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Exhaust leak 2 Flange rusted bad

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  #11  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:18 AM
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Default ok

Well maybe this is a good cheap option you remove the part then have them weld a fix to the part because a weld is the best for strength so you don’t need to do it again in a year.

Or maybe get a junkyard replacement part

Im trying to give you some options
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:03 PM
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Default Used exhaust manifolds 4.7

Used exhaust manifolds for the 4.7 are a dime a dozen price $30 then ad $15 to $25 shipping from any one of these places and this is only a small part of the list of used exhaust manifolds for the 4.7

Just make sure you get the correct side L or R side always call and make sure it will fit to be sure you can ask them to send you some pictures of the part I always do if they are not willing to do it go to the next place.

I will say a local junkyard is best if possible

http://www.car-part.com/

 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 08-14-2012 at 03:25 PM.
  #13  
Old 08-14-2012, 08:40 PM
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I know. Thanks
 
  #14  
Old 03-06-2013, 11:00 AM
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Does anyone know the OD of the pipe that books to the manifold on the 4.7 2001? Everyone asks me for this when I order. I'd have to remove the wheel to get a real good measurement or get under it in the cold and wet. Yes I'm a woose. That would be helpful. Thanks for your help. Gotta do this before CO eats too many brain cells.
 
  #15  
Old 06-08-2022, 01:37 PM
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Hello

I had the rusted exhaust manifold flange issue on my 2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7. One side was leaking a lot, the other side just a little… I was getting a P0171 and P2096 codes. The live data on my Bluetooth OBD reader showed one bank’s long term fuel trim pinned at +32% the other 7.8%… (the 2004 4.7 has 4 x O2 sensors and the left and right bank are monitored and fuel mixtures adjusted separately per bank, while the 2003 and earlier are done across the whole engine).

Once I put it on stands, pulled the front wheels, knocked the centres in of all the plastic rivets in the fender liners, and removed the plastic fender liners, it was pretty easy to cut the 2 flange bolts per side and then cut the flange in half to remove. The $10.99 Harbor Freight Air Cut off tool did the trick.

The Nichson 17177 split flanges fit pretty well ($6.99/ea at O’Reily’s). Not sure how long they will last… lots of surface area to easily corrode and I am in the rust belt. The Walker type with the halves bolting together may be better… but the Nichson do fit easily and were inexpensive/available.

Now, with the exhaust sealed up, the long term fuel trim seems to settled at 0% and 2.3% for the Banks and no more rich smelling exhaust. I need to drive it more to be sure, but all indicators are good.


Live Data after flange repair (above)


The these split flanges fit this vehicle 17177


Passenger side… above


Drivers side above


The cheap cut off tool did the job, but it uses a lot of air.
 

Last edited by howardk; 06-08-2022 at 05:40 PM.
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  #16  
Old 06-08-2022, 02:25 PM
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This was an almost 10 year old post. xD
 
  #17  
Old 06-08-2022, 05:37 PM
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Yea, definitely an old post, but I thought the Nichson split flange part number and some pictures might still help someone with same problem…
 
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2022, 09:43 PM
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Default Thnks HowardK

Old as it may be, I just did this same repair using your info/pics yesterday.

Cheers HowardK!
 
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  #19  
Old 06-29-2022, 01:09 PM
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not sure what brought me here but ,
when my exhaust failed at the donut area, that was the time I went with headers , think going on 10 years now...
 
  #20  
Old 06-29-2022, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CVMo
Old as it may be, I just did this same repair using your info/pics yesterday.

Cheers HowardK!
Good to hear! I did enough googling without being able to find exact part numbers for available split flanges that worked on this truck nor a summary of the repair process, so I thought a few notes/pics with p/n might help someone else out. Great!
 

Last edited by howardk; 06-29-2022 at 03:19 PM.



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