2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

2008 Dodge Durango Brake Bleed Problem

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Old 07-21-2016, 10:54 PM
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Default 2008 Dodge Durango Brake Bleed Problem

I replaced both caliper's on the front, bleed all 4 and even reverse bled all 4 caliper's. Even replaced MC & bled this unit both way's, 100% fluid.

Now when the engine is off the pedal is rock hard within 3 pumps.

Turn on the engine and the pedal is soft, goes all the way to the floor, the brake light comes on after the 1st pedal pump and stay's on. Eventually pedal will start to harden some but still very soft and the brake light stay's on the whole time.

The question I have is will I need to have the ABS scanned / bled with a scan tool such as a Snap On or Dealer in order for the ABS to be thoroughly bled of all air & my brake's to work correctly?

If yes then why? Never had this problem on other vehicles.
 
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Old 07-22-2016, 09:25 AM
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Make sure the bleed valves aren't on the bottom of the calipers.
 
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TNtech
Make sure the bleed valves aren't on the bottom of the calipers.
Thank You. I had the bleeder valves on the front in the down position instead of up.

Brake's are functional but my "Brake" light is still on.

Both of my front Caliper's didn't self-destruct until I had my rear differential replaced.

Immediately after getting the Durango back both of my front my caliper's started grinding & were destroyed by the end-of-the following day.

The mechanic who did the differential swears there is no way in hell that my front caliper's were ruined because of him replacing my rear differential even though he admitted he took my front off when he inspected my front-end out.

Now is there any possibility that the front caliper's basically self-destructed because of the rear caliper & brake system being put on incorrectly during the rear differential replacement?

Any possibility during the rear differential replacement he disconnected the brake line from the caliper's & switched them by accident & put them on the opposite side???

Durango after test driving it still feel's like there is a "Drag / resistance." and some squeaky / squeal sound.
 

Last edited by Jeremy Weiland; 07-22-2016 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Weiland
Thank You. I had the bleeder valves on the front in the down position instead of up.

Brake's are functional but my "Brake" light is still on.

Both of my front Caliper's didn't self-destruct until I had my rear differential replaced.

Immediately after getting the Durango back both of my front my caliper's started grinding & were destroyed by the end-of-the following day.

The mechanic who did the differential swears there is no way in hell that my front caliper's were ruined because of him replacing my rear differential even though he admitted he took my front off when he inspected my front-end out.

Now is there any possibility that the front caliper's basically self-destructed because of the rear caliper & brake system being put on incorrectly during the rear differential replacement?

Any possibility during the rear differential replacement he disconnected the brake line from the caliper's & switched them by accident & put them on the opposite side???

Durango after test driving it still feel's like there is a "Drag / resistance." and some squeaky / squeal sound.


I have no idea what someone else did to your car, but I know switching your caliper back to the correct side will fix your bleeding issue hehe
 
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:00 AM
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I was asking if the rear brake's that were put back on during the differential replacement by my mechanic providing it was done incorectly could have caused the front caliper's to freeze up?

Same with the brake light still being on after replacement of the front caliper's, rotor's, and brake pads?

My last question is the correct position on the bleeder valve on the rear caliper is also located in the upper, 3/4 up the back of the caliper?

The bleeder valve location on the rear vs the front are different even in the up position.
 



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