2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

2004 durango 4.7 #4 cyl misfire.

  #11  
Old 02-01-2009, 12:57 PM
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Also try running the engine in the dark, look underhood for arcing or sparks. Many times an arcing wire on the coil pack or grounding to the engine is confused for valvetrain tick. You can also use a spray bottle and water to find a short in ignition wiring.
 
  #12  
Old 02-05-2009, 08:56 PM
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Take the valve cover off, you have a rocker arm that fell off and you are riding on 7 cylinders. This happened to me last month i have a ram 1500 with 174k same 4.7 engine. Done deal. Stop shotgun troubleshooting and blowing money on crap that wont fit your problem.

I went through all the same spark plug, coil crap with no positive response only mo wasted $$. I even checked the plugs after i replaced them and #3 was all black it's because the value is not working. So this sounds very familiar.

Now you need to get a miller tool #8387 or 8516 (check by calling miller) about 60 bucks from Miller direct, all others mark it up 30%. You need this to help you compress the spring and insert the rocker arm. The shop will charge you $650 to do this and that's the usual rip off dealer. Dont buy till you verify. (sounds cool)

My suggestion is to replace the rocker arm, and lash adjuster at the same time rocker arm is $14, lash $6. I compared the old rocker arm with the new one and the bearing rolls easy new, but slugish on the old one.

You also need a haynes manual or equivalent. You can do this your self in about 2-1/2 hours or get your GF to do it.

But the questions is what is the root cause for this to happen? I have read several threads, talked to experts, etc. Don't know the answer.

My theory is that oil varnish builds up even if you get oil changed every 3k miles. This sticky build up is too much for the engineer to overcome in their less than stellar robust design. Several mechanics swear to BG MOA additive to help reduce the varnish. Sounds like Im pissed? You bet I am, I never had these issues with my 69 mustang, seemed simple back then, but now it's all different.
 
  #13  
Old 02-06-2009, 07:16 AM
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also if the gf uses cheap gas (epa minimum detergent), olefins in cheap gas will create varnish that sticks to the valve stems. olefins get gummy when cold and can stick a valve right now, causing rocker arm pop off?

just another possible avenue.
 
  #14  
Old 02-08-2009, 07:15 PM
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Hey guys, Sorry I've been off line for a while here.

Just wanted to check back in and let you know the final story and say Thank You To you.

It was in fact the rocker arm that came out of place. It was laying on the bottom of the valve area right next to the valve. It was in perfect condition, and did not touch any other moving parts thank God. I was able to pop it back in and all is perfect.

Thanks again all, save me a ton of money and frusteration.

Awesome site!!
 
  #15  
Old 02-09-2009, 08:10 AM
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good, glad it was cheap! hopefully it doesn't repeat!
 
  #16  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:40 PM
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Good to hear you fixed it.

I never heard of such a thing happening, still wondering what causes this, as it seems somewhat common.

Good Luck
 
  #17  
Old 02-15-2009, 07:34 PM
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I guess Im just a stickler for pain but I had to follow up more on this issue.

You and I are not the only ones that have rocker arms falling off. Go to goggle and search on 'rocker arms and 4.7 dodge', and you will have enough to read. Lots of cases out there, each has a story, solution.

I try to find root cause to most problems and since this occurance happened to me 2000 miles ago the first time I need to try to fix this once and for all.

My belief its a combination of bad PM (on my part) and the gas and oil we get into our trucks and cars isnt what is was or should be. I buy cheep, cheep gas, and at recent $4/g who knows what you got. I also dont change the plugs on schedule, but I do frequent oil changes (yeah).

That combo (weak spark, bad gas) I think causes poor burn at compression and a result of a fair share of carbon on the valves.
The carbon build up might cause the valve not to close all the way and the clearance holding the rocker arm in place was violated that caused the arm to fall off.

True- the oil does it's damage slowing by leaving varnish, even if you change regularly like I did every 3K miles.

Consider getting a Fuel Induction kit and burn off the carbon. You can get products like Seafoam and suck it through a vaccumm hose to get to the engine while running. I did this and man was there a lot of blue smoke, im told it was the carbon deposits I hope it was.

Consider adding a fuel additive regularly like Lucas.

I hope to not have this problem again.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2009, 04:06 PM
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carbon build up is also one of the leading canidates! the 3.7L/4.7L build up alot of carbon. i combat it using top tier gas (shell v-power). The v-power has 5 times the minimum epa required detergent. and i seafoam once a year! plus i run the techron additive at every oil change.

keep in mind the epa minimum required detergency (ie: cheap gas) is not enough to prevent carbon build up in some motors.

the cheap gas have olefins which contibute to the carbon problem.

it doesn't take much carbon on a valve stem to temporarily stick a valve and throw a rocker. infact that is one of the tests for top tier gas! the test involves cold starts with alot of different motors. if any valves stick on cold start up the gasoline flunks the test.

but... alot of different things can cause these rockers to be thrown!

1. carbon build up
2. sludge build up
3. sunken valve seats
4. weak valve spring
5. bent valve
6. combination of any of the above

what is the most common cause?

i would think sludge build up from infrequent oil changes and cheap oil
and carbon build up from cheap gas, short trips, and lack of using fuel system cleaner atleast once a year.
 

Last edited by x99j; 02-17-2009 at 04:08 PM.
  #19  
Old 02-21-2009, 07:23 PM
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Think your right Xj, think your right.
 
  #20  
Old 10-26-2009, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GoldRam
Now you need to get a miller tool #8387 or 8516 (check by calling miller) about 60 bucks from Miller direct, all others mark it up 30%. You need this to help you compress the spring and insert the rocker arm. The shop will charge you $650 to do this and that's the usual rip off dealer. Dont buy till you verify. (sounds cool)
Looks like they changed the part number. The part number is now Miller 8516A (supersedes the 8516) for the pre-2004 4.7L engines.

I have a Durango 4.7 that has the same symptom. It had been tapping for the longest time. One day recently I cranked it, it started and I immediately heard a strange noise and then I had to limp home on 7 cylinders. #4 plug was oily when it got back into the driveway. Weather's been too crappy to pull the valve cover, but I'm betting that it's exactly this problem. I've resigned myself now to pulling the valve cover in the dark so I can get this thing back on the road.

I'm still taking your advice and not buying it till I see the cam follower sitting there not doing anything.
 

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