If you don't know I swapped out my old 4.7L which had its timing messed up and replaced it with 06 H.O 4.7. I figured that a few people could benefit from my experience.This is the way I did it, it may not follow the correct way but it gets you to the same ending. So here begins the takedown of a 2004 4.7L...
First make sure that you have all the proper tools to make sure you can get the job done... The fridge comes in handy after you spend 30 minutes trying to get a single bolt off
Second it really helps if you have the correct engine. it would kinda look something like this
Ok now that you have all of your tools and the correct engine we can now start the process of starting the teardown of a 4.7L
First what you want to do is remove all of the ignition coils off of the intake manifold with a 10mm socket
when your done you should have 8 coils and 8 10mm nuts.
Next is to remove the fuel rail which is held on my four 8mm bolts, you have to wiggle the injectors to get them loose.
After that you should have the four 8mm bolts from the fuel rail, the fuel rail and the injectors, eight ignition coils and eight bolts for the coils
I kinda broke this little piece while swapping engines but i think it turns and you could pull it out of the oil fill area
next onto the the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine, these are the same bolts that the ignition coils where screwed on. unscrew 8 of them and note they will not pop out but make sure they are no long screwed into the heads. There are also two other bolts on oppisite sides on the manifold that I'm missing a picture from but same thing unscrew them with a 10mm. You can actually see the two bolts im talking about a few pictures up. its on the bottom left and top right corner
Next unscrew the mounting for the oil capacity "gauge" 10mm and lift up and remove intake manifold
Part one complete.
Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 09:31 AM.
Eww, soo much garbage underneath the intake manifold...
Removed intake manifold with throttle body
Intake ports are just a little dirty
Your next step will be to removing the crankshaft pulley so that you can remove the timing cover. I forgot what the socket size but it a fairly large socket. you need something to keep the pulley itself from spinning the repair manual suggest that you use some kind of chain contraption. Being cheap and not wanting to go buy some $50+ tool I figured if I wedged a C-clamp against the pulley and the block it would work. That bolt will be on there extremely tight so sometimes you need and "extension" to your breaker bar to get the job done.
after that use a 3 jaw puller on the pulley to slowly pull it off of the crankshaft.
I had to put a socket on the end of my puller because mine wasn't long enough to pull the pulley completely off the crank.
Next you have to remove the tensionor, you remove this by unscrewing a 13 mm bolt.
Your engine should now look like this.
next there are 14 bolt on the timing cover that you have to remove. Basically its all of the outside ones. KEEP TRACK OF WHAT BOLTS COME OUT OF WHERE AS THEY DO VARY.
Remove timing cover. it may be stuck onto your engine a few hits with a rubber mallet should knock it off. Take note there will still be coolant in your engine and it will go all over the floor as soon as the timing cover pops off. Its makes a mess, so be prepared.
next is to loosen the timing by compression a tensioner and shoving a pin through to hole to lower the pressure on the chain. I broke the stupid piece trying to compress it so I have no idea how you are suppose to do that without breaking something.
Next part is removing the heads off of the engine
Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 03:24 PM.
Alright so now moving onto removing the valve covers. There will be quite a few 10mm bolts that are pressed into the valve cover. Which means you can unscrew them from the head but they will not fall out of the valve cover.
Then you can just lift up on the valve cover and get it out of your way. This exposes the "internals" of your cylinder head.
Mine already has the camshafts removed but I will go through the process of removing it anyways since it will probably be helpful to someone.
Your camshaft will be sitting inside those little circle areas, I have no idea what the proper term is but you know what i'm talking about. next use a 15mm socket to remove the cam bolt. you will need to hold the cam still with something. Than you can pop of the timing sprocket out of the camshaft dowl pin. Next you have to undo the tops of the circle things that hold the camshaft down. Those are 10mm bolts and you need to loosen those bolts equally to distribute the pressure evenly. I recommend doing 1/2 turns at a time until the are loose enough to undo them by hand. You can just take the rocker arms off, they are just sitting there. You probably knocked one off when you were taking off the valve cover, its no problem at all.
With the camshaft removed and the timing already loosen, we have just two things to remove before you can start breaking those head bolts loose. You will have to remove the oil fill tube which is held on by four 8mm bolts
Next There is a cam access panel/bolt on the passenger side of the engine which is a monster nut looking thing. It took the second biggest socket I had to fit this thing. just unscrew this and it will give you access to remove the last part of the timing tension-ing system so that you can remove the head.
This is the last thing you have to remove to give you enough access to pull the head with easy. Its a T35 bolt that you just have to unscrew and pull the the tension-ing piece out.
For the other side its a plastic panel that you just have to pop out and do the exact same thing but with a 13mm socket
Your timing sprocket you can just take out,and let the chain fall into the engine so it gets out of your way.
OK so the moment you all have been waiting for... Its now time to loosen those head bolts and rip the cylinder head off your engine. There are 14 bolts that you will have to loosen in a sequence. Basically unscrew the tiny 4 head bolts that are in the area of the timing sprocket and outer head. Then move onto the head studs that are in the camshaft area. These are loosen with a 15mm socket and a breaker bar. Be sure to only turn these 1/2 a turn at a time otherwise you may warp your head in the process. Make sure that you loosen them by going across the head after every bolt.
You might not even get all of the head bolt completely out and the head will start to move around. After you get all the bolts out, lift up and look at your hopefully pretty pistons.
Mmmm. I like that it still has the cross etching and no marks in the cylinders!
Look at one of the heads from the underside.
Thanks for viewing my takedown! Coming soon will be the tearing down the bottom end!
Last edited by URBANRDNECK; 11-03-2011 at 03:26 PM.
WOW better than a haynes manual very informative, love the terminology, Great job will be waiting and watching. Thanx its ppl like you that help the great backyard mechanics, with scraped knuckls vise grip and a BFH