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2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

03 Dak threw a B**** fit

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Old 10-27-2013, 10:18 AM
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Default 03 Dak threw a B**** fit

Hi Gang..Stretch here..Got an 03 Dak ex-cab 3.9 I think it's a 46r trans...Anyway...Was cruisin to work the other day & tensioner seized and shredded the serpintine..On it's way out I't managed to grab BOTH trans lines and wrapped um up & over the crank pulley and sheared um off the brass connectors to the trans..Then if that wasn't enuf it grabbed the passenger side brake line and tore that off...And just for good measure...It busted the lower radiator hose. Was 100 yards from exit and limped to the shoulder leaving a 300 yard "blood & coolant trail"...I coasted 200 yards cuz I think the computer shut the motor down to keep from doing MAJOR damage to trans & motor.. After gettin it to the shop an tearin into the mess. I git all tore down & new parts re-installed..Filled the Rad & trans,filled the brake res,open the bleeder to let some air out....tightened it back & got in to fire it up..Had dash,trans warning light check engine ...dome & headlights..Turned the key..Heard the fuel pump hum...NO STARTER...cycled the key a few times and still nothin...Figured the commputer needed rebootin so disconected the pos terminal for 20 mins..Hooked it back up AND...Now Nothing..No Lights.12.38 volts in the batt..I,m stumped...Any Ideas what the heck is goin on....????
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Last edited by realspringer; 10-27-2013 at 11:02 AM..
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:23 AM
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98DAKAZ 98DAKAZ is offline
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So you are saying it will not crank over or it just will not start?

Have you checked the power distribution center for a popped fuse link?
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:27 AM
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No crank..AT first i heard the pump hum..Dinger was workin,had all the dash error light from when it craped out on the exit ramp..then when I disconected the batt & reinstalled ,now theres nothin..Ohm'd all the square fuses & pulled the little 2 prongers & there all good..My forte is metal.& sparks..But I have to admit..I'm an electrical Idiot...

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Old 10-27-2013, 10:31 AM
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Have you checked the power distribution center for a popped fuse link?
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:01 PM
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Well 98..Just got back from the shop & after a closer look..Found that the tranny line that runs above the starter had broke half the solenoid pig tail off the connector was just danglin there.It still plugs up tho...I've never seen so much collateral damage from a belt going...LMAO!!! The dash lights are still out sooooo..I guess it's gona get handed over to someone a little more electrical savvy than yours truly....ANYONE who has ANY ideas about this...Feel free to chime in
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:17 PM
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yea, that's alot of damage for a seized idler pulley. When both of mine failed, it just made spaghetti of the belt.

I think dakaz is on the right track. Something shorted out, and either a fuse popped, or a fusible link melted down. All of the interior lighting and dingers and what not are ran by the CTM behind the driver side kick panel, next to the parking brake. The dash is ran via a communications buss coming in from the PCM. Have you checked the chassis to body electrical connector? I know one is in the fenderwell behind the driver front tire, but I seem to recall there beign another embodied to the firewall under the master cylinder..probably a figment of my imagination left over from another vehicle though.
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:16 PM
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HAHA yea MAG...This is stumpin me..The hardware damage was a no brainer........I'm gona have to admit electrical ignorance & pay the fiddler....It's computer related I'm sure Or ....So much water vapor soaked the fuse box it's just not havin a good day....It's off to an electrical GURU...Which i absolutely am NOT....I can't see it work I can't fix it.....30 years i been buildin Bikes....My Boys gota wire um...Sad ....But true...LMAO!!!!

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Old 10-28-2013, 12:40 AM
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I figured that Dan or Jimmy would have popped in by now saying which wires to probe for voltage at the CTM.

Did you unhook the positive or negative to reset the PCM? supposed to pull negative...pulling positive causes a spark and EM wave that goes back to the electronics. I've not seen it kill anything built robust, but I've seen it zap simple circuits with no built-in protection.

If the trans temp light came on and stayed on with the engine off, then the PCM got damaged somehow. Unplug the 3 connectors on the PCM and blow them out with compressed air. Same with some of the PDC. Trans fluid is conductive and can cause all kinds of havoc.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:22 AM
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I believe your onto somethin....When I got everything buttoned up..filled the brake res & 4qts of +4 ..I jumped in to cycle the 4 qts thru...All the dash lights came on like normal..PLUS the trans Temp & ABS Lights..But when I Turned it far enuf to engage the starter I got nothin...I SAW WHY TODAY...The soleniod connector was just danglin in space..The tranny line knocked it off when it came forward...No wonder I had no starter... Starters good cuz I jumped it over just to eliminate that possibility..SOOOO..in my electrically handicapped world...I figured the computer need to reboot....So I pulled the + clamp..waited ten minutes wile wipen off the coolant & trans fluid on stuff & got back in to fire it up & nothin this time..I got the door dinger & the clock,which goes out when I turn the key..LOL....I'd live in a perfect world if the water wheel was still generating power....Your machines quit workin EVEN RAY CHARLES COULD SEE WHY....LMAO
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:27 PM
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I think the CTM runs the door dinger. I know it runs the lights. If you scroll the dimmer wheel all the way up so the dome lights come on, then close the door, the lights should turn off after about 10 minutes. That would verify that the CTM is behaving. The dash is it's own computer running off a communication buss to the PCM, so anything it says would be as interpreted from PCM (or a no-bus error in the odometer window, which is self explanatory). At key-on, all lights should come on briefly, then i think air bag and a few others turn off after 3-5 second. I never pay attention to mine :P . If ABS and trans temp both stay on, then I would climb under and check the connectors going to the transmission. ABS is read off the rear axle housing (not sure where cable runs), and trans temp is read through the transmission governor sensor harness. Get the starter hooked back up proper, and see if it will bump using the key. The neutral safety switch is on the column I believe, so it should have been saved from damage.
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