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This is a conversion from the factory Saginaw "P" pump to the Saginaw "TC", or Type 2, pump. The pump is physically smaller, uses a sealed ball bearing instead of a brass bushing, and allows for a remote reservoir. They came on many Jeep engines and LS engines, in varying forms.
My buddy owns Steerco Performance/AGR Steering in Fort Worth. This isn't so much a plug for him as a quick chronicle of a research & development attempt.
The pumps on our trucks are called "Saginaw P Pumps". They use a bronze bushing to support the shaft, which is usually what causes a leaky mess. The pump itself is fairly small if you remove the tank, but it's still pretty sizable.
At his suggestion and my space requirement, I am converting to a GM / LS style "Saginaw Type 2 pump". It is MUCH smaller, is designed for either external or onboard tank, and uses a sealed roller bearing and coated vane pump to generate pressure. Mine is set up for 1250 PSI at 3 GPM with a .120 oriface as I recall. A 10AN fitting is brazed onto the pump for the reservoir supply.
I'll be using a Jeep JK power steering tank PN 52126151AG and suction hose PN 68078355AF. The suction hose is 3/4", which requires a 10 to 12AN expander fitting, and a 12AN PUSH-LOK fitting. I cut the hose about in half for the V6 and used a straight fitting. A V8 may need to use the whole hose and/or a 45 degree fitting. I am using a 6K602 belt, however, a 6K615 or similar would probably fit better, as the tensioner is in all the way. Also, this is with bypassing the center idler pulley- several D/D owners have bypassed this pulley with no ill effects on the charging system, despite the low amount of belt wrap on the alternator.
The mounting ears are on 80mm centers, as it is designed to mount to an LS cylinder head with 5/16 bolts. Pulley I am using is 5.25", same as my underdrive crank pulley. GM PN is 10166383ABW , application unknown. If you have the stock 7.5" pulley, you will want a bigger pump pulley- the pump likes to be driven 1:1 with the crank most of the time, maybe a slight overdrive. The bearing is much more tolerant to RPM than the bronze bushing.
You're doing a tremendous amount of custom work hope it all works out for you.
You may want to try and beef up the pump mount more if possible it looks like it may flex some a wider strap may help. On my 2.5 the front has a strap like your mount but its also bolted into the intake manifold on the back side. The serpentine belt is under tremendous amounts of power and pull especial with the powerful V8 your building it could rip that pump off and spit it out.
Possibly make a mounting strap for the front of the pump like in the pic I include.
You're doing a tremendous amount of custom work hope it all works out for you.
You may want to try and beef up the pump mount more if possible it looks like it may flex some a wider strap may help. On my 2.5 the front has a strap like your mount but its also bolted into the intake manifold on the back side. The serpentine belt is under tremendous amounts of power and pull especial with the powerful V8 your building it could rip that pump off and spit it out.
I've thought the same thing, but the accessory bracket limits the material width. I'm hoping that the lower strap, being horizontal, helps with the anti-torsion. I could probably weld it, but there's too many variables until i get it on the V8, I need wiggle room if the mounting bosses in the head aren't the same.
And looking back on these photos, i need to make sure both head bolts have spacers on them. Pretty sure i added the top one, but need to double check.
Also, went to a 605 belt and tension is happy and clears the water pump motor.
No whining at all, took about 3/4 quart to fill and bleed it. It feels good with the wheels in the air, no hard spots at all. I didn't try to turn them on the ground.
The pump does show signs of trying to move inward when I rap the throttle, so it definitely needs a front strap of some sort. It's very minimal, plus it's still missing the top spacer (for all i know, the bottom might not be tight either!). Alas, it does at least run.
No whining at all, took about 3/4 quart to fill and bleed it. It feels good with the wheels in the air, no hard spots at all. I didn't try to turn them on the ground.
The pump does show signs of trying to move inward when I rap the throttle, so it definitely needs a front strap of some sort. It's very minimal, plus it's still missing the top spacer (for all i know, the bottom might not be tight either!). Alas, it does at least run.
This is cool, nice build. So the basic reason for this swap is to eliminate internal leakage, which essentially retains a strong reliable pressure?
Also, I may be late to game, but what is going on with the idler pulley and the crankshaft pulley, an extra altenator or generator? Shoot me a link to that build.
This is cool, nice build. So the basic reason for this swap is to eliminate internal leakage, which essentially retains a strong reliable pressure?
Also, I may be late to game, but what is going on with the idler pulley and the crankshaft pulley, an extra altenator or generator? Shoot me a link to that build.
The saginaw P pump uses a bronze pushing on the pump shaft, which eventually wears down and allows fluid to leak around it, the bracket sticks out like a sore thumb, and it's just not a clean setup. The TC pump is small enough to be mounted down low, and all the factory lines will connect with little interfacing (I only had to extend the return line to the reservoir). The only hitch is interfacing the Jeep JK 3/4" vacuum hose to the 10AN fitting on the pump, I just used an expander and push-lok fitting.
The TC pump is capable of being driven to around 10,000 RPM reliable with the sealed pressed on bearing, is used on many racecars with power steering, and is frequently used to drive hydraulic ram steering systems.
I went this route because I need all the space I can get between the driver valve cover and the driver fender, to fit the boost package.
I bypassed the center idler pulley out of convenience, and the water pump is driven by the Moroso Electric Motor. This is so that i can run the water pump with the engine off between rounds.
Once I swap the V8 in, i'll be going to a completely off-engine water pump (see my build thread) to free up that much more room, as well as moving the radiator 2" forward.
12-22-2016, 05:20 PM
Power Steering Pump Conversion
