Yeah I just unbolted the AC compressor and moved it to the passenger side although I know I'm not gonna be happy with the shape of the wires when I pull the engine... When I move it far over enough to clear the engine I'm pinching the hose right where it meets the compressor.

Anyway, today I have everything moved out of the way to lift the engine and about 80% of the connections off. I need to check the back of the engine now and remove all of those.

To those of you who can pull an engine and install one in 1 day I salute you. Cause it took me about 9 hours to tear apart the front end and connections but I was labeling almost every connector I pulled off.

Tomorrow the engine should be out.

 

It gets easier the more you do it.... When i pulled my trans earlier this summer i took me 3 days to get it out. I had to pull it a second time as the seal for the pump leaked but the good news was i had it out, seal replaced and re installed in one day.

 

The only engine I've replaced in a Dakota (3.9 V-6) took me about 12 hours, start to finish. And I was working in a shop, not under a shade tree. So don't feel too bad.

 

Thanks guys.

Tom, was the one you were working on a 4x4?

This is where I'm stuck now:

Only things left to unbolt is engine mounts, bellhousing bolts, and torque converter... that's it!

I'm trying to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the transmission but I'm stuck on one bolt that is attached to a bracket which connects to the front differential. I didn't snap a pic but the bolt is surrounded by metal brackets shaped like a U... I can fit a 16mm socket on it and thats it, no room for a rachet as it is too short, and an extension is too long. I tried a wrench too but nothing.

I'm stumped now... this bolt needs to come out because it connect the front dif to the transmission.

 

Nope, mine was a 4x2. I'm trying to remember what that bracket looked like on my truck, but it's not coming to me. What I usually do in your situation is lie under it and stare at it for a bit. Suddenly, the light will come on in my head and I'll think of a solution.

Sorry, that's all I have for you.

 

I can't help you specifically on your engine, tho it sounds like a tool you need is a tool you don't have. Shorter extension? A wobble extension? A flex (has like universal joints in it) extension? Breaker bar? Sounds like a trip to the tool store is in order.

My 96 is a 4x4, and it took me about 4 days to replace the rear main seal--in my carport, removing the front differential case completely from the truck to get to the pan. (also should have d/c the tie rod, but didn't.) The Dakota is the most difficult motor/trannie I've ever had the misfortune to work on. In my defense, I have to say that I replaced the seals and gaskets, and cleaned and painted the differential while I had it down. And getting it back in took some head scratching and figuring (and a motorcycle lift.)

My personal best was r&r a Chevy Sprint motor in 4 hours. Replaced the clutch too. No engine hoist necessary, I could lift the motor by hand. I was a lot younger, and had pulled that particular engine out a couple of times before. Easier than a motorcycle engine, even.)

There is a mind set, working on engines and such, which makes it all go a lot faster. It takes a while to get into, tho. For me it's planning my moves like a chess player, two or three moves ahead of where I am. And keeping my tools organized and clean. It isn't about speed, tho. It's about doing it all only once, and doing it right. (And not breaking anything, including parts of your body, along the way.) I'm kinda slow because I'm fastidious about cleaning & painting as I go. That takes a lot of extra time

 

Taking a break (letting it perk overnight even) helps alot, too.

 

Well I got that stubborn bolt off! I ended up using a wobble socket with a piece that converts a 3/8 to a 1/4. Only length that would fit. anything else was too short or too long.

After I got out out I realised i still had 2 more on that same bracket that connect to the differential housing. That's when I called her quits for the day. Sprayed some pb blaster and called her.

Suppose to get a ton of rain tomorrow so truck may be sitting on jack stands till next sat. I was hoping I could at least pull the engine today.

Oh well patience is key and I don't wanna rush it.

 

Sep7_zpse3e69d57.jpg

You're looking at the 2 *&@!ing bolts that took me close to 3 hours to get off and they are still not all the way out, but I was able to work around them loosened.

They fasten a bracket from the front differential to the transmission bell housing. The 2 bolts going into the transmission hold the inspection plate in place which I need to remove to get access to the torque converter bolts. I had to use a breaker bar with another pipe over it to loosen the 2 bolts... my air gun would not even touch them but it's probably due to my compressor, it's only a 30 gallon. Even with them loosened they were still too much for the gun.

Anyway, I have the cover off and torque converter to flex plate bolts off. Next is the bellhousing to engine bolts off (yes I have the transmission supported by a jack) then the engine mounts and she should be ready to come off.

I'm praying that this engine I have is a good one now.

 

It's not your compressor, it's your impact. Most of the home style impacts are worthless--just not enough torque to break the stubborn fasteners loose. I borrowed an Ingersol Rand impact and it made all the difference. I know you don't have a Harbor Freight nearby, but their 'Earthquake' line of impacts are almost as strong as the I-R--about 600 ft. lb. of torque, for under $100. Maybe someday when you're on a trip to the US, you can pick one up.

Keep at it. If it was easy, they wouldn't call it work. And you're learning and increasing your confidence and ability. They may have been put in with some loctite, more likely is that dissimilar metals caused some corrosion locking.

It might be tempting to leave those stiffeners and braces off when you reassemble. Don't. The engine/transmission assembly needs the additional bracing to stay strong and inline--you'd risk breaking something with out them. You can, however, get some new fasteners. Get the strongest you can find, tho.