After I bypass the factory amp how do I wire the new tweeters to the head unit? The new component speakers came with tweeters and crossovers. How do I wire the crossovers? What wires do I wire together to bypass the amp?

 

I can't remember from your previous posts..You do have the factory Infinity amp, right? Do you have factory-installed tweeters on your sail panels on the front doors?

Jimmy

 

yes and yes.

 

OK. Which speakers did you get for the front? I remember you were looking at several different brands. Can you post a pic of the tweeter and crossover or post a link so I can see what you bought? Once I see the size and design of the crossover and tweeter I can give you some tips on mounting and wiring.

Jimmy

 

These are the front speakers.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-11DS65.2.html

 

The tweeters will do best if you mount them behind the factory tweeter grilles. The Kicker tweet is smaller than the factory tweeter grille so it would be tough to try cutting out the factory grille for a flush mount or even an angle mount. Best thing on those will be to stop by any good car stereo shop or maybe a Best Buy and get a sheet of black ABS plastic. You can cut a piece of ABS out to fit behind the tweeter grille, it does not have to be pretty, you won't see much of it at all thru the grille. Then cut a hole in the ABS for the flush mount tweeter method and either use the factory tweeter screw provisions or you can hot glue or epoxy the tweeter in place. Tweets are fairly light, it will be OK that way but screwing it in is best.

On the crossover mounts look at the door itself. Just below and to the right (or left depending on which door it is) of the area where the tweeter goes there is a flat area where you can screw the tweeter directly to the door. There should be enough room there to screw in the crossovers and reinstall the door panel. I had my Alpine crossovers mounted there and they were bigger than your Kicker ones. Use duct tape to temporarily stick the crossover in place and loosely reinstall the door panel till you see where to place it and still be able to get the panel back on. There actually is a fair amount of room between that part of the door panel and the door itself.

Then the side of the crossover with a single wire is the input to the crossover. Connect that input to the factory speaker wire at the midrange woofer at the bottom of the door. Then on the other end of the crossover one set of wires goes to the mid and one to the tweet. They should be labeled. The tweeters and mids get wired to the crossover network, and the crossover network gets wired to the deck power. Think of the crossover as a traffic cop, it takes input from the deck and routes high frequencies to the tweeters and midrange/midbass frequencies to the midranges. On the factory system, it is wired from the radio to the midrange speaker first, then there is a jumper wire from the midrange connection up to the tweeter. You will see when you remove the door panel.

As for bypassing the amp, go by the info Dan and I posted earlier in your other post. You may find the old color code for speaker wires at the radio location, which is this chart here:

Left Front + Green or Green/White
Left Front - Brown/Red

Right Front + Violet
Right Front - Blue/Red

Left Rear + Brown/Yellow
Left Rear - Brown/Light Blue

Right Rear + Blue/Orange
Right Rear - Blue/White

You may also find the new 2001 color codes at the deck location, which is this chart here:

RF + Light Blue/Red
RF - Light Blue/Black

LF + Light Green/Red
LF - Light Blue/Black

RR + Tan/PurpleT
RR - Tan/Dark Green

LR + White/Red
LR - White/Black

Like I replied in your other post, it depends on when your truck was built. My own truck was built on Sept. 13, 2000 and has the newer color codes in the doors and in the dash at the radio location. I have seen Dakota's and Jeeps with the old style color codes at the radio but new style color codes at the speaker locations. It depends on the production date of the truck. If you go by the wire color codes at each speaker location and use a wire harness to wire in the new deck in the dash you should not have to worry about it much. Bypassing the amp will take some time, you need to identify what color wires you have there, should be the same as in your other post but you can either cut and splice there or there is an easier way. You can just tap into the speaker output wires at the amp location with new lengths of speaker wire long enough to get from the kick panel to the dash and wire in the new deck that way. Then just use your 9 volt battery to identify which wires go to which speaker. Make sure you get the polarity right and it will be fine to do it that way.

One other way to wire it is to run your own wires from the tweeters and the mids from the door into the truck and then find a good spot to hide your crossovers and run your own new wires from the deck to each crossover. On the door itself, look at the big rubber grommet that has the factory wires for speaker, door locks etc running through it. You can pop that grommet out of the door and drill a hole in the bottom of it for your new speaker wires to run through. Then look at the truck side of the door jamb. The factory wires run up to a molex plug and it is impossible to get wires through there but below the big rubber grommet on the door jamb there is an empty round rubber grommet, about the size of a half-dollar. You can pop that out and poke a hole in it to run your wires into the cab. That is how I did it in my truck back when I had a big system in it. It's not required to do it that way but to me it is better because there is less splicing so less chances of a wire coming loose or some other problem. Plus I was able to use larger wire which helped out because I had my amp located back behind my driver's seat.

Try some of these tips and see how they might apply to what you are doing with your system.

Jimmy

 

So I'm essentially rewiring the door speakers?

 

Sort of. You can use the factory speaker wire from the amp that goes to the midrange in the door as the input to the crossover. Mount the crossover on the door surface and run its outputs to their respective Kicker tweeter and midrange. That is not really rewiring, it is just running the wire from the crossover to the speakers. It will be fine wired that way when using deck power or even using the factory Infinity amp. If you used an amp with any decent amount of power it would be best to run all new wires from the door into the truck and to the crossover/amp location.

Jimmy

 

So I hook the factory wiring to the bullet connectors on the crossover wires?

 

I don't see any bullet connectors on the crossovers in the pic. The outputs are marked tweeter and midrange, plus the wire set with silver terminals is for the mid, the gold terminals are for the tweeter. The input wires are bare with no terminals at all, they have to be soldered or butt-connected to the output wire at the midrange location in the door. Pretty straightforward once you get the crossover mounted..

Jimmy