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exhaust flange bolts

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Old 12-27-2011, 04:51 PM
Jmageee902004 Jmageee902004 is offline
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Default exhaust flange bolts

I was wondering what size the exhaust flange bolts are on my 98 dodge dakota v6 4x4 auto i cant seem to get any size socket on it. I've got an exhaust leak from there, is this a common problem? it feels like the lower flange is loose and kinda looks like it rusted out. Also i was told that JB welding the sides of it could fix it as well. would JB hold up to the heat and pressure?
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:37 PM
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Johnn123 Johnn123 is offline
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Vehicle: 2010 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7L
Location: Lakefield, Ontario
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I would imagine so, its good stuff! One guy at work told me they fixed something in a dump truck engine with it.
2010 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 5.7L, Auto, 4x4 QCSB, Remote Start, Air Lift 1000, 20" LED Light Bar, Black Fender Hashes, Mickey Thompson MTZ 265/70/17
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:34 AM
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dodgeramguy85 dodgeramguy85 is offline
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Michael Kokoskie

Its not the heat and the pressure that you have to worry about its the movement of the pipes. I had a bad leak on my passenger side. I came to find out my flange rusted and let the bolt slide through which left it loose. I just cut the bolt off and put a new one in with a big washer on it so it couldnt pull through the hole again. Its not a new fix but will last a few years and didnt cost me a thing to do. Extra piece of info if you havent already pull the plastic inner fender do it to gain easier access to the flange
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:53 PM
2daks 2daks is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Vehicle: 09 1500 SLT crew 4x4, 97 dak v6 ext
Location: Steeler Country
Posts: 150

If the flange itself is toast they make a flange repair kit. Anywhere from 20 bucks for a Walker to about 5 for a cheap no name. Two "c" shaped pieces of metal and a couple nuts and bolts.

As for getting the bolts off the existing one try to come at if from the wheelwell with the tire off. Grinder or sawsall will save you some cussing. Aim right for the center of the bolt and cut it in two between the flange and the header. On my 97 the bolts just pass thru both flanges ( not threaded). New bolts and your done.

I used the repair kit for a few years then eventually replaced the y pipe when I did the whole exhaust.
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:38 AM
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macgollabhride macgollabhride is offline
Join Date: Oct 2011
Vehicle: 1998 3.9L/V6 Magnum Dodge Dakota 4x4 Club Cab
Location: Philadelphia
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http://www.facebook.com/HandyManMcBride unckletickle

It's a problem with just about any kind of car/truck; metal + extreme heat & moisture = corrosion.

If you have a nut & bolt set-up, I'd just grind-off the head or bolt and smack out the remains. It will save a lot of time and no innocent bystanders will get hurt. Wheel well is the best way, that I know, to get to it easiest.

If you have a threaded flange... then you need to get creative:
DO NOT USE a rust penetrating fluid on a situation like this!

Depending on your tool arsenal, comfort-level and knowledge, a torch, drill/tap & die could be a possible option. I would, personally weigh out that option against replacement.

I hope that this is some kind of help.
Good luck, none the less.
Mostly Black 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4:
V6 3.9L Magnum. Dynomax 17219 - Airaid: 300-107.

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Old 12-30-2011, 10:41 AM
Mr. Beefy Mr. Beefy is offline
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 71

Go to napa and get a flange kit it's 2 pieces of steel that replace the old rotted out flange. Did it on mine before I got the new exhaust worked great.

And yes just cut the bolts off they're gonna break anyway
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