Rear wheels locking Not ABS Related
#1
Rear wheels locking Not ABS Related
a guy im going to buy some dakota parts off of soon, is a fulltime mechanic, and i spoke to him about my brake issue, and he thinks my rear brakes need some attention, because slowing down to under 10mph then having the rears lock up and the truck comes to a screeching hault, that its rear brake related,
TO ME, i cannot tell if its just the rears, i think so, but when it happens, it jerks so damn hard its hard to tell, but the way i hear sliding, would suggest the rears are locking up
HE says, ABS Prevents lockups, shouldnt ever cause lock up, so he suggests i service my rear brakes, and my problem will go away, said something about springs being worn, i thought alot about what he said, and it really doesnt sound like its ABS Related, but im still a bit confused
I Really need to find whats causing this issue because its becoming rather annoying, ive had em lock up in front of a cop or two.... not fun.. im 24 and have never touched drum brakes before, so this shall be rather interesting
TO ME, i cannot tell if its just the rears, i think so, but when it happens, it jerks so damn hard its hard to tell, but the way i hear sliding, would suggest the rears are locking up
HE says, ABS Prevents lockups, shouldnt ever cause lock up, so he suggests i service my rear brakes, and my problem will go away, said something about springs being worn, i thought alot about what he said, and it really doesnt sound like its ABS Related, but im still a bit confused
I Really need to find whats causing this issue because its becoming rather annoying, ive had em lock up in front of a cop or two.... not fun.. im 24 and have never touched drum brakes before, so this shall be rather interesting
Last edited by LosadaMichael; 08-28-2013 at 07:25 PM.
#2
Drum brakes are not difficult to deal with. Just do ONE side at a time and take a picture of what you have beforehand if you've never done it before. Watch the shoes as well. The 4 are NOT identical. There are primary/secondary shoes. Usually the lining on the front (primary) is a bit shorter than that of the rear.
Use all new hardware, it's cheap. I'd replace the self adjusters as well (note: they often do not self adjust). New cylinders are cheap and good insurance as they do tend to seize as well.
ABS shouldn't let them lock up. ABS does not increase the brake pressure so if you're easy on the pedal it shouldn't lock up then either.
If you have a lot of clearance, re: badly misadjusted brakes, they can bind. By design they "pivot" when applied.
EDIT: soak the wheel cylinder mounting bolts and the brake line for a couple of days with a good penetrating oil. Use a brake line wrench to remove the line.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Use all new hardware, it's cheap. I'd replace the self adjusters as well (note: they often do not self adjust). New cylinders are cheap and good insurance as they do tend to seize as well.
ABS shouldn't let them lock up. ABS does not increase the brake pressure so if you're easy on the pedal it shouldn't lock up then either.
If you have a lot of clearance, re: badly misadjusted brakes, they can bind. By design they "pivot" when applied.
EDIT: soak the wheel cylinder mounting bolts and the brake line for a couple of days with a good penetrating oil. Use a brake line wrench to remove the line.
Good luck, keep us posted.
#3
Drum brakes are not difficult to deal with. Just do ONE side at a time and take a picture of what you have beforehand if you've never done it before. Watch the shoes as well. The 4 are NOT identical. There are primary/secondary shoes. Usually the lining on the front (primary) is a bit shorter than that of the rear.
Use all new hardware, it's cheap. I'd replace the self adjusters as well (note: they often do not self adjust). New cylinders are cheap and good insurance as they do tend to seize as well.
ABS shouldn't let them lock up. ABS does not increase the brake pressure so if you're easy on the pedal it shouldn't lock up then either.
If you have a lot of clearance, re: badly misadjusted brakes, they can bind. By design they "pivot" when applied.
EDIT: soak the wheel cylinder mounting bolts and the brake line for a couple of days with a good penetrating oil. Use a brake line wrench to remove the line.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Use all new hardware, it's cheap. I'd replace the self adjusters as well (note: they often do not self adjust). New cylinders are cheap and good insurance as they do tend to seize as well.
ABS shouldn't let them lock up. ABS does not increase the brake pressure so if you're easy on the pedal it shouldn't lock up then either.
If you have a lot of clearance, re: badly misadjusted brakes, they can bind. By design they "pivot" when applied.
EDIT: soak the wheel cylinder mounting bolts and the brake line for a couple of days with a good penetrating oil. Use a brake line wrench to remove the line.
Good luck, keep us posted.
#7
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#8
i pulled both drums off, the P/S looks fine, Dirty as hell, but i dont see anything that looks to be out of place
as for The D/S, the shoe closest to the rear bumper is pretty much all the way worn down, and i noticed that wheel bearing is bad, but other that, its just as dirty as the other side, but nothing fell out or looks out of place....
as for The D/S, the shoe closest to the rear bumper is pretty much all the way worn down, and i noticed that wheel bearing is bad, but other that, its just as dirty as the other side, but nothing fell out or looks out of place....