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Overheating issue (4.7)

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Old 12-24-2014, 10:42 PM
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Default Overheating issue (4.7)

Hey guys, I'm looking for a bit of insight into an issue I've recently been having with my truck.

It's a 2004 Dakota with a 4.7. I'll throw in as much detail as I can, whether it may be related or not.

If I start it and it idles for a while I get no heat from the vents. If I start driving it then it I finally get heat from the vents.

Where it gets a little weird is on my temperature gauge. I can't say the exact temperature but it has always read just under half on the gauge. I'm finding however that it starts to heat up if I slow down for a stop and it gets closer to 3/4. Usually at that point I pull over, shut it off and let it cool down.

I'm not really sure where to start with it. A friend has suggested its a head issue.

I'm also getting a p0301 code but that I know how to deal with and I don't know that its related to overheating issue.

Thank you for any insight.
 
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Roogiee
Hey guys, I'm looking for a bit of insight into an issue I've recently been having with my truck.

It's a 2004 Dakota with a 4.7. I'll throw in as much detail as I can, whether it may be related or not.

If I start it and it idles for a while I get no heat from the vents. If I start driving it then it I finally get heat from the vents.

Where it gets a little weird is on my temperature gauge. I can't say the exact temperature but it has always read just under half on the gauge. I'm finding however that it starts to heat up if I slow down for a stop and it gets closer to 3/4. Usually at that point I pull over, shut it off and let it cool down.

I'm not really sure where to start with it. A friend has suggested its a head issue.

I'm also getting a p0301 code but that I know how to deal with and I don't know that its related to overheating issue.

Thank you for any insight.
Sounds like you have a pushed head gasket on #1.
 
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:58 PM
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Have you checked the coolant level lately? Are you losing coolant?

It is possible that you have a head gasket leak. You can get a kit that detects combustion gases in the coolant.

Unfortunately the P0301, misfire cylinder #1, may be related.

Pull the #1 sparkplug and give it a close look. If it appears very clean, it can indicate a leaking cylinder.
 
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Old 12-24-2014, 11:05 PM
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My coolant overflow level seems to be fine, and I don't see any indications of a leak. However is the overflow the proper way to check the level?

I replaced the spark plugs little over a year ago with champions. I've since picked up a new coil and spark plug. I'll take out the current one tomorrow and see.

If a parts store around here is open on the 26th I'll grab a kit and test the coolant.

Thanks.
 
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Old 12-24-2014, 11:19 PM
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Yes, the overflow tank is the correct way to test the level - but only if your radiator cap is working properly and the line between the cap and tank is connected.

Just for kicks, when the engine is cold take the cap off. It should be full to the rim.
 
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Old 12-24-2014, 11:32 PM
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The truck has been sitting for about 6 hours so I went out and checked the level under the cap. It's not full, not at all. Whenever I checked the overflow it always seemed high but maybe because I was checking while the engine was warm. Now it looks quite low. I park the truck on pavement and I've never noticed any puddling or leakage.

I was looking around videos (this one in particular:
). I guess first things first I should take the rad cap off, the bleeder screw out and pour in some new coolant then let it cycle with the engine running for a while to get the air bubbles out?

That would be awesome if thats all it is. I should have gone into automotive rather than carpentry, my house doesn't give me as much trouble as vehicles have.
 
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Old 12-25-2014, 12:12 PM
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Top off the radiator for sure. Hopefully that's it.

But, make sure the hose from the cap to the recovery tank is clear. Can you blow some compressed air through it - gently? Then, replace your radiator cap. Use a name brand one - STANT or get it from Mopar. Lots of cheap caps are junk.

The cap allows the fluid to come back into the system as it cools.

This is from the 2001 FSM:

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begins coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion
 
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Old 12-25-2014, 12:44 PM
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I'll run some air through it, thank you. So according to the FSM, the bleeder screw is only removed during filling then replaced along with the cap before starting it. I have coolant at home but I doubt it enough to completely fill the system, I'll have to wait till tomorrow to pick up some more. I recently replaced the cap but it was a napa replacement so I'll grab one from the dealership when they open back up.
 


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