2002 Dakota CTM problem and fix for everyone's knowledge
#41
Ok everyone, this works. Here was my setup.
2001 Durango SLT, 4.7, 177,000 miles.
Symptoms were right after I replaced the front drive shaft.
Started with security light, then migrated to 4WD service light, sometimes both, but eventually always 4WD service.
Lights on 4WD selector **** would not light.
Occasionally after 5 or more minutes of driving, the door would lock and everything would appear normal. This decreased over a short period of time to no drive locks actuating and 4WD service constantly on.
Went to a junkyard today. There are 4 CTM modules to choose from and I'm sorry I didn't get the range. For mine, which ended in G, as long as the ending letter was G or later in the alphabet, I'd be good to go. Should be able to find on 01-04 durango a, not sure about Dakota cross.
Got home, disco battery and swapped modules. Problem cleared up, 4WD works great, no security lights and as expected, the downside is my key fobs don't work so it's manual open which I'd gladly trade for no idiot lights and functioning 4WD. I got the box for $100 , 30 day return rights. They pulled it and searched for the right serial number range.
Opened and inspected the CTM I pulled and no obvious broken traces, corrosion or damage. Hooked it back up to the truck and immediately 4WD service light came on and no selector lights.
It would be truly wonderful if, along with this now being fixed, the Forty Niners would've won the Super Bowl, but you half to play two halts in a game, not one. I'm happy the damned truck is back on the road again though!
2001 Durango SLT, 4.7, 177,000 miles.
Symptoms were right after I replaced the front drive shaft.
Started with security light, then migrated to 4WD service light, sometimes both, but eventually always 4WD service.
Lights on 4WD selector **** would not light.
Occasionally after 5 or more minutes of driving, the door would lock and everything would appear normal. This decreased over a short period of time to no drive locks actuating and 4WD service constantly on.
Went to a junkyard today. There are 4 CTM modules to choose from and I'm sorry I didn't get the range. For mine, which ended in G, as long as the ending letter was G or later in the alphabet, I'd be good to go. Should be able to find on 01-04 durango a, not sure about Dakota cross.
Got home, disco battery and swapped modules. Problem cleared up, 4WD works great, no security lights and as expected, the downside is my key fobs don't work so it's manual open which I'd gladly trade for no idiot lights and functioning 4WD. I got the box for $100 , 30 day return rights. They pulled it and searched for the right serial number range.
Opened and inspected the CTM I pulled and no obvious broken traces, corrosion or damage. Hooked it back up to the truck and immediately 4WD service light came on and no selector lights.
It would be truly wonderful if, along with this now being fixed, the Forty Niners would've won the Super Bowl, but you half to play two halts in a game, not one. I'm happy the damned truck is back on the road again though!
#42
CTM Problem and grounds?
Thanks for the helpful posts. I am new to the Forum.
I have a 97 Dakota with 3.9l 6 cyl.
I had the power steering pump replaced and my private mechanic found a ground near the pump that needed fixing. After that I had a left rear tail light that the ground was bad. (Turn signal flashes very fast) I fixed that with a new ground wire to the body for that light assembly.
I now have a problem with the interior lights not turning off, overhead and under dash plus the key surrond. I think there also may be a problem with the headlights ON bell not dinging as it should.
I will be trying all the things mentioned in the threads posted here as soon as the weather gets better. I've just pulled the bulbs to not run down the battery.
Thanks, Dave
AUGUST 25, 2013: since my last post i got a CTM at a junkyard. Installed it today and so far so good. i picked a 2nd generation dakota with power door locks as mine is. As seen above my (only prob. was the interior lights. The # on mine was 378AD and the new one is 363AE.
Two of the interior lights that i have tested are turning off as they should.
My key fob is work OK with the door locks.
First went to a pick n pay yard and they quoted $7 for it but they didnt have any that looked righ. Then went to a small yard in NY state and got it for 35$.
Thanks to everyone for there posts that were very helpful!!!!!!
dAVE
I have a 97 Dakota with 3.9l 6 cyl.
I had the power steering pump replaced and my private mechanic found a ground near the pump that needed fixing. After that I had a left rear tail light that the ground was bad. (Turn signal flashes very fast) I fixed that with a new ground wire to the body for that light assembly.
I now have a problem with the interior lights not turning off, overhead and under dash plus the key surrond. I think there also may be a problem with the headlights ON bell not dinging as it should.
I will be trying all the things mentioned in the threads posted here as soon as the weather gets better. I've just pulled the bulbs to not run down the battery.
Thanks, Dave
AUGUST 25, 2013: since my last post i got a CTM at a junkyard. Installed it today and so far so good. i picked a 2nd generation dakota with power door locks as mine is. As seen above my (only prob. was the interior lights. The # on mine was 378AD and the new one is 363AE.
Two of the interior lights that i have tested are turning off as they should.
My key fob is work OK with the door locks.
First went to a pick n pay yard and they quoted $7 for it but they didnt have any that looked righ. Then went to a small yard in NY state and got it for 35$.
Thanks to everyone for there posts that were very helpful!!!!!!
dAVE
Last edited by dave185; 08-25-2013 at 03:48 PM. Reason: uPDATE TO MY PROBLEM
#43
My final fix on this issue
I had similar issues (left headlight, 4x4, no interior lights, etc).
Mine was primarily the left headlight. I switched the CTM and was good for about 6 months. At first on both units I could wiggle the lowest CTM cable and get things to work but then even that failed.
Finally I realized the lowest plug (white one) was very corroded. My fix was $25 as i went to junkyard and paid $25 to cut the first 12in of cable and the plug off a Dakota that had no corroded plug.
Spliced it in, carefully matching wire positions and now I am good to go. Tempted to try original CTM back in to get my keyfob to work but that was the unit the corroded my original plug.
Anyways... like I have read in many posts... check the plug to make sure water didn't leak in this area and cause corrosion.
Mine was primarily the left headlight. I switched the CTM and was good for about 6 months. At first on both units I could wiggle the lowest CTM cable and get things to work but then even that failed.
Finally I realized the lowest plug (white one) was very corroded. My fix was $25 as i went to junkyard and paid $25 to cut the first 12in of cable and the plug off a Dakota that had no corroded plug.
Spliced it in, carefully matching wire positions and now I am good to go. Tempted to try original CTM back in to get my keyfob to work but that was the unit the corroded my original plug.
Anyways... like I have read in many posts... check the plug to make sure water didn't leak in this area and cause corrosion.
#44
Thank you
Thank you rgrsynclair for your post, I replaced my headlight bulbs with GE nighthawk platinum, not because the old ones where not working but because of the claim that they would give 90% better light. Upon replacement everything was fine for a day and then my drivers side stopped working, I then swapped the new bulb with the old one and it worked? I then put the new one back and it worked too. After a day it stopped working again. I tried the same thing again but this time nothing worked. After a lot of head scratching I came across rgrsynclair's #8 post and went and checked if there was any corrosion on the CTM, and yes there was, I too made a baking soda solution cleaned the connections sprayed with WD40 and now have working headlights
#45
CTM needed "reset" after replacing dome light lamp
My 2002 Dakota SXT lost all exterior, interior, instrument lights and chime after I replaced the dome light lamp - I probably plugged it in with the door open - so under 'power-on' condition. I spent some hours checking fuses then removing, dismantling, and testing the combo light switch/dome light/instrument dimmer control - (not fun to remove). When it seemed OK, I read thru this thread - and disconnected the battery + terminal for a few minutes. When I re-connected it, VIOLA! the lights all worked again and the chime sang again!
Apparently, the CTM was zapped into lockup by the surge or noise generated by the dome lamp circuit. Thanks for the info.
I'd blame this computer nonsense on the Daimler/Chrysler partnership, but I can't recall any similar issues with any of my Benzes. Computers are wonderful - if and when they work. All's well that ends well!
Apparently, the CTM was zapped into lockup by the surge or noise generated by the dome lamp circuit. Thanks for the info.
I'd blame this computer nonsense on the Daimler/Chrysler partnership, but I can't recall any similar issues with any of my Benzes. Computers are wonderful - if and when they work. All's well that ends well!
#46
I had the same symptoms with my 2001 Dakota Quad-Cab. Went on E-Bay and bought a used CTM with a warranty. 15 minutes to remove old unit and install new unit. Everything now works, but another problem showed up. As soon as I start engine, fasten seatbelt, put in drive and start moving the warning chime starts the slow cadence like a seatbelt is not fastened. The chime only sounds while the vehicle is in motion.
#47
Dakota electrical??????
EVERYONE on this forum has COMPLETLY HELPED ME! Our electrical ISSUES are ALL THE SAME, yet these trucks electrical have minds of their own! My Motor is ROCKING STRONG at 204261miles, (4.7 L 4-8)! THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCHHH for all of the INFO!!!
2001 Dakota Sport Club
2001 Dakota Sport Club
#49
The common reason I've read is corrosion and/or bad connections.
I had an S10 Blazer 4x4 that had a common issue (BAD GROUND) on the 4x4 Transfer case module. It was located in the passenger's side kick panel.
As we know, the floors do get a lot of wet feet and often times snow and road salt. This WILL cause corrosion on the grounds in any module located in any kick panel area !
CHECK all the grounds and connections BEFORE you go out blowing a ton of money and your time.
#50
Last edited by Durango 5.9 2002; 07-03-2022 at 04:17 PM.