Hi all first post-

This was a roached 2wd V6 5 speed Dakota that ran. Using a 1990 LA318 and converted it from TBI to carb cause that's what I had. Once the Dak is converted to a carbed LA 318 with the Daks 5 speed it will underpin a 1950 Studebaker 2r5 pick up.

I'm having some problems
1. Oil pan on 318 is coming close to the cross member and hits it if I bring the engine down to near where i think it should be. The engine is from a 1990 Ram. It is a rear sump pan. But I noticed that the Magnum engines have a thinner rear sump in the gen 2 Dak to clear that cross member. I know the LA 318 was in the first gen Dak before they converted to Magnum in 92. Can't seem to find an oil pan for a 5.2 1991 Dakota though. If there is such a thing where can I get it and would it fit? Or I can cut and notch the current oil pan. Or I can mount the engine higher but the hood may not close and the U joint angle may be off. Ornotch the crossmemebr??

2. Engine mounts. Prob going to try to use the Magnum V6 mounts and make up a plate to meet the ears on the LA. Anyone done this before?

3. Fuel. Was planning on using the stock Dak fuel pump with a return style regulator down to a carb friendly 6 psi. Figured the lines are already there. Will I have to re- wire this fuel delivery to a keyed on position with new relays, or will this fuel pump still run with the formers engine harness removed?

Thanks so much in advance.



1950 Stude



318 sitting high with oil pan touching cross member. Engine is back all the way



Oil pan with mark where I may need to notch



Passenger sideLA meets near Dak motor mount

 

1) HiPoTek makes engine mounts to go from the Magnum frame-pin to the LA ears for this exact swap. I bet he has a bunch of other tips you could use too. http://stores.hi-potek.com/high-perf...rwd-1997-2003/

2) There's nothing special about the fuel system. The LA motor should have a mechanical fuel pump that you can run for carb. You can try to get the EFI 45 psi down to 6-8 psi with a return regulator if you insist to run the stock tank. I'll probably work ok but make you your regulator has a large return port, you'll be bypassing A TON of fuel.

3) I'm not sure what the best option is with the oil pan. HiPoTek might have an answer for you since he makes stuff for the LA/magnum retrofit.

 

Thanks! I emailed Richard at hi-Potek. I hope he gets back to me

I was able to jump the relay to the fuel pump and auto shut off and the pump turned on. But why won't the auto shut off power up with the key on? The engine harness is removed though so maybe it's not getting feedback through a sensor??

Would this be easier to just wire it up with a file pump relay kit from Holley or similar? Again trying to use what I have but I feel like each separate system depends on input from another system. May wind up chasing my tail

There is no fuel pump eccentric on this engine. That would have been the easiest way