

I'll post on here either tomorrow or the day after. I want to get to this tomorrow but I'm babysitting my 5 month old niece for the day. It will be great if it's warm enough here (20 mins. north of Boston) to bring her out in her stroller. Gotta wait to see.... the weathermen here in New England have a hard time getting it right sometimes. Not their fault, it's the way the weather is here.

THANKS, again!!!!

P.S. You're sure I won't blow myself up, right?
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvdogz View Post
thunder98110, you're the best!!! The pictures you've sent are perfect and I know exactly where the fuel rail and the test port are. I absolutely love to learn this stuff and I'm excited to test the pressure for myself! I've just got to locate the gauge. My husband had more tools than God and each one is perfectly placed where it should be. Now I need to figure out where he felt this gauge belonged. I've seen it 100's of times and never knew what it's purpose was. Now I've just got to remember where I saw it.

Thanks so much, for taking the time to explain this to me and especially for the pics!!! It's great to have people who are willing to help you out when you want to learn!!!

I'll post on here either tomorrow or the day after. I want to get to this tomorrow but I'm babysitting my 5 month old niece for the day. It will be great if it's warm enough here (20 mins. north of Boston) to bring her out in her stroller. Gotta wait to see.... the weathermen here in New England have a hard time getting it right sometimes. Not their fault, it's the way the weather is here.

THANKS, again!!!!

P.S. You're sure I won't blow myself up, right?
Dont worry you wont blow yourself up
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:06 PM
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Thanks, dodgeramguy85, for your reply! As much as I love learning about my truck and working on it, some things do worry me. If I don't know exactly why or how, I get a little nervous sometimes. I'm glad you chimed in though.......it makes me feel better that you took the time to reassure me! Thanks, again!!!
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:54 PM
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You won't blow your self up, but it might help if you relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel line before attaching the fuel pressure gauge to the test port. It will make the job easier and not spray gas out unexpectedly as you connect the gauge:

1. Remove the gas cap from the fuel fill neck.

2. Open the cover on the Power Distribution Center. It's the large rectangular box next to the battery that looks like a big fuse box.

3. Remove the fuel pump relay. It is located in the Power Distribution Center. Relays are small black rectangular shaped plastic pieces, about a half inch by 1 inch in size. When you look at the bottom of a relay it has little metal "legs" sticking out. There's a diagram inside the Power Distribution Center's lid that tells you which relay is the one for the fuel pump. It might help you when you find the fuel pump relay to make a reference chalk mark or somehow mark the spot where the relay goes back into its slots in the Power Distribution Center panel. This will help you find the place to reinstall it a bit easier.

4. Start the truck and let it run until it sputters and dies. This should take about half a minute. It will run rough the last few seconds but that won't hurt anything.

5. Crank the truck over a couple more times, just for one or two seconds each time to relieve any residual fuel pressure from the fuel lines.

6. Now connect the fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail.

7. Replace the fuel pump relay.

8. Reinstall the gas cap.

9. Turn the ignition key to "on/run", wait about 15 seconds to allow the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator to re-prime the fuel lines, then start the truck. It should start normally.

10. Continue with the fuel pressure tests from here.

The fuel rail test port will spray out a bit of fuel as you disconnect the gauge when you are done with your tests. Maybe wear rubber gloves while doing the tests. Personally, I hate the smell of gas on my skin, shoes or clothes, so I found it much better to check the fuel system by relieving the pressure from the fuel lines first.

Also, it is smart to disconnect the negative battery cable while doing these pressure relief procedures and connecting the fuel pressure gauge. It's a lot safer that way, you don't want even the slightest chance of a spark when working on your truck's fuel system.

Jimmy
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Last edited by 01SilverCC; 02-28-2011 at 09:59 PM..
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvdogz View Post
Thanks, dodgeramguy85, for your reply! As much as I love learning about my truck and working on it, some things do worry me. If I don't know exactly why or how, I get a little nervous sometimes. I'm glad you chimed in though.......it makes me feel better that you took the time to reassure me! Thanks, again!!!
Yeah no problem,I know the feeling
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