I am in the middle of replacing the steering rack on the '06 Durango. When I took the old one out a certain amount of wiggling it made it slide out the right side. I have not been able to duplicate that wiggling to get the new one back in. Am I correct in trying to slide it in from the right side? The steering column hook up keeps getting hung up on the front drive shaft. Any tips would be appreciated, as would a stiff drink.

 

Doesn't the steering column slide up and down a bit, just like a drive shaft half shaft? So maybe the column 'outside sleve', whatever it is called, has slid down and consumed the wiggle room. Just a thought and I might be thinking of a Chevy.

 

Thanks for the response. The steering part that is causing the trouble is part of the new rack where the column u-joint attaches.

I wonder if I take the front propeller shaft loose at the front it would give me some room to slide it in.

Dang thing slid out with some wiggling, but I can't seem to get it back in. Arms are getting tired waving it around!

 

Anybody replace one of these in a Durango?

I have removed the front cross brace to buy a little wiggle room and taken off the shock to allow the torsion bar to drop another inch or so.

It is still stubborn, and I'm getting worn out.

Thanks

 

I just disconnected the front of the prop shaft to try and get some more room to pivot the assembly around. None of this is mentioned in the shop manual, but that's been known to happen before. I'll see if it works tomorrow, for now I am beat.

The shop manual instructions are crystal clear:

1. Install gear (7) to the vehicle and tighten mounting
nuts and bolts (4&6) to 258 N·m (190 ft. lbs.).

 

Is there any noticeable difference in the part? Maybe you have something extra on the new part. On the old rack did you have the wheels turned full one way or the other before you took it out? Maybe the new rack has to be in the same position as far as how the wheels were turned. Am I making sense?

 

Finally got it in. I had to deviate from the shop manual and videos I had watched and turn the R&P to the extreme right with a wrench, then put it back to center to match the tied off steering wheel when it fell into place. Slipped right in when I did that.

Thanks AZ for your comments. Hope you stay dry today with the Tropical Storm hitting your area. (I'm assuming you live in Arizona!)

 

Jinx,

I am considering replacing my steering gear because it comes with new inner tie rods versus replacing both inner and outer tie rods and leaving old rack in. Costs about $100 more but I'd have "new" gear plus new tie rods versus old gear and new tie rods. Sounds like it is about the same work to just change out the whole gear and add new outer tie rods.

my questions: Did you even need to jack up the vehicle? Seems like the work could be done without jacking. Also, you did not have the cross member removed to start; would I be able to leave the cross member in knowing I'd have to turn the gear to the right and back to center like you did?

I can jack the vehicle up (even though I don't want to) but I'm not sure I can get the cross member bolts back to 190 ft/lbs. How did you get those torqued back on; I'm visualizing very little room for a long torque wrench?