Hello Everyone;

I'm starting a new e-fan projects; I loved my previous 2001 Jeep Recall fan but I really want better efficiency and too lazy to build a custom shroud to fit this odd shaped rad, or try and seal up the gap between the factory mech. shroud and electric fan mounted on it. It still worked great but I just want a step better.

So i looked into after seeing an SRT Jeep Grand Cherokee having a loud *** Electric fan on her.. i checked Rock Auto and sure enough the 5.8 and 6.4L both have the same electric fan/shroud assembly.. also used on the 2011~up Durango with V8's..

It measures 25x20 Shroud area and i can cut the tabs off and put my own mounting brackets on it. The 97' Kota Core is about 21-15/16 x 22-5/16 and up untill the cross frame i have about 24.5 inches i can cover with this mounting on it's side and seal up any gaps with some gasket.



A. Rock AUto has TYC brand for about 109 shipped.. Not sure if TYC aftermarket will be as good as the OEM; i'd assume it has to meet OE specs in order to function properly I'd assume?

B. So I'm trying to find more information for the controllers i used to find the 30a controllers but they have all vanished from summit; with that said I'm looking to finding the best controller that is very simple for me to install and hook up.. with out spending a ton either for like the Dakota controller or one of the other one's.

I would really want the following:

- On with AC on..
- Temp adjustable 180~200
-30 amp or better

C. Anyone know what these Green coil thing are on these newer e-fans?? The connector has 3 wires, but the fan only shows to use 2.. the fan should be able to run full speed just off direct voltage input like any other fan right with out having that 3rd wire hooked to anything? This is from a 2014 Grand Cherrokee v8 if that helps. I'm trying to search google know to see if there is any information out there.

Thoughts feed back suggestions? Maybee this will be the next Electric fan option>>????

I'm waiting to purchase till i do some research.

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Alright I would have had to do this either way as i never did put a controller on my previous fan; Here is my game plan...

For 30amp fan; there are not alot of controllers that will support that amperage; i've searched searched and searched with out paying big money for a Dakota or one of the $200+ FCM's most are 25 amp continuous..

After toying with the idea of using the controller just as a hot lead to a battery isolator to complete the hot circuit the controller i picked out i realized the temp range was 180 on and 165 off (LOL) so i went searching again this time I found exactly what i was looking for..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...a/instructions

this one says 35amp continuous so this should work and worse case if it does happen to go into protect ill just buy a 17.00 isolator and wire it that way.

I'm going to be pulling the trigger on this today i think to get it shipping here once i double check my budget.

 

I would run a small ccontroller and just have it control 70 amp relays wired to the battery?

 

That's what i was going to do with the battery isolator they use in car audio to connect the 2nd batteries just needing a hot lead (from fan controller) was going to go with a cheaper one and the isolator would work perfect but like i said i noticed it was the wrong temp range..

Let me correct this; the other cheap one's are all ground one's not hot output so i cant use them in that manner. and the other cheap one's dont support AC or bypass. which is a must.

But im leaning more towards the other one but the probe version that is 105

 

I just pulled the trigger on this fan and the Derale FCM SHould be here sometime end of this week or early next.

next I'll be sources a hot lead off the AC switch.. for the bypass; i don't like the idea of the fan cycling with the compressor..

then finding a positive lead to hook up from the key. Looking to tap something in the fuse box under the hood maybe?

Fuel pump relay maybee?

 

I'm going to hook my fan and W/P drive to the coil wire (which runs off the ASD relay) and disco from the factory pigtail lead completely, that way both run with engine on. Obviously I have to put a diode in the feedline so my dash switch doesnt turn the fuel pump on with motor off.

 

Well all i really need is a hot source that is activated by the key to kick the unit on; then a secondary hot lead from the AC controls in the cab i figure i can find a hot lead for only when the AC is on in there i can tap into for the AC bypass instead of using the clutch wire which woudl cause the fan to cycle on/of/on/of constantly with the clutch lol

i dont think a resister is needed for that.

 

But i'm still wondering wth that green coil and 3rd wire is for though.. i have a post over on the jeep forums but nothing yet in response. I wish someone would chime in on what that thing is.

 

do you not have the factory fan pigtail sticking out of the harness? I'm going to just set my W/P and fan together for always-on operation.

 

No, 97 did not have the electric fan so it was not even in the wiring harness yet.I dont think it hit till the change over in 01