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Synthetic Oil..

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2004, 09:34 PM
bigpav7 bigpav7 is offline
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Default Synthetic Oil..

hey to everyone.. just bought a Durango with 85K miles. 4.7L engine. my question is, can i switch to Mobil 1 at this kind of mileage?? With all this talk about Oil sludge, Id like to get some extra protection. Or am i going to get problems (leaks and such) from switching to synthetic oil at this mileage?

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  #2  
Old 08-08-2004, 10:24 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

You can switch to synthetic at any point. Just make sure the engine doesn't have any oil leaks already....paying $4+ for a quart of oil in a leaky engine can get expensive!
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2004, 03:48 AM
chrisandclauida2 chrisandclauida2 is offline
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

if your worried about oil sludge drop the pan.see if the pick up is starting to clog if not ur ok.at this mileage it will be starting to clog already
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:01 AM
bigpav7 bigpav7 is offline
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

Hey, thanx for the replies. Quick question, how hard is it to remove the oil pan on the 4.7?? is there some sort of a How To anywhere I can look at??
Thanx again
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:12 AM
rockadaous rockadaous is offline
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

you can also run a flush for 2 minutes if your worried about sludge. that's what I did prior to running mobil 1

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Old 08-10-2004, 06:36 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

Using an engine oil "cleaner" such as Motor Flush (WalMart, auto parts stores) is a cheap and effective way to keep sludge from building up in any engine. I put in a quart minutes before changing oil (do not drive with the oil diluted) and let the extra detergent additives and kerosene type disolving agents work their magic. I let the engine idle and give it some gas (not over-rev) a few times during about 5 minutes. Dump it out with the old oil; fill with new and replace the filter.

Doing this every third or fourth oil change will keep an engine very clean internally if the oil is changed regularly. It may be unnecessay if you use good oil and change it and the filter every 3-5,000 miles. You get sludge primarily from leaving old oil in the engine too long.

If you have an older, abused engine with deposits behind the rings and in other places that are helping to form necessary seals, using a high detergent cleaner may reduce those deposits and actually increase oil consumption and wear. CB3
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Old 08-10-2004, 07:29 PM
jhnrckr jhnrckr is offline
 
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

I would be very careful with those motor flushes, you will not get all of the solvent out by dropping the oil from the pan only once. There is a good amount of oil/solvent that will stay up in the lifter valley and a few other nooks and crannys that will mix with and dilute the fresh oil you put in. If you are going to use it I would buy a bunch of cheap oil and do at least one oil change after the flush (run it for 15 minutes or until the water temp has reached its peak and held there for about 5 minutes) drop the cheap oil and put in the good stuff. The flush is hard on seals and gaskets and if you have leaks they might get worse. A good quality motor oil has enough detergent in it to break up sludge, just use a good brand and change it when it starts to look dirty. I would stick a flashlight in the oil fill and look around the inside of the valve cover for signs of sludge, if you don't see any then I would not procede with the flush.
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:25 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

I mostly agree with the previous post.

Possible exception to the post is that the amount of oil-diluted additive left in the engine after a flush. It is minimal and will basically serve to boost additive properties of new oil. The dilution of the additive is about 5:1 considering a normal 5 qt oil capacity and the addition of one quart cleaner (192 ounces total). If 5% of that six quarts is left in the engine (generous, but 10 ounces), then when 5 new quarts (160 ounces) are added, the dilution comes up to 1/17th of the total volume.

The real point is, good oil changed at proper intervals should not produce much sludge even over time. Sludge is an indication of oil that has broken down and remained in the engine too long. CB3
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:41 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

I agree with the concern with the use of the flushes, regular use of synthetic oil, either Mobil 1 or Amsoil will prevent the need for such drastic measures...
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:48 PM
bigpav7 bigpav7 is offline
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

got an update on the issue. I glanced under the car and saw that dropping the oil pan would not be as easy as i thought, so we took the car to a mechanic. I bought a bottle of oil flush and was going to drop it into the engine and then drop and wash the oil pan. Once we got to the shop, the mechanic took off the oil cap and looked inside. The inside of the cap and everything around the area was covered in sludgy/greasy sort of a mix. I assume this was the infamous oil sludge. The mechanic replied that it's too late for a flush.. His words were "I doubt if the oil was changed more than once in this engine" (which could be true since the air filter I took out of the car looked black from all the dirt)... He said that at this point the valves were covered in this crap and running Motor Flush through the engine would only dislodge it all and make it fall inside making things even worse. He mentioned that the only way out of the situation was to perform a bunch of frequent (1,000 mile) oil changes. That should clean the sludge out..
At this point I dont know what to do. I can follow his advise and change the oil every few weeks for a couple of months.. (Mobil 1, to clean better).. Or should I insist on him running the flush through the engine and then dropping the oil pan and changing the oil???We just bought the car and really want to keep it, but the money to have to get a new engine simply isnt there..... Man, Id love to be able to rip the head off the idiot who had this car before....
Any advice???
Thanks to everyone...
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2004, 04:29 PM
CB3 CB3 is offline
 
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

Now that the situation is clear--you are not preventing sludge buildup but dealing with lots of it--the next question is, how many miles are on this abused engine?

The oil has not been doing its job of reducing friction, cleaning and cooling, but for how long? If the engine has 30,000 miles on it, the damage will be less than if it has 60,000 miles on it. If you have high mileage in this condition, the oil cleaner may open up wounds in the engine that could actually cause it to fail sooner.

I believe the cleaner would be a good option if the engine does not have very high mileage and no other indicated problems, such as overheating or low compression. I would change the oil filter before adding the cleaner, and then again afterwards. The cleaner will help dissolve the sludge and turn it into a more liquid form to get it out of the engine. That is exactly what you need to do. With this kind of mess, you may want to run your engine about 10 minutes instead of five to let the cleaner work better on the sludge.

If there is this kind of sludge, then there are also likely real tough deposits, and one use of the cleaner will not do much to get rid of them unless you leave it in a long time (over night), then run the engine a little to circulate the cleaner and then dump it.

An average detergent oil is not set up to dissolve and dislodge sludge. The additives are meant to prevent sludge buildup, but they will be slow to remove it. You want it out soon? Use more than one application of cleaner, but do put oil in between applications, run it for 1,000 miles, and then check carefully to see when you don't need the cleaner any more. Do a number of compression checks and record the results for each cylinder to see what effect the cleaner is having. Always change the filter.

I would not use expensive synthetics if you are just going to dump them out every thousand miles for the few months. CB3
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Old 08-13-2004, 05:00 AM
dodgemech dodgemech is offline
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

STOP-----
you are dealing with a 4.7 correct, all that sludging looking build up in the filler cap is normal for any well cared for engine. The early engines did not get the condensation trap under the cap so it "looks" like lots of sludge or even a blown head gasket. It is totally normal and the rest of the inside of the engine is probably fine. If you really want to know-pull a valve cover, it only takes 20 minutes or so.
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Old 08-13-2004, 02:00 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

I am close to needing my transmission fluid changed! Any type of fluid recommendations?
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Old 08-13-2004, 05:49 PM
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Default RE: Synthetic Oil..

Also, as my 00 R/T has full time AWD, I get that disgusting bell bang everytime I shift to reverse. Also, get the bang when you are cruising and then let go of the gas pedal and the tranny disengages sometimes. Dealer says normal. I remember my Toyota does the bang too sometimes when I put the truck in gear if it is in 4WD mode. I wonder if this bang is coming from the transfer case rather than the tranny? I remember seeing a post either in this dodgeforum site or automotiveforums site that a user recommended using a special type of tranny fluid. Expensive, but will quiet the bangs and smooths out the shifts. Anyone recall that post and know what good tranny fluid to use? I don't mind having to buy the expensive fluid if this will quiet down that banging!!
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Old 08-13-2004, 05:49 PM
 
 
 
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