Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Dakota > 2nd Gen Dakota
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

exhaust flange bolts

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:51 PM
Jmageee902004 Jmageee902004 is offline
Amateur
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 42
Default exhaust flange bolts

I was wondering what size the exhaust flange bolts are on my 98 dodge dakota v6 4x4 auto i cant seem to get any size socket on it. I've got an exhaust leak from there, is this a common problem? it feels like the lower flange is loose and kinda looks like it rusted out. Also i was told that JB welding the sides of it could fix it as well. would JB hold up to the heat and pressure?
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
__________________
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-27-2011, 07:37 PM
Johnn123's Avatar
Johnn123 Johnn123 is offline
Record Breaker
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 360V8
Location: Lakefield, Ontario
Posts: 1,230
Default

I would imagine so, its good stuff! One guy at work told me they fixed something in a dump truck engine with it.
__________________
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport, Offroad, Auto, 4x4, 5.9L , 4.10, Hughes Plenum, SCT Hemifever, 33x11.5" mud tires, Magnaflow direct fit high flow cat, Cherry bomb vortex, 4" chrome tip, Tinted cab lights and corner signals, Bi-Xenon Super White Bulbs, Midland CB Radio, Decepticon Badges!!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-28-2011, 11:34 AM
dodgeramguy85's Avatar
dodgeramguy85 dodgeramguy85 is offline
Grand Champion
2002 Dodge Ram 2500
My Garage
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 02 Ram 2500 cummins
Location: Houtzdale,PA
Posts: 5,268
Michael Kokoskie
Default

Its not the heat and the pressure that you have to worry about its the movement of the pipes. I had a bad leak on my passenger side. I came to find out my flange rusted and let the bolt slide through which left it loose. I just cut the bolt off and put a new one in with a big washer on it so it couldnt pull through the hole again. Its not a new fix but will last a few years and didnt cost me a thing to do. Extra piece of info if you havent already pull the plastic inner fender do it to gain easier access to the flange
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-29-2011, 05:53 PM
2daks 2daks is offline
Professional
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Vehicle: 09 1500 SLT crew 4x4, 97 dak v6 ext
Location: Steeler Country
Posts: 150
Default

If the flange itself is toast they make a flange repair kit. Anywhere from 20 bucks for a Walker to about 5 for a cheap no name. Two "c" shaped pieces of metal and a couple nuts and bolts.

As for getting the bolts off the existing one try to come at if from the wheelwell with the tire off. Grinder or sawsall will save you some cussing. Aim right for the center of the bolt and cut it in two between the flange and the header. On my 97 the bolts just pass thru both flanges ( not threaded). New bolts and your done.

I used the repair kit for a few years then eventually replaced the y pipe when I did the whole exhaust.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-30-2011, 03:38 AM
macgollabhride's Avatar
macgollabhride macgollabhride is offline
Professional
1998 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Vehicle: 1998 3.9L/V6 Magnum Dodge Dakota 4x4 Club Cab
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 199
http://www.facebook.com/HandyManMcBride unckletickle
Default


It's a problem with just about any kind of car/truck; metal + extreme heat & moisture = corrosion.

If you have a nut & bolt set-up, I'd just grind-off the head or bolt and smack out the remains. It will save a lot of time and no innocent bystanders will get hurt. Wheel well is the best way, that I know, to get to it easiest.

If you have a threaded flange... then you need to get creative:
DO NOT USE a rust penetrating fluid on a situation like this!

Depending on your tool arsenal, comfort-level and knowledge, a torch, drill/tap & die could be a possible option. I would, personally weigh out that option against replacement.

I hope that this is some kind of help.
Good luck, none the less.
__________________
Mostly Black 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4:
V6 3.9L Magnum. Dynomax 17219 - Airaid: 300-107.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-30-2011, 10:41 AM
Mr. Beefy Mr. Beefy is offline
Rookie
1997 Dodge Dakota
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 71
Default

Go to napa and get a flange kit it's 2 pieces of steel that replace the old rotted out flange. Did it on mine before I got the new exhaust worked great.

And yes just cut the bolts off they're gonna break anyway
Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2011, 10:41 AM
Reply
 
 
 




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:22 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2