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Brake Line Fittings (to junction block)

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Old 07-22-2014, 10:07 PM
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Default Brake Line Fittings (to junction block)

So today was a nightmare replacing my calipers, brake hoses, pads and rotors.

Rust made everything so much fun but now I'm stuck. The truck is back together but it's leaking fluid from the brake line that runs from the driver side brake hose to the junction block directly below the master cylinder (little cube that rests on the frame).

I know that it's a 3/16 fitting that runs to the brake house, but the fititg for the junction block is different.

I tried salvaging the existing fitting and putting it on a new piece of line and flaring it, but it still leaks.

To make matters worse, I called the dealer as I was ready just to buy the whole line (which is only $22 so its not bad), it turns out their is no warehouse/dealer in Canada that has the line I need.

So that leaves me alone to buy a new line and fitting and flare it myself and hope it doesn't leak.

SO PLEASE, if anyone has replaced the brake lines that run into the junction block please share what size the fitting is, I brought the old one to the parts store and the 3/16 is too small, 1/4 looks slightly too small, and a 5/16 is too big.

Thank you.

For anyone wondering, this is the little block I'm talking about on the driver side frame rail

 
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sxrsil3nt
So today was a nightmare replacing my calipers, brake hoses, pads and rotors.

Rust made everything so much fun but now I'm stuck. The truck is back together but it's leaking fluid from the brake line that runs from the driver side brake hose to the junction block directly below the master cylinder (little cube that rests on the frame).

I know that it's a 3/16 fitting that runs to the brake house, but the fititg for the junction block is different.

I tried salvaging the existing fitting and putting it on a new piece of line and flaring it, but it still leaks.

To make matters worse, I called the dealer as I was ready just to buy the whole line (which is only $22 so its not bad), it turns out their is no warehouse/dealer in Canada that has the line I need.

So that leaves me alone to buy a new line and fitting and flare it myself and hope it doesn't leak.

SO PLEASE, if anyone has replaced the brake lines that run into the junction block please share what size the fitting is, I brought the old one to the parts store and the 3/16 is too small, 1/4 looks slightly too small, and a 5/16 is too big.

Thank you.

For anyone wondering, this is the little block I'm talking about on the driver side frame rail

I believe it is 3/16 unless yours is different, that's what I observe, roughly 4.5mm.

I say that and I literally have a junkyard line on the floor next to me. I was just going to replace it with 3/16. The main thing is re-using the original fittings because they have the unthreaded portion.

I was going to re-flare my junkyard lines for the line-locks, but decide I'd be better off getting new lines, cutting, re-using old fittings, and go from there.
 
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:36 AM
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I can tell you that the fitting that meets the junction block is not 3/16's and that's why I'm having such a difficult time.

I've tried reusing the original fitting but the threads were pretty shot, the head I had to grind down from a 12mm to an 11mm due to rust.

I don't drive this truck as a DD anymore, so right now its sitting with a slow leak coming from the junction block. I would like to replace it and fix it properly but I have no idea what the fitting size is. My neighbour suggested an adapter that will fit into the junction block, and then accept the 3/16 line I have but first I need to know the size.
 
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:59 PM
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My local napa had the line and fittings for the different ends. I had to pay a little more for the fitting but no flaring.
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:30 PM
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Do you recall what size fitting was one the other end? I know 3/16 works fine for the brake hose. No idea what it is for the junction block.

And my local part source only has same end fitting sizes (ie: 3/16 to 3/16)
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:13 PM
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No that was over 3 years ago. I ended up taking my block off and just took it in. The ends on the line are the same but I had to get a reducer connector. Just screw it into the block then the line into that.
 
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeramguy85
No that was over 3 years ago. I ended up taking my block off and just took it in. The ends on the line are the same but I had to get a reducer connector. Just screw it into the block then the line into that.
Yeah this is what I think I'm going to do next. Althought I can get my block off without risking stripping the head off another line lol.
 
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:41 AM
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This is weird. I promise you guys that I have the lines in hand, and the tubing is very much 3/16 bubble flare on both ends! Now the fittings I think are proprietary as they have an unthreaded nose. My plan was clean the fitting in the wire wheel, stick it on 3/16 new tubing, then reflare the other end at an EDF to match my line locks.
 
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:58 AM
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If one line rusted into the other 2 are not far behind. When you fix one line you WILL put pressure on the remaining old lines and be back working on the brakes in a week or two. been then done that.

Best thing to do is all new line down. new "T" and new lines to the hoses.
Advance or NAPA should be able to match up the existing hose that connects to the line. Then get that line and a "T" to fit it. If you don't want to replace the line coming off the splitter up top then connect it with a compression couplin.

Or ask the dude or dudette at the counter if you can go behind counter and look at the lines. buy what you think you may need. unions and couplins too. keep the receipt and return what you don't use or muck up.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...own-tools.html

and

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-q-3-16-a.html

Kilgore
 
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:04 PM
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Just replaced every hard brake tube on my "97 - due to a rust-through on the rear (exciting when this blew under a panic stop!). The lines are 3/16, the fittings at the calipers are M10X1.0, the fittings at the junction block are M12X1.0. There were 2 fittings (I think at the RWAL control unit) that are M11X1.5.
M10X1.0 and M12X1.0 are available in bulk packs for 3/16" lines. I was able to chase (clean/recut) the threads on the M12s. I used new M10X1.0. Additionally I used a plastic coated new line material called Poly Armor, as I plan on keeping the truck.
 


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