First thing first: When I bypassed my power steering pump, I was in an O'Reilly parking lot in the dark, wore out. So don't ask me how in the world I managed to put the belt on wrong (and my core support is out of a 4.7, so the label is wrong). That said, I haven't had any water temp issues and the pump is still spinning the right direction, so….

But none of that will matter soon. Now granted I'll still have to get it kinda right on the street, I'll be running as a double bypass once I get the cog belt hooked up, at the track. Only thing I will be belt driving will be the AC compressor and the alternator (and when racing, AC is off).

The main thing here is so that I can run the water pump and fan with the engine off, circulating and cooling the water. The E-Drive isn't rated for street use, but it technically could be if watched closely. It's just a 12VDC motor, so nothing really special.

The bracket is made to fit any engine ever made basically, but for the small block chrysler, it wasn't designed to fit with the magnum's accessory system. So right now I have it mounted with one bolt, I'll probably add a spring from the bottom adjustment slot down to the fender or core support or something to keep it from winding back on the belt.

The 21" belt included with the kit is much too long, thankfully amazon has a whole selection of replacement belts. I may see if O'R happens to have any, but it's doubtful-
Also, the adapter between the pulley and water pump is not included in the kit. That is a flex-a-lite part that takes the 30x1.5mm thread and adapts it to a 4 bolt fan pattern, which happens to be JUST smaller circle than the bolt holes in the moroso pulley, but nothing my dremel couldn't take care of. The pulley has a centering divot, so you don't have to worry about messing up the alignment when slotting the holes.

The motor just clear the water pump and crank pulley all the way up, if I can get a pair of pliers on that hose clamp, I can rotate it up where it no longer is an obstacle. Having the motor too far down will not allow the belt to pass from the tensioner to the crank, so I'll need the absolute shortest belt I can get that won't cause interference between motor and WP. I will measure the belt length needed in the morning.

I blue lock-tited all 4 bolts from the WP pulley to the WP adapter, and flooded the WP nut in blue lock-tite so that hopefully the assembly will not spin loose. The WP spins anti-clockwise, which means that when the pulley is driven, it will be trying to spin off the shaft if the WP has too much resistance. If that does not work, I may have to go to red locktite, but I really hope it doesn't come to that. I have a lock-washer on the end of the bolt that the motor is mounted to, but I may still pull it back out and put blue lock-tite on those threads as well. Other than that, picking a belt and setting the drive pulley offset is all I need to do. I'm hoping i can clear the mounting bolts an push the pulley all the way back against the motor casing. Otherwise the belt will be very close to the end of the WP pulley, with only the driven pulley's shoulders to keep it from walking off.

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I just ordered a belt. Here's the complete parts list:

17.625" x 1/2" x 3/8 pitch timing belt $4.47

Fan-Water Pump Interface Adapter $45.97

Moroso Water Pump Drive Kit $99.97



I also got 2 line locks and a fitting set on the same order, to eventually get put on the brake system.

Line Lock Solenoid $39.97

Wilwood NPT to SAE-IF adapters $7.57


I'm also looking at getting a Battery Tray (50301B) PHOTO to put under the bed in front of the right rear tire. I'll have to fab up a mount, but I'm thinking I may be able to use the bed mount and just work off of it to fit the battery tray. Then I'll add a group 24 battery (the box is 11" x 7") and run #2 wire from that battery to an anderson connector next to the box, up to the stock placement battery. The ground I may just attach to the frame or I may run it up to the engine block (or both). This will allow me to be able to start on a dead primary battery, and also allow to use a 40 amp battery charger at the track with both batteries linked up and not run the serpentine belt at all.

 

Ive run one of these electric pumps on the mirada for at least 10 years without any problem on the street or track. Im going to feature this as my "tech thread" today.

 

Thanks Bad Strat. The belt should be here tuesday.

Also, most alternators take about 6.5 HP to drive. There are numerous dyno tests out there, but the main one is that on a dragster, taking the belt off is worth about 8 hundredths of a second. Alot of dragsters now (us included) run a 16 volt battery and no alternator, others take the weight penalty like I will on the truck, and run 2 12V batteries in parallel with or without alternator. This allows us to hotlap several times before getting below the 12.8 volt Critical Starting Voltage. Some racers now run 18 volt systems without alternator- a 12 volt battery for electronics with a 6 volt lawn battery in series between the starter solenoid and starter. This allows 18 volts when starting and 12 for everything else.

Water Pump Factoid Sheet

Also, the Pumpkin Popsicle got us a new mantle piece this weekend:

 

so the small pulley managed to come off the shaft, so i had to order a replacement. Test fit today with the 1775 series belt, perfect fit. The WP and PS bypass drive belt is about 68", i'll pick that up later this week. Also going to put a steel clamping collar on the end of the shaft so the pulley can't come off again.

I got a bosch relay today and got the harness wired up. Unfortunately I can't find any of the high power diodes I had, so i'll have to order one. In the meantime i'm going to bare-bones it so the motor comes on with the ASD/coil/MSD wire. I can add the diode and dash switch jumper later on.

12 gauge power-hot (goes to 80 amp MAXI fuse currently running fan, may get replaced with 100 amp fuse if needed), 12 gauge signal-hot (from ASD/coil/MSD wire), single 12 gauge ground (motor and coil bridged to single lead), and positive motor lead.

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wiring is hooked up and tested and disconnected. Just need to get a 68" belt at O'R and 1/4" clamping collar at ace hardware. Also want to see if I can take a piece of bailing wire and make a hook to catch the cog belt in the event it comes off the big pulley. Wish it had an outer lip on it.

 

Looks like you measured 69" around the belt travel path and subtracted an inch. Correct?

 

pretty much. I measured with the tensioner all the way out, so figure minus an inch gives a general working zone, albeit on the outer edge. 67.25-67.75 probably better ranges.

 

everything is hooked up and seems to be working. The drive belt I used is an autozone 675K6 (67.5" ID/68.0" OD) and the pump belt is a 177L050 (17.75 ID) from VbeltSupply.com . The drive belt was a very tight fit so I would advise using a 680 series belt. It fit with the tensioner pulled all the way in to get the belt on, then went about 1/4" back out. Once the belt stretches it should be fine. It started downpouring during the quick test drive to the end of the street and back so I didn't get to come up with any way of a belt retainer.

 

VIDEO:

I went on a test drive, sustained RPM at 4000+ gets the water to a peak of 204 but very quickly (like 10 seconds) was back to low 190's and maybe 20 seconds to 180's. I recorded the test drive but only a select few may get to see it. It was a little wet out.

Note that for the magnums, the motor gets wired BACKWARDS to spin the correct direction. The drive motor shaft is 5/16, so I got a pair of set screw collars from Ace to put in front of the pulley on the remainder of the shaft, and blue locktited the setscrews, as well as the set screw on the pulley itself.


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