Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Dakota > 2nd Gen Dakota
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

2001 Dodge Dakota problems!!!

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-17-2012, 03:29 PM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default 2001 Dodge Dakota problems!!!

I bought a used 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad cab and I am having some weird stuff going on. The dome lights will not go out when you shut doors, the fuel gauge has gone to "E" a couple of times, the rear defroster button light is constantly blinking, and the A/C is going in and out. I think it is CTM but the mechanic where I bought the truck says it is not all related. Any ideas??????
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-18-2012, 01:54 AM
Crazy4x4RT's Avatar
Crazy4x4RT Crazy4x4RT is offline
Offroad Dakota Moderator
Dodge Forum Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 93 Dakota
Location: NM
Posts: 10,829
Default

I will move this to the 2nd generation Dakota sub-section.
__________________
My Youtube Videos! ----My Photo Albums---Solid Axle Swap ----- Leaf Spring Swap/flip ----2wd-4wd swap

"No truck should ever be lowerd! NEVER" Buy a car if you want it low!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-18-2012, 08:06 AM
lambs lambs is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john29588 View Post
I bought a used 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad cab and I am having some weird stuff going on. The dome lights will not go out when you shut doors, the fuel gauge has gone to "E" a couple of times, the rear defroster button light is constantly blinking, and the A/C is going in and out. I think it is CTM but the mechanic where I bought the truck says it is not all related. Any ideas??????
The first thing I would do is check all the fuses. My 97 has a fuse panel at the end of the dashboard as well as under the hood.

I had a brand new car that suddenly started turning on its interior lights when the doors were closed, and off when they were opened. That was a blown fuse.

I have no idea how this happens, but it happened to me. Maybe this will clear up some of it, and then you can focus on what is left.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-18-2012, 08:14 AM
01SilverCC 01SilverCC is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 3.9, 5-speed manual
Location: Clermont, Florida
Posts: 1,872
Default

Welcome to the forum...The AC is not controlled by the CTM, neither is the fuel gauge. If it were my truck I would start by load testing the battery, cleaning the battery cables and terminals and checking/cleaning all ground connections. If you have low voltage problems or battery problems with the truck it can cause all kinds of odd problems. Dakota's are very sensitive to bad batteries, if it gets below 12.5 volts the truck starts having problems. A bad battery can surely cause problems with the CTM, but I do not think the CTM is the main cause of the problems you described.

Also check your alternator. You should have at least 12.6 volts at the battery with the truck not running, and 13.5 to 14.5 volts on the battery with the engine running at idle and no electrical accessories turned on. Then turn on the AC, fan speed on high and turn on the high beam headlights and the voltage should still be at least 13.5 volts at the battery. If you have more than a one volt drop when you turn on the heavy electrical loads like the lights and AC, you should have the alternator tested. Best way to do that is remove it and take it to an auto parts store, they will check it for free. If one store says it is OK, take it to a different store for a second test, just to be sure.

Jimmy
__________________
"As long as you're in motion, you're moving in the right direction." - Ronnie Montrose

Last edited by 01SilverCC; 12-18-2012 at 08:20 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-19-2012, 07:28 AM
BrandonT BrandonT is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 38
Default

I'll piggyback here: twice in the last two days my dome lights have not shut off after closing the door (2001 Dak). I opened and closed the doors a few times and they finally turned off. I'm not having any other problems.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-20-2012, 07:43 AM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

OK... checked all the fuses didn't find any that were bad but I did notice that there is a wire in the back window that goes to the rear defogger strip that the whole strip has been pulled loose. Would this cause a fault that causes the rear defrost light to blink? I know it makes it where it wont work but just wondered if that would cause some kind of fault. Also I was able to get A/C working .... the light doesn't light up when the "snowflake" button is pushed. Does this mean that the Heater/AC control module behind dash at controls is bad or is there a bulb?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-20-2012, 07:45 AM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

Also ... the fuel gauge has never acted up again.... Who knows?!?! Electrical problems suck!!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:11 PM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

OK ... So here we go ... rear defroster light still blinking but dome light problem is fixed .... with a trade-off for now. I took it back to where I bought it and left it with them. They swapped the ctm (of course didn't tell me that and let me know I was right) so now the dome lights work right but my key fobs don't. The part numbers are not the same as the old one so who knows what the heck is going to happen next. All I know is I am getting ready to take a 9 hour trip and if I break down I am going to have to break someone's nose! I can't stand car dealers!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:26 PM
98DAKAZ's Avatar
98DAKAZ 98DAKAZ is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Vehicle: 98 Dakota 2.5L 5 speed AX-15
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 3,634
Default

The problem is shops and dealerships donít seem to want to listed to the customer in fact trying to get them to listen can be downright impossible I canít figure them out itís like they live in a different world of their own that has nothing to do with the customer.

Itís bizarre to me

I try to do all my own work its become so bad
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:53 PM
01SilverCC 01SilverCC is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 3.9, 5-speed manual
Location: Clermont, Florida
Posts: 1,872
Default

Your old keyless entry remotes must be programmed to work with the new CTM. The keyless entry system is an internal part of the CTM. Only a Dodge dealer can program the remotes, it has to be done with the Dodge DRB-3 scan tool, so unless the dealer where you bought the truck has a DRB-3, you could see if your Dodge dealer will program the remotes and then bill the selling dealership for it. Or you might pay for it yourself and try to get a refund from the selling dealer. The Dodge dealer would probably charge at least a half hour of labor for the re-programming.

Jimmy
__________________
"As long as you're in motion, you're moving in the right direction." - Ronnie Montrose
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-21-2012, 02:07 PM
98DAKAZ's Avatar
98DAKAZ 98DAKAZ is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Vehicle: 98 Dakota 2.5L 5 speed AX-15
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 3,634
Default

The dealership or shop that replaced the CTM should have known this but through lack of communication it was overlooked by the technician that took the work order.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-28-2012, 09:05 AM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

OK ... so now I have a new problem. When I was driving on cruise control down interstate at 70-75 mph all of a sudden check engine light comes on and kicks it off cruise (which I am assuming is because the computer detected a fault and kicked it off as a safety feature). Anyway, once I got down to a 1/4 tank of gas the truck starts surging like transmission is slipping but it doesn't surge when I put my foot into it and put the engine under a load. Any ideas for a quick and easy fix????
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-28-2012, 09:39 AM
01SilverCC 01SilverCC is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 3.9, 5-speed manual
Location: Clermont, Florida
Posts: 1,872
Default

First thing to do would be to check for trouble codes. Turn the ignition key from off to run and back to off 3 times, and on the third time leave it in the run position. Any codes you have stored will display in the odometer. There is a list of the codes and what they mean up in the sticky topics at the top of the Second Gen page.

I have no idea how the fuel level could cause a problem like that unless the fuel pump is bad and somehow starves for fuel when the fuel level in the tank is low. You may want to check the fuel pressure, you can get a good but cheap fuel pressure gauge kit at Harbor Freight. Fuel pressure at idle should be between 47 and 51 or 52 psi. When you turn the truck off, leave the gauge connected and if the pressure drops below 30 in less than 5 minutes then the fuel pressure regulator is bad. The only way to fix it is to replace the fuel pump, the regulator is built into the pump assembly.

Check for codes first, that is the best way to begin the diagnosis.

Jimmy
__________________
"As long as you're in motion, you're moving in the right direction." - Ronnie Montrose
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-28-2012, 11:34 PM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

Thanks Jimmy, I will check for stored codes in the morning.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-01-2013, 11:44 PM
john29588 john29588 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 7
Default

OK ... checked the codes and I am getting P0204 and P0121. I know 0204 has to do with the #4 injector and 0121 has to do with TPS voltage, but that is the extent of my knowledge. Help!?!?!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:59 AM
Robbadodge's Avatar
Robbadodge Robbadodge is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad 4X4
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 370
Robb Brewer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john29588 View Post
OK ... so now I have a new problem. When I was driving on cruise control down interstate at 70-75 mph all of a sudden check engine light comes on and kicks it off cruise (which I am assuming is because the computer detected a fault and kicked it off as a safety feature). Anyway, once I got down to a 1/4 tank of gas the truck starts surging like transmission is slipping but it doesn't surge when I put my foot into it and put the engine under a load. Any ideas for a quick and easy fix????
Picking out one little thing here, which may take you off course, but might help; so use with a grain of salt.

This sounds like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It can be an intermittent (not constant) problem until replaced.

My $,02
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-02-2013, 11:05 AM
01SilverCC 01SilverCC is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 3.9, 5-speed manual
Location: Clermont, Florida
Posts: 1,872
Default

Well it sounds like a bad injector to me. The injectors have constant 12 volts when the key is on and in the run position. The PCM switches ground inputs to each injector in a sequential order, so I doubt the PCM is bad. The #4 injector is the one in the middle on the right side of the engine on a V6, or it is the second from the right on a V8. I don't know which one it is if you have a 4.7. You may need to replace the injector to fix the problem, and it would not hurt at all to have a fuel induction service done to help clean out all of the injectors and the rest of fuel system too. Professional services like BG or Everwear work very well, most tire shops and garages will do one or the other of those. There is also a DIY fuel service kit made by 3M that you can buy at parts stores, it costs about $30.00. I don't know how well it might work though, I have never used it and don't know anyone who has.

The TPS is easy enough to change. It is on the left side of the throttle body. It is only held in place with two torx screws. If it were my truck I would use a good quality part like Echlin (Napa) for replacement of the TPS.

Once you get the injector and TPS replaced, you can either stop at a parts store and ask if they will clear the trouble codes for you or you can do a hard reset on the PCM yourself by disconnecting the negative battery cable and holding the ignition key in the start position for 30 seconds. This will clear all codes from the PCM, and you will need to drive the truck for a few miles so the PCM can learn and set itself for the new TPS. It should be done in probably less than 20 miles worth of driving.

Both the injector and TPS problems can cause the cruise and throttle problems you were having with the truck. If it has not been done already or if you do not have the maintenance history on the truck it might be good to go ahead and do a full tune-up with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The Belden Premium wire set from Napa is very good quality, it is every bit as good and better than OEM and is much better than the cheapie $20.00 wires you can get at other parts stores. The cap and rotor from Napa with brass contacts, part numbers MO26 and MO28 work great and last a long time. They are also made by Echlin and are very high quality. There are different opinions on plugs, personally I like NGK plain copper core plugs. They work great and are only about $2.00 each at Napa.

Jimmy
__________________
"As long as you're in motion, you're moving in the right direction." - Ronnie Montrose

Last edited by 01SilverCC; 01-02-2013 at 07:38 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-24-2014, 12:39 AM
MaxxFordham's Avatar
MaxxFordham MaxxFordham is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1
Question 1997-2004 DakotaS

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01SilverCC View Post
Dakota's are very sensitive to bad batteries....
Jimmy, your Dakota's... whats... are very sensitive? (What things *belonging to a Dakota, or your Dakota,* that are supposedly sentitive, did you mean to be referring to?)

Mike
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 12:39 AM
 
 
 
Reply




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:39 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails