2004 durango AWD wont start

[specializedcaraudio]

i have a customer with an 04' durango AWD that wont start. he called me up today and told me he was stranded in a parking lot in the next town over. so i went over there to check it out ( keep in mind its -20 with the wind chill in chicago today) i wanted to see exactly what it was doing before he decided to bring it to a shop, since i installed a remote starter a few months ago, i dont want to get blamed for the remote starter causing the problem. when you turn the key you can hear the starter clicking but its not engaging. the truck has about 40k miles on it, with no previous mechanical problems. has anyone heard of any recalls on these trucks with starter issues, and or electrical related starting issues? now, if i get the vehicle flatbedded to the shop, is it ok to move an AWD vehicle while it is in neutral? to get it in the shop. another note: i had the headlights turned on while i was holding the key in the start position, and the headlights weren't even dimming while i could hear the starter clicking, so it appears that the starter isn't even drawing any current while you crank it. I'm open for any and all feedback on this issue!

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[n8ech]

SCA:

Sounds like the starter has taken a crap.Possibbly the bendix or solenoid. FYI: An 04 Durango with 40k on it should be covered under the 7/70 powertrain warranty as long as owner is #1 or #2.

You can move the rig with the tranny in neutral, just don't tow it. Chrysler recommends that their AWD D's be flatbedded. That would be my choice as well.

Don

[Parts/Service]

ORIGINAL: n8ech

SCA:

Sounds like the starter has taken a crap.Possibbly the bendix or solenoid. FYI: An 04 Durango with 40k on it should be covered under the 7/70 powertrain warranty as long as owner is #1 or #2.

Don

There are no starter related recalls, but it does sound like the starter is bad...As for the 7/70 warranty covering it. That is not true. The starter is only covered under the original 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. The 7/70 is a powertrain warranty. It does not cover everything under the hood. It covers the engine and internal parts. Below is the list out of the warranty manual of what is covered under the 7/70

I. Parts Covered
The Powertrain Warranty covers these parts and
components of your vehicle's powertrain:

Gasoline Engine: cylinder block and all internal
parts; cylinder head assemblies; timing case, timing
chain, timing belt, gears and sprockets; vibration
damper; oil pump; water pump and housing; intake
and exhaust manifolds; flywheel with starter ring
gear; core plugs; valve covers; oil pan; turbocharger
housing and internal parts; turbocharger wastegate
actuator; supercharger; serpentine belt tensioner;
seals and gaskets for listed components only.

Transmission: transmission case and all internal parts;
torque converter; drive/flex plate; transmission range
switch; transmission control module; bell housing; oil
pan; seals and gaskets for listed components only.
NOTE: MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH
PARTS ARE NOT COVERED AT ANY TIME.

Front Wheel Drive: transaxle case and all internal
parts; axle shaft assemblies; constant velocity joints
and boots; differential cover; oil pan; transaxle speed
sensors; transaxle solenoid assembly; PRNDL position
switch; transaxle electronic controller; torque converter;
seals and gaskets for listed components only.
NOTE: MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH
PARTS ARE NOT COVERED AT ANY TIME

All Wheel Drive (AWD): power transfer unit and all
internal parts; viscous coupler; axle housing and all
internal parts; constant velocity joints and boots;
driveshaft and axle shaft assemblies; differential
carrier assembly and all internal parts; output ball
bearing; output flange; end cover; overrunning
clutch; vacuum motor; torque tube; pinion spacer and
shim, seals and gaskets for listed components only.
Rear WheelDrive: rear axle housing and all internal
parts; axle shafts; axle shaft bearings; drive shaft
assemblies; drive shaft center bearings; universal
joints and yokes; seals and gaskets for listed
components only.

Four-Wheel Drive (4X4): transfer case and all
internal parts; transfer case control module and shift
mode motor assembly; axle housing and all internal
parts; axle shafts; axle shaft bearings; drive shafts
assemblies (front and rear); drive shaft center
bearings; universal joints and yokes; disconnect
housing assembly; seals and gaskets for the listed
components only.

[n8ech]

SCA:

Thanks for the correction. Maybe what I was thinking is that the starter SHOULD be covered cause without it the powertrain does not work!!!! But alas, who am I????

Starters anymore are one of those items that seem to last at least 100k or more. My 01 has its OEM unit at 69k still going strong.

Don

[eflyguy]

I've got this exact same problem. The lights don't dim, it just clicks rapidly (like 3-4 times a second while you hold the key in start). Is it the starter or the solenoid? Would the starter not engaging cause the solenoid to repeatedly fire?

It's currently parked in a very awkward spot at a barn, I can't imagine the cost of getting it pulled out of there. I think the solenoid would be an easy fix where it's sitting. It's mounted right next to the battery under the hood, right?
Thx,
..a

[IndyDurango]

click click click... dead/dying battery. Check the terminal connections. In fact, take off, clean and put back on TIGHT.

IndyD

[eflyguy]

The lights did not dim while we tried to start it, and I had it jumped over to my truck (which was also running). I'm pretty sure that's not the battery?
..a

[IndyDurango]

See above.

Check the terminal connections. In fact, take off, clean and put back on TIGHT.

[eflyguy]

Sincere thank-you, Indy. It was indeed the battery (but not the terminals - they were tight and clean). Dropped in a spare deep-cycle 500CCA I had in the basement and it fired right up. Interesting that it wouldn't start while being jumped from an F350 using 4ga cables! The old battery must have been dragging down the voltage quite a bit.

This is not the first time this had happened. I forgot it was the battery - it had been changed out under warranty the first time, 2 years ago. Seems the MOPAR batteries are only good for 24mos. Bought a new everstart @ WalMart for $75..

I got laid off yesterday after 11yrs. The last thing I needed was a huge tow and repair bill. I was home starting on a 6-pack when the wife called and said it was dead.
..a

[IndyDurango]

Very happy to help. It's so hard to remote diagnose but I was fairly certain it was the battery. Glad that was it.

Lights working do not mean under load the battery is good (as you found out.)

Swapping the battery as it sat certainly was better than the tow. Ds are overly sensitive to dead batteries.

Good luck on the job front. With a fresh battery, the D will get you back and forth to where you need to go.

IndyD