Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Dakota > 2nd Gen Dakota
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

4.7L Engine Takedown *Lots of Big Pics

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 10-31-2011, 10:38 AM
URBANRDNECK's Avatar
URBANRDNECK URBANRDNECK is offline
Veteran
2004 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Dakota
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 467
RedKota OPDAHL101
Default 4.7L Engine Takedown *Lots of Big Pics

If you don't know I swapped out my old 4.7L which had its timing messed up and replaced it with 06 H.O 4.7. I figured that a few people could benefit from my experience.This is the way I did it, it may not follow the correct way but it gets you to the same ending. So here begins the takedown of a 2004 4.7L...

First make sure that you have all the proper tools to make sure you can get the job done... The fridge comes in handy after you spend 30 minutes trying to get a single bolt off

Click the image to open in full size.


Second it really helps if you have the correct engine. it would kinda look something like this

Click the image to open in full size.

Ok now that you have all of your tools and the correct engine we can now start the process of starting the teardown of a 4.7L

First what you want to do is remove all of the ignition coils off of the intake manifold with a 10mm socket

Click the image to open in full size.

when your done you should have 8 coils and 8 10mm nuts.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next is to remove the fuel rail which is held on my four 8mm bolts, you have to wiggle the injectors to get them loose.

Click the image to open in full size.

After that you should have the four 8mm bolts from the fuel rail, the fuel rail and the injectors, eight ignition coils and eight bolts for the coils

Click the image to open in full size.

I kinda broke this little piece while swapping engines but i think it turns and you could pull it out of the oil fill area

Click the image to open in full size.

next onto the the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine, these are the same bolts that the ignition coils where screwed on. unscrew 8 of them and note they will not pop out but make sure they are no long screwed into the heads. There are also two other bolts on oppisite sides on the manifold that I'm missing a picture from but same thing unscrew them with a 10mm. You can actually see the two bolts im talking about a few pictures up. its on the bottom left and top right corner

Click the image to open in full size.


Next unscrew the mounting for the oil capacity "gauge" 10mm and lift up and remove intake manifold

Click the image to open in full size.

Part one complete.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
__________________

2006 H.O SWAP K&N,Magnaflow,SuperChips,Destination MT

Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 09:31 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-31-2011, 01:57 PM
thunder98110's Avatar
thunder98110 thunder98110 is offline
Champion
2001 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Vehicle: 2012 Ram Express RC
Location: DC
Posts: 4,084
winston.mcbride
Default

this is legit man, good work so far. i would have done the same but i had the shop take my heads off since i had the ho cam in there.
__________________
My Youtube Videos...Tons more photos...TMR MOD INFO...SCT TUNER INFO...H.O CAMS INFO
2012 HEMI, 2wd, 3.92 rear, debaged, black rims, K&N drop in, 85mm FastmanTB, Aero turbine 3030xl, Belltech 2/4 drop
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-31-2011, 03:34 PM
URBANRDNECK's Avatar
URBANRDNECK URBANRDNECK is offline
Veteran
2004 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Dakota
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 467
RedKota OPDAHL101
Default

Eww, soo much garbage underneath the intake manifold...

Click the image to open in full size.

Removed intake manifold with throttle body

Click the image to open in full size.

Intake ports are just a little dirty

Click the image to open in full size.

Your next step will be to removing the crankshaft pulley so that you can remove the timing cover. I forgot what the socket size but it a fairly large socket. you need something to keep the pulley itself from spinning the repair manual suggest that you use some kind of chain contraption. Being cheap and not wanting to go buy some $50+ tool I figured if I wedged a C-clamp against the pulley and the block it would work. That bolt will be on there extremely tight so sometimes you need and "extension" to your breaker bar to get the job done.

Click the image to open in full size.

after that use a 3 jaw puller on the pulley to slowly pull it off of the crankshaft.

Click the image to open in full size.

I had to put a socket on the end of my puller because mine wasn't long enough to pull the pulley completely off the crank.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next you have to remove the tensionor, you remove this by unscrewing a 13 mm bolt.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your engine should now look like this.

Click the image to open in full size.

next there are 14 bolt on the timing cover that you have to remove. Basically its all of the outside ones. KEEP TRACK OF WHAT BOLTS COME OUT OF WHERE AS THEY DO VARY.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove timing cover. it may be stuck onto your engine a few hits with a rubber mallet should knock it off. Take note there will still be coolant in your engine and it will go all over the floor as soon as the timing cover pops off. Its makes a mess, so be prepared.

Click the image to open in full size.

next is to loosen the timing by compression a tensioner and shoving a pin through to hole to lower the pressure on the chain. I broke the stupid piece trying to compress it so I have no idea how you are suppose to do that without breaking something.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next part is removing the heads off of the engine



__________________

2006 H.O SWAP K&N,Magnaflow,SuperChips,Destination MT

Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 03:24 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:28 PM
URBANRDNECK's Avatar
URBANRDNECK URBANRDNECK is offline
Veteran
2004 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Dakota
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 467
RedKota OPDAHL101
Default


Alright so now moving onto removing the valve covers. There will be quite a few 10mm bolts that are pressed into the valve cover. Which means you can unscrew them from the head but they will not fall out of the valve cover.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then you can just lift up on the valve cover and get it out of your way. This exposes the "internals" of your cylinder head.

Click the image to open in full size.

Mine already has the camshafts removed but I will go through the process of removing it anyways since it will probably be helpful to someone.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your camshaft will be sitting inside those little circle areas, I have no idea what the proper term is but you know what i'm talking about. next use a 15mm socket to remove the cam bolt. you will need to hold the cam still with something. Than you can pop of the timing sprocket out of the camshaft dowl pin. Next you have to undo the tops of the circle things that hold the camshaft down. Those are 10mm bolts and you need to loosen those bolts equally to distribute the pressure evenly. I recommend doing 1/2 turns at a time until the are loose enough to undo them by hand. You can just take the rocker arms off, they are just sitting there. You probably knocked one off when you were taking off the valve cover, its no problem at all.

With the camshaft removed and the timing already loosen, we have just two things to remove before you can start breaking those head bolts loose. You will have to remove the oil fill tube which is held on by four 8mm bolts

Click the image to open in full size.

Next There is a cam access panel/bolt on the passenger side of the engine which is a monster nut looking thing. It took the second biggest socket I had to fit this thing. just unscrew this and it will give you access to remove the last part of the timing tension-ing system so that you can remove the head.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is the last thing you have to remove to give you enough access to pull the head with easy. Its a T35 bolt that you just have to unscrew and pull the the tension-ing piece out.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

For the other side its a plastic panel that you just have to pop out and do the exact same thing but with a 13mm socket

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your timing sprocket you can just take out,and let the chain fall into the engine so it gets out of your way.

Click the image to open in full size.

OK so the moment you all have been waiting for... Its now time to loosen those head bolts and rip the cylinder head off your engine. There are 14 bolts that you will have to loosen in a sequence. Basically unscrew the tiny 4 head bolts that are in the area of the timing sprocket and outer head. Then move onto the head studs that are in the camshaft area. These are loosen with a 15mm socket and a breaker bar. Be sure to only turn these 1/2 a turn at a time otherwise you may warp your head in the process. Make sure that you loosen them by going across the head after every bolt.

Click the image to open in full size.

You might not even get all of the head bolt completely out and the head will start to move around. After you get all the bolts out, lift up and look at your hopefully pretty pistons.

Click the image to open in full size.

Mmmm. I like that it still has the cross etching and no marks in the cylinders!

Click the image to open in full size.

Look at one of the heads from the underside.

Click the image to open in full size.

Thanks for viewing my takedown! Coming soon will be the tearing down the bottom end!

__________________

2006 H.O SWAP K&N,Magnaflow,SuperChips,Destination MT

Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 03:26 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-03-2011, 06:37 AM
Blaze10's Avatar
Blaze10 Blaze10 is offline
Record Breaker
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Vehicle: 2004 & 1999 Dodge Dakota
Location: Clinton County, Pa
Posts: 1,031
Cameron Bechdel o BlaZe v
Send a message via AIM to Blaze10 Send a message via Yahoo to Blaze10
Default

this is nuts! thanks for the info an time! pretty sure this should be sticky
__________________

2004 5.5 total lift, 315 75 16s, superchips, k&n, FastMan TB, Sonnax..
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-03-2011, 10:27 AM
Trent479's Avatar
Trent479 Trent479 is offline
Veteran
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota
Location: San Jose
Posts: 327
Default

dang man you are goin at it! very informative! good thread ya got here! hope it all worked out for you!
__________________
Keepin it Pinned 'n Shreddin the Ground Steeze
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-27-2011, 11:28 PM
URBANRDNECK's Avatar
URBANRDNECK URBANRDNECK is offline
Veteran
2004 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Dakota
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 467
RedKota OPDAHL101
Default

I just finished pulling out the crank. Look forward to the Final part of disassembly
__________________

2006 H.O SWAP K&N,Magnaflow,SuperChips,Destination MT
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-28-2011, 10:22 AM
URBANRDNECK's Avatar
URBANRDNECK URBANRDNECK is offline
Veteran
2004 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Dakota
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 467
RedKota OPDAHL101
Default

Alright guys and gals here comes the final steps in the take down of a 4.7L!

Last time I posted I had the engine looking something like this, well without the timing cover.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your next step is to remove the secondary chain tensionors. There are two of these guys. One is up and to the right of the main/big timing sprocket and the other one is right to the left the sprocket.
Click the image to open in full size.
They look something like this
Click the image to open in full size.
here is the upper right one removed
Click the image to open in full size.
Then make sure you have all the chains fall "into" the engine. I think there was another bolt holding on the main timing chain sprocket on but I forgot to take a picture of it
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
I will get back to finishing this later today. I figured I would post what I could now




__________________

2006 H.O SWAP K&N,Magnaflow,SuperChips,Destination MT
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-30-2011, 08:25 PM
EricBing's Avatar
EricBing EricBing is offline
Professional
2002 Dodge Dakota
My Garage
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Vehicle: 02 Dakota 4x4 4.7
Location: Michigan
Posts: 204
Default

WOW better than a haynes manual very informative, love the terminology, Great job will be waiting and watching. Thanx its ppl like you that help the great backyard mechanics, with scraped knuckls vise grip and a BFH
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:31 PM
moe7404 moe7404 is offline
Record Breaker
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,830
Default

not at all like a real engine is it?
__________________
moe
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 09:31 PM
Reply
 
 
 




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:35 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2