anyone know the correct size of the freeze plugs on the sides of the 5.2? i had 2 leaking (1 on each side) and took it to a shop to get it fixed and they couldnt find the right size so they ended up putting rubber ones in and the drivers side popped out after 3 days. the shop had my truck towed back and fixed it again (without charging me) but now it freaks me out having to depend on it to get me to work and back. are the rubber plugs any count or should i take it somewhere else?

 

I have rubber plugs in mine for the exact same reason. I got english sized ones to fit the front in brass, but 1-5/8 does not fit the sides at all. I wouldn't know where to find metric brass ones...

 

3.9 http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product...FUKCMgodknwAGA

5.2 http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product...FQopaQodC54Axg

5.9 http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/products_id/1964888/fit_id/10076/Year/2001/Make/Dodge/Model/Dakota?gclid=CNSW3snstcECFe0-MgodZmYA3Q

 

well my truck made it to work and back all weekend without the rubber freeze plus leaving me stranded. i still get freaked out hearing the engine pop from warming up tho. how long have you had the rubber plugs magnethead? since my trans is messed up my normal driving rpms is between 2000 and 2500 sometimes getting close to 3000. im waiting to loose a plug again driving around like that lol

 

I've had them in since March. As long as they are sinched down tight, they shouldn't leak. That said, rubber can and will break down, just a matter of time. There's just no good way to do the outers without pulling the motor out of the truck. RPM won't affect the plugs as much as heat and cooling system pressure. I have a 180 stat and big racing radiator with mark 8 fan behind it and electric water pump, usually hangs out in the upper 180's on my digital display. I run mine hard, 2000+ with frequent runs to the rev limiter.

 

well before the shop hed to fix it the second time my heat worked good but now it takes forever to warm up and dont feel warm unless its on low so it think the shop might have taken the thermostat out.

 

it would be throwing a "engine too cold too long" engine light code if the thermo was removed.

 

i found another leak today on the hose that goes from the heater core to the water pump. the old rubber o ring finally gave out. i found a smaller and thinner o ring i had and a good bit of Teflon tape to put on it for a temporary fix until i can get the right o ring for it. let it run for about an hour and had the defroster set on full blast while revving it up some and so far its not leaking anymore. the heat was even kinda warmer too.

 

drove my truck today with my "temporary" fix and it didnt blow the teflon tape off like i expected. i think im just going to wait untill it does come off to fix it the right way. i know im cheap but a free fix is always better than having to deal with the part stores giving you something you didnt want and over charging for it.